Diving in Antarctica

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Tomeck

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
1,546
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Location
Switzerland
# of dives
500 - 999
Before Antarctica

At the time, I was a child, there were not a portable, nor of Internet, and very few images on the television news. The television news of afternoon existed and I saw my grandfather who never missed them by need for information during my holidays at my grandparents. In 1982, it spoke about the war of the Falklands between Argentina and Great Britain; it did not have almost any image on the news. The technology of communication was so old and one did not hope to go to Antarctica.

I was at the elementary school and I put questions for the first time about Antarctica with a teacher. He answered me that in Antarctica, there are ice and ground, and in the North Pole, there is only ice.

In 1992, I was with the training course of the chemistry laboratory at the University of Neuchâtel, a student told me that he knew somebody who went to Antarctica for scientific research, and he found that he has much chance to go to the inaccessible continent. I never believed a day; I will go to Antarctica.

During ten years, I did not take with serious for Antarctica. After my studies of chemical engineer, I watched a French emission in TV, it told that an American who sought a place for cruising in Antarctica in Ushuaia and waited three weeks to find a place better gone. There was an article of the French newspaper Le Monde about the voyages in Antarctica, I started to interest me and I consulted sites of Internet, then I found the very effective American agency. An agency for the Antarctic in Switzerland did not exist yet.


Antarctica in 2004

At the time, I was not scuba diver and I did not know that one could dive in Antarctica, I reserved just in time a last place in eight month of the voyage to an American agency. The voyage in Antarctica was particular and one did not hold as that one went to the tropical countries, the reservation very early was necessary and the total payment was to be in advance of more than three months. My first voyage in Antarctica was in Christmas 2004 and the places of plane were very complete, I also reserved just in time the plane tickets in April 2004.

During all the summer and all the autumn, I waited little patiently and I contacted and put often questions with American which organizes this voyage, he answered me quickly and effectively. I was in December and I left nervously to the airport Basle-Mulhouse.

When I arrived at the airport under the radiant sun, I had a nasty surprise, this flight domestic for the correspondence in Paris was cancelled due to very thick fog in Paris, but he proposed another flight, six hours to me later. Fortunately, I had reserved the flight domesticates twelve hours before the international flight, I was "parano". I waited always more nervously under the radiant sun and I wondered whether there were a strike because of fusion between Air France and KLM. Six hours later, it was OK to take a small plane and a very pleasant hostess accompanied me personally.

I arrived at the airport of Paris under the thick fog and I telephoned to my mother for saying that I am in Paris, it answered me that there is the strike. I was even more nervous, but I did not shout. I asked a guard, if there were the strike, he answered me with joke yes especially in the sector of French domestic flights. After several hours, I started to smell badly with the belly and breathing. When I could see the confirmation of the international flight for Buenos Aires, I bought a French magazine " Questions and Answers", I was never heated also pleasant in my life by reading it of the very enthralling answers.

The flight Paris - Buenos Aires lasted thirteen hours and half, it was my longer flight of my life. I was comfortably installed and the stewards were pleasant. I slept during the flight, then I awoke by seeing Colonia Suiza, founded by Swiss colonists in Uruguay, seen since 10 000 meters (33 000 feet) in height. By flying over Buenos Aires, I started to see a white megacity like a plate of computer, it was immense.

Arriving at the airport, I was surprised by calms and the courtesy of the Argentinians. By travelling by the taxi, I saw the landscape which did not resemble in Europe and I could not say to what, it resembled itself. The international airport was to 50 km of the downtown area and the course was long. I arrived in the pleasant hotel two stars of Hispanic style with the covered interior court, it cost 21 USD per night. It was the least expensive room ever seen at the time where Argentina was in bankruptcy.

I ate my first beef where Argentina is its great specialty. I walked for the first time in the town of Southern Hemisphere and I was mistaken in orientation with the sun, in spite of my abilities. I had forgotten that I was reversed between the south and north. I went to a Night Tango, it was the most beautiful music ever heard and the most beautiful dance ever seen.

I travelled by the plane for Ushuaia since the domestic airport very near to the downtown area. Arriving towards Ushuaia, I saw a little tundra as I was in Norway. It was romantic to see it.

I stayed several days in Ushuaia and I visited the disproportionate city by town planning and the national park. Even I was in Ushuaia, I were not sure of going to Antarctica, I requested several times from the port, if a ticket were known, they answered me “yes”. In spite of the answer was positive, I had always difficulty to believe.

After several days "of boredom" in Ushuaia, I entered the enclosed port nervously, then I directed towards the boat. Since on the boat, I felt sure that I would go to Antarctica. The boat left and I observed the general sight of Ushuaia with snow-covered tops.

After the crossing on the Channel Beagle, hardly left the channel, I felt the very icy wind and of the waves more agitated while entering the passage of Drake in the very dark twilight. I could not remain more than five minutes without special clothing. English asked me which bird, I answered him "albatross".

I awoke under agitation, I still smelled forms some and I arranged clothes in the cupboards, but after several minutes, I started to feel the sea sickness, then, I stopped and I had the breakfast. I wanted to vomit and I was not hungry, but I had not been able to vomit, because my belly was hollow. I went back to the bed to tranquillize me. I understood that I did not have to be concentrated and to remain quiet to avoid the sea sickness.

After two days of crossing to the passage of Drake under agitation, I saw for the first time Antarctica very white with much of picturesque icebergs. I walked for the first time to Antarctica on the Paulet Island where there were a thousand Adelie penguins, I heard cries like the concert and that smelt bad. It was very pleasant to see penguins which walked around me, they approached sometimes with a meter (3 feet) me.

After several days of uninterrupted visit, I entered Paradise Bay under the radiant sun, I were stupefied to never see the most spectacular landscape considering. I fixed myself to observe this landscape during several hours and I let myself burn with the face by the sunstroke. Then, I walked in bay by zigzagging icebergs to the zodiac.

In my first voyage, there was more half of passengers which was Finnish. I slept with a Finnish "pensioner" who spoke hardly English in the cabin. I celebrated Christmas in Antarctica.

Returning to Ushuaia, I had a small blow of depresses. I greeted several times at the passengers in the streets of Ushuaia. I had already visited the peninsula of Antarctica and I did not have an idea to return.

Two months later, I arrived at Maldives and I saw the lagoon which gave the impression to me which it was very cold remembering by the turquoise color of iceberg. Then, I passed my first certification of the scuba diver.
 
Preparation before Antarctica

At the beginning of 2007, after my disappointments in the life, I decided to go again to Antarctica with the diving. A Swiss agency existed and I could make in Switzerland. The reservation was more difficult than in 2004, there remained only one place in February 2007, I asked the same boat Grigoriy Mikheev as in 2004.

After my reservation, I was not talkative and I spoke very little to my friends about Antarctica. During almost a year, I had patience and I still did not speak, because I was not sure to be able to go again to Antarctica. The voyage in the Antarctic could never become ordinary, in spite of the increase in visitors. In the event of would cancellation, I be condemned to still wait one or two years, "it is now or never? ".

I had already all the equipment to get dressed under the polar wind in 2004 and the polar diving, because I often plunged to 4°C (40°F).

In summer 2007, I left to dive to Iceland, it was my first polar diving. I had much problem with the weight of the luggage for the plane, I were not well prepared. Fortunately, it was a flight charter and it was inexpensive for the surplus of the weight. With the experiment in Iceland, that enabled me to be useful for Antarctica.

November 23, 2007, one day before my birthday, I learned that a famous ship Explorer ran in Antarctica that put to me badly at ease. I wrote to my tour operator by e-mail, it answered me that it continued as usual.

In January 2008, my parents asked me where I will leave on holiday, I answered " Antarctica". They were surprised and they asked me why I did not say before, I answered them that I was not sure to be able to leave.

At the beginning of February 2008, I spent one weekend of diving under ice in Swiss Alps Lioson like a kind of small training. I still did not say to my friends of the club which I left for Antarctica.


Departure for Antarctica

February 21, 2008, I travelled by the Iberia planes from Geneva for Buenos Aires changing in Madrid. I had the right to a luggage up to 20 kg (44 lb) and a hand luggage up to 10 kg (22 lb). If I had an excess of one kilo (2 lb), I would pay 82 CHF (82 USD). It was enormous for me, I put many heavy things in my jacket to reduce the weight of the luggage. My BCD weighed 4 kg (8.8 lb) and it was too heavy, then I asked my club to lend to me a very simple BCD, used for the diving students, who weighed 2 kg (4.4 lb). My regulators weighed 2.5 kg (5.5 lb), then my mother kept them, during I did it check-in, after it brought them to me to put in my hand luggage which weighed more than 10 kg (22 lb). Before the control of x-ray, controller said to me that my hand luggage was too heavy, I were badly at ease, but it had badly with the back and asked me to carry, I were reassured a little. With the history of luggage, I was much stressed, I bought a French magazine "Questions and Answers" to calm me as in 2004.

I arrived at the airport of Madrid in the night. The control tower illuminated with lifts external of style hotel, it was picturesque. I waited five hours in transit before taking again a long-distance aircraft.
I found that the service of Iberia was less interesting than Air France, I could regret a little except if there were the strike. I was beside a Frenchwoman who said to me that it would prefer to take Iberia, because it found that there were too many strikes in the Air France.
 
Buenos Aires and Uruguay

With the arrival of airport, I travelled by a special bus to go to the hotel. I entered the same hotel as three years ago. The room cost 50 USD per night, that is to say a little more twice expensive than in 2004, that showed that Argentina was much better. I remained three days to visit Buenos Aires and Uruguay.

In the hotel room, I looked with the wash-hand basin, in which direction water turned, it turned in clockwise.

I took one day to visit a historical city Colonia in Uruguay from Buenos Aires by fast boat. In the fast boat, there was an unknown which sounded my mobile phone and I wondered whether it were my tour operator for Antarctica, because I gave to my number of the portable only my friends and one tour operator. With this ringing, I imagined that it could have a serious problem for Antarctica. During the way, I saw beautiful girl with the black hair and the particular nose.

With arrived on Colonia, I decided to leave immediately by bus to Colonia Suzie which I had seen since 10 000 meters (33 000 feet) in height in 2004. In the bus, I observed the flat landscape with cows and sometimes of the palm trees. Environment in Uruguay was very quiet, people were calm, and it was a small country of three million inhabitants to more than 95 percent of European origin "unknown" for Europeans. At the beginning, I had difficulty to feel the difference between Argentina and Uruguay, because the customs were very simple and discrete.

With arrived of Colonia Suiza, I often saw escutcheons of the Swiss cantons stuck beside the door of entry of the houses. On the outlet side of the bus, I entered the large court with a statue of the founder of Colonia Suiza. I saw sometimes inhabitants who resembled Swiss in Switzerland. I often heard Spanish, except a Germanic dialect. I lunched at the restaurant, a pizza with much of cheese was been useful. I saw beautiful girl with the black hair and with the particular nose that I had seen in boat, it was on the scooter. Ah, I did not know that it was "Swiss". After the visit of the city of the Swiss colonists, I go back to Colonia.

Entering the old town of Colonia, one saw old houses with ceramics under the radiant sun built at the XVII century by the Portuguese colonists. It was a pleasant walk, one saw Uruguayans who drank tea with a South American typical cup and a straw in the shaded garden by high trees. Always also quiet, I saw very European Uruguayans physically, but they did not have any more the same way of life as in Europe, they are now South-Americans that made me feel in another mode. Uruguay was an enthralling country for me. It was called Switzerland of South America by low criminality and the high social standing.

Going back to Buenos Aires, on bay, the color was brown of tropical origin come from north to come in the moderate area. I imagined that the visibility with the diving would be catastrophic.

I could see the district very colored and very tourist La Boca which I had not been able to see in 2004. In this district, one could see the Tango in the streets.

I reserved Tango Night before leaving for Ushuaia as in 2004. I was on the table close to the spectacle. I ate beef beside Brazilian, they spoke English difficulty, but a Brazilian doctor knew French and it answered me in French. After the dinner, there was a spectacle of Tango dance very close to me. I had never seen also close to Tango, it was very impressive.

My ticket indicated that I was to travel by a plane with Aeroparque close to the downtown area. With the arrival of this airport, I did not see Ushuaia on the departure screen, I thought that they forgot and I continued towards check-in. With check-in, he said to me that I was to go in Ezeiza. The international airport of Ezeiza was to 50 km of me and I had that one hour and half to take the plane. I was very nervous and my head turned, I required a taxi driver to go very quickly in Ezeiza, "rapido! ". The taxi driver had difficultly to believe, I answered him nervously that I was sure of going in Ezeiza. During the race, I was afraid of the stoppers and there were sometimes small stoppers, the taxi driver zigzagged. After one hour of nervous crossing, I arrived at the airport of Ezeiza, a guard asked me where I go, I answered him nervously "I don' t have time! ", then" Ushuaia ", he indicated to me that it was necessary to go over there. I arrived in time at check-in by repeating "Ushuaia, Ushuaia...". Under my polar sailing ship jacket, I was much perspired. It did not have a tax of surplus, in spite of the important going beyond of the weight for the domestic flight, max 15 kg (33 lb) for a luggage and 5 kg (11 lb) for a hand luggage.


Ushuaia

The flight lasted three hours and half. With the arrival, I re-saw environment tundra. I was glad to find me in Ushuaia for three days and I walked.

Suddenly, I saw a boat Grigoriy Mikheev which was on bay of Ushuaia, normally, it should not be there. I looked at the departure list for Antarctica with the office for Antarctica, my ship was not on the list, I smelled myself again very badly at ease. I asked the authority of the port, is Grigoriy Mikheev well? He answered me "No problem! "," Are you sure? "," Yes! ", but I doubted credibility. I consulted at the no-official travel agency, he answered me that it was true that it was with quay, but he did not know why. I turned over to the port, he saw me very nervous and he invited me to his office to calm me while explaining very slowly and very clearly that Mikheev was broken down and now, it was repaired and it was ready for the departure. I calmed myself a little. I wrote to my tour operator for Antarctica by e-mail. Two days later, he assured me that the departure will take place. With this history, I was traumatized. The unknown call when I was on the fast boat for Uruguay had become reality. In spite of my second voyage, the voyage in Antarctica will be to never become ordinary.

To tranquillize me, I went in the sunny national park and it was very pleasant to feel in nature with natural noises. I directed to foot towards the Chilean border on a little tortuous marked out path. At the border, I saw a three meters (10 feet) heights orange obelisk which marked the border between Argentina and Chile. The panel indicated that one could not pass the border, but I crossed nevertheless and I moved away to thirty meters (100 feet) before returning quickly. The other tourists joked with the border while playing clandestine and proposing to further move the panel being able to go further.
 

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Embarkation for Antarctica

Since the hotel, I ordered the taxi to go to the port which was to several hundred meters (330 feet) of me to transport with heavy luggage. I waited very nervously until the taxi arrived. After ten minutes of waiting, I travelled by the taxi in direction of the port. After control with x-ray, I crossed the port, and then I went up on the boat. There was a chef forwarding was the same one as in 2004 and it recognized me.

Embarked well on the boat, I always doubted that Mikheev could leave, because I remembered of a history of breakdown.

At the exit of the channel Beagle, on the deck, the sea started to agitate, the wind arrived and the albatross reappeared in the dark twilight that remember me in 2004. I thought that I could not remain a long time without special clothing, but the wind was not so cold and I was surprised, then I could continue to admire. English required that it was indeed an albatross that remember me in 2004.

The following day, I awoke and I supported the sea sickness better that three years ago, I wondered how it was possible that I would be less sensitive than before. After the breakfast, the passage of Drake already agitated had become more violent, force 9 reached, the boat was shaken more, more passengers fell sick, and I saw a vomit in the corridor.

The boat was very agitated and one could not sleep, I waited more than three hours to have a sleep strong to be able to fall asleep. I slept with my German plunger neighbor of Dresden. During two days of crossing, the sea was always agitated, I always resisted the sea sickness.

There was a group of five Germans of Dresden, they invited to me to form part of this group for the diving. On 41 passengers, there were 19 scuba divers German, English, Polish and Swiss (me).

My pipe for the inflator was very folded and I doubted for the diving, I sought during one day a solution, but the evening, I found a scotch resistant to water to make my pipe less flexible.
 

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Antarctica (part I)

At the third day of crossing to the passage of Drake, I left the passage, the sea had returned calm, I arrived in peninsula of Antarctica. First day in Antarctica, one prepared already the diving. The first diving in Antarctica was done in wreck of the Norwegian whaler Gouvernøren Harbor, Entreprise Islands. One went to the black zodiac, then a tank was put. I jumped behind in water, I felt a blow of cold to the face, more extremely than the diving under ice in Swiss Alps Lioson, the water surface was -1°C (30°F), but my dive computer recorded 0°C (32°F), I waited two minutes to accustom me. I dived with a German buddy and I observed indescribable anemones, brittle stars (Ophiora Victoriae) and nudibranches with 10 meters (33 feet) of depth. Then, I did a tour of wreck with the maximum depth of 16.3 meters (53 feet), there were whale bones. The visibility was approximately 10 meters (33 feet) and the color of water was entirely blue without less of green. After 20 minutes of diving, I begun to shiver, but I to continue to dive to finish the tour of wreck. After 28 minutes of diving, I went up to the zodiac, I had cold fingers, in spite of my dry gloves with wool gloves. I waited more than ten minutes to feel less painful with the fingers. It was so polar.

The afternoon for the second diving of the day, I was not very ready because of the extreme cold, but I did nevertheless. The divemaster proposed a diving beside wall in Cuverville Island. I was with the zodiac and the penguins, which kept upright on the rock, observed us neutral, it was a surrealist vision. I went down up to 12.8 meters (42 feet) and I observed large brown alga’s which cover wall with limpet (Nacella Cocinna) and indescribable starfishes. After 23 minutes of diving, my fingers were burned of cold. Then, I moved towards Danco Island to see the colony of gentoo penguins.

Arriving towards Danco Island with the dry suit, I was very glad to re-see penguins and I walked among penguins under the brown covered sky reflected by the island colored of brown. The landscape was pleasant. There was a "given up" king penguin surrounded of the gentoo penguins, I had never seen in Antarctica. Normally, the king penguins lived only on the subantarctic islands. The colors of the king penguin were splendid. A leopard seal walked close to the beach while waiting for that the penguins leave the beach.

Second day in Antarctica, I was on Paradis Bay, the sun arrived slowly. There was no diving for morning, but one visited the Argentinian base Almirante Brown. I went up to 100 meters (330 feet) in height, then I admired sunny bay. Then one toke the zodiac by doing a tour of very calm bay, there was a whale which often passed very close to the zodiacs. The passengers were always impressed to see the whale and photographed it.

The afternoon, overcast weather arrived, I did the dive close to the beach where there was a colony of gentoo penguins in Neko Harbor. I am descended up to 5.6 meters (18 feet) to hope to see penguins which swim, but I did not see anything.

After the diving, I changed clothes on the boat, then I went back to Neko Harbor to visit the colony of gentoo penguins. It was always pleasant to see penguins which shouted, the cry was unforgettable. The gentoo penguins were not so timorous and they approached towards the tourists. One remained a long time to inevitably admire thousands of penguins until the twilight arrives.

Third day, under snow, one crossed Lemaire Channel, of the rocks were impressive. I did the first diving with the iceberg in Pléneau. Going down up to 15.8 meters (52 feet), I saw the foot of iceberg, the color was blue dark. My first vision on the iceberg, it was the science fiction that remembered me much to science fiction movies. It was not comparable with the diving under ice in Swiss Alps Lioson. I did a tour of iceberg several times while photographing. I was slightly unconscious and time passed quickly. I remained until I begin to shiver after 25 minutes of diving.

After the diving, the afternoon, I visited Petermann Island where there was a large colony of gentoo penguins and a very small colony of Adelie penguins. It was the most southern colony of gentoo penguins of the world. I was glad to re-see Adelie penguins, they were very funny birds. I sited down on snow to observe very close to the colony of Adelie penguins, and I remained very a long time under fine snow.
 

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Antarctica (part II)

Fourth day under overcast weather, I returned to "international waters" calm with icebergs in direction towards the polar circle. I asked the organizers, if one could cross the polar circle, they answered me that they were not sure because of the icebergs. If they were not sure, I did not believe it too much. During the long day, one sailing zigzagging of the icebergs. I was bored a little by reading books with the bar gilded with wood to give convivial environment. Towards 17h00, I started to believe that one could cross the polar circle and I went up to the station of navigation to look the coordinates GPS.

With 17h20, the Antarctic Circle 66°33.5 ' is crossed. One hour later, one arrived towards Détaille Island (66°52 '), environment was so science fiction by seeing clouds which mixed with mountains. I smelled very isolated in the large continent blank and there is very little which went in this place.

After the hesitation of the divemaster, he decided that one dives to the iceberg, it would be my first diving beyond polar circle. I had very light bronchitis, but I did not want to miss this occasion by taking aspirin. There were only seven which was ready for this diving. I prepared thoroughly and I did attention to the materials not to miss the very rare diving beyond the polar circle. On zodiac, I was always careful. I jumped in water, then I went down around 15.3 meters (50 feet). I did not suffer from the blow of cold, my dive computer indicated for the first time -1°C (30°F). Under the dark twilight, I admired, I stuck myself and I rubbed the iceberg. Always also environment science fiction, I forgot time. I heard several times the violent noise of the shock between the rock and the iceberg shaken by waves. After 25 minutes of diving, I left water and I directed towards the island where there were seals. I walked on this island in dark and surrealist environment.

After the diving beyond the polar circle, I become one of the very rare scuba diver to have dived beyond the Antarctic Circle.

After six hours beyond the polar circle, the ship returned towards north in the night.

Fifth day, the diving of the morning was proposed, but I gave up because of light bronchitis and I preferred the long visit of the Ukrainian scientific base Vernadsky. It was a true scientific base which they made research on the climate, the ozone and the population of skuas. An old English base was repurchased with the Ukrainian academy in 1996 for 1£.

After the visit of a base, I crossed Lemaire Channel with the partial sun. It was a spectacular place, much of passengers gave up the dessert in the room to eat and preferred to photograph this landscape outside.

The afternoon with Orne Island, there was a diving with the iceberg, I did not want to go cause of light bronchitis, but I could not resist the iceberg and I took aspirin. I went down to 8.0 meters (26 feet) and I was under the iceberg. I was always very close to iceberg and I was been useful like a model by scuba divers photographers. I often photographed close to iceberg. I observed my bubbles which were streamed on the iceberg and slipped upwards. I saw my bubbles of metallic luster stuck under the iceberg. I sometimes forgot my buddy to admire colors of iceberg and bubbles. It was a very soft and feeric environment. After 19 minutes of diving, time passed quickly, somebody would like to return, I followed to him.

After the diving, I climbed on the iceberg with my buddy. It was a dream of childhood realizable with much difficulty. It was very slipping and I clung. It was my last day of diving, I returned to the zodiac under the neutral observation of the penguins upright.

Sixth day, I visited the British base become a historic hut. The base was surrounded of the thousands of gentoo penguins. The sun returned and the landscape became spectacular. About midday, the ship crossed Neumayer Channel. The afternoon, the weather was again been overcast, and one set out again towards the passage of Drake to return.

I had a little the impression to be an astronaut in Antarctica, because in the ship, one could have the sea sickness as the astronauts which often had the space sickness. The communication was satellite, because Antarctica is a continent very insolated that one could communicate only by satellite like the astronauts. I dived with diving-suit in water as with space-suit in space. By watching the German-French emission, it spoke about the mission about Mars, it explained the psychology of the astronauts, if a close relation had a problem, and it would be hard for an astronomer that one could not repatriate quickly. This time, that arrived to me, my mother announced to me by satellite special e-mail that my grandmother died quietly at the 100 years age with several days of delay during I entered the passage of Drake. The passage of Drake was exceptionally calm and sunny, I was sad, but I understood that it was very old. I preferred not to say to passengers not to make a mess of their holidays.

During two days of crossing, the passage was exceptionally calm. My grandmother wished to see me in Antarctica since the paradise.

Arriving towards Channel Beagle, I saw for the first time the green color of the landscape which I had never seen in the Antarctic. The green color marked me like a return in the paradise.

With the return in Switzerland, I let run in the wash-hand basin to see which direction turned, the direction turned in counterclockwise, contrary to the hotel of Buenos Aires.

 
WOW, nice report
 
Well done, well written. I'm kicking myself for not doing this sooner. I was in Panama at 19 years old (military) and could have been certified easily, and cheap. Since then, I've been back to Panama, been to honduras twice for 4 months each, Europe, Canada (west coast), New Zealand, Hawaii twice, and Antarctica!! Looks like I need to start over!!
 
Thanks for sharing that, and taking the trouble to write it up.
I have no plans to do anything like that, but I appreciate the opportunity to
at least understand a little of what it must be like to do it, in intimate detail
from a diver's perspective. The National Geographic etc. TV shows have great
video but you never get a real sense of the actual experience. Well done.
 
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