Diving HMS Hermes Part 1

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Searcaigh

Seahorse Wrangler
Staff member
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
11,092
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Location
Dubai, UAE
# of dives
1000 - 2499
HMS Hermes on the east coast of Sri Lanka has been on my bucket list for slightly more than two years when I discovered that my tech instructor, Glenn Campbell, who used to run Coastal Technical Divers had been there.

Around September last year one of my tech buddies Chris decided to set up a trip following a land based visit to Sri Lanka with his wife, and visiting the dive centre (Sri Lankan Diving Tours) to check out the facilities.

Plans were drawn up and discussed amongst ten of us and deposits transferred. My own personal concern was that the timing of the trip was at the beginning of May, I would have preferred some time during Ramadan though when work drops off, but I signed up anyway.

By the time it came to transfer the remainder of the payment another option came on the scene when it was announced by the Aggressor fleet that one of their boats was going to be based in Sri Lanka for diving trips to Sri Lanka on a seasonal schedule and it included diving HMS Hermes. This however was short lived after many issues mentioned elsewhere in the forum.

Our arrival into Sri Lanka was staggered with three of us arriving from Dubai on a Thursday, one arriving from Abu Dhabi on the early hours of Friday and the final three arriving from Dubai at Friday lunchtime.

Those of us who arrived earlier stayed overnight at Leon’s Guest House in Negombo. Basic but comfortable, and only a short walk away from several restaurants.

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On Friday at 11:00 the bus arrived to pick us up, and I was happy to see that it was not a minibus, we had a lot of gear including six rebreathers. We boarded the bus after a light lunch and headed to the airport to pick up the last three members of our group.

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Once everyone was aboard we headed to Batticaloa, a rather long and arduous journey with speeds rarely above 40 KPH. The driving conditions are, well third world, to travel any faster would have been suicidal.

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We stopped for a meal en route by a lake and then carried on into the night, when the driver Sunil informed us that it was dangerous to drive through the jungle area at night because of wild elephants!

As it happened we came across three elephants just meters from the road, but using our dive lights to see them properly just made them head back into the jungle.

We eventually arrived in Batticaloa around 9:00pm and after moving our bags into the assigned rooms we had a few beers and some chicken sandwiches before heading to bed around midnight.

Since three of our original group had pulled out (medical problems for two and work issues for another), three divers from the US previously booked on the Sri Lankan Aggressor, joined our group. This proved advantageous for me as I was the only OC diver in my group, so I ended up buddying with the “Muricans”, during the week.

On the Saturday morning, Feli (owner of Sri Lankan Diving Tours) took the three Americans on a check out dive on the Boiler wreck, a shallow 8-9m dive site just outside of the lagoon, while I assembled my camera equipment and the others put their rebreathers together.

Unfortunately, our prior request for specific mixes was not actioned and after Feli returned from the check-out dive he was busy pumping gas into the twinsets and Dil bottles for the rebreathers.

Compressor and gas mixing room

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There was also a severe lack of S40 deco bottles and I ended up with an S63 for my 50% and a 3L rebreather bottle rigged for 100%. I was looking for a gas mix of anything between 20/30 to 20/40. My first mix was a hot 19/30 but two of the Americans ended up with a 24/25 and a 24/28. During the week, I had to ask Feli adjust the mixes. It just appeared to be an issue to do the mixing the night before for some reason unless pushed. One mix originally read as 21/32 later read as 19/41 after the dive!

All but one of us was sharing a room with ensuite bathroom. The beds were basic with one small pillow. Water temperature for washing was ambient temperature although some solar panels are being added, so in future there should be hot water.

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So we were eventually ready for the first dive on the Hermes, and the boat handlers carried our gear to the small boats that were to take us out to the wreck. I was on the lead boat with Feli who would be using an anchor to hook onto the wreck and the other boats would tie on after dropping the divers on the line, depending on conditions.

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The sea was flat and the ride smooth, when we reached the site (using GPS) Feli hooked the wreck and tied off and we all splashed.

From 15m we could see the wreck that sits upside down on the bottom at 53m, with the typical aircraft carrier superstructure decaying on the starboard side.

The wreck is 200m in length, and Feli always ties on to the central portion, giving an equal option of swimming to the bow or to the stern. He has attached lines also along the keel which is at 40m to help during strong currents that frequent the wreck.

The maximum number of dives per day on OC is two, although the weather in the afternoons changed as the wind got up and the rides out and back were very bumpy.

Boarding the boats also meant de-kitting in the water, easy in calm water, but challenging in 2m swells. The boats are also small, and included a small RIB that had no ladder. The ladders on the wooden boats were also short, and my method of boarding was to put a knee into the bottom rung and then the opposite foot and pull myself up with my hands on the side of the boat.

Two of the boats had looped lines around the hull, so it was easy to hang on to them when it was choppy during de-kitting. Some of the clips on the stage tanks though were not big enough for fingers to easily undo though. My advice would be to bring your own stage rigging as Dan, one of the Americans, had done, at least you should be able to manage with larger bolt snaps.

Okay so what about the diving?

The morning dives were spectacular with amazing visibility until Tuesday afternoon when it dropped down to 10m on the wreck itself although higher up in the water column it was still pretty good. However, on that dive I had other issues with what I initially thought was a blown hose on my right post first stage. Later inspection back on dry land revealed a blown O-ring on the LP inflator hose.

However, my planned 30 min bottom time was reduced to 15 mins.

The wreck itself is massive and there is plenty to explore. My Rebreather buddies did a lot of penetration dives, and enjoyed 60 min bottom times with 120 min deco times.

There are guns to look at as well as boxes of shells scattered here and there. Coral growth on the wreck itself is also interesting along with some good marine life.

George, one of the Americans passing by one of the guns

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Dan on deco

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Wot, no bubbles!

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Why Ensign in memory of those who perished during the attack (possibly from the previous group who dived the wreck)

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The hull is covered with this type of coral – spot the longnose hawkfish

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The first trip to a new place is always hit and miss.

Personally, for me I would have preferred diving with someone I had some previous experience of diving with. However, two of the Americans George and Dan, proved to be very good buddies, but there was not much planning done beforehand, and I did miss diving with somebody I knew and dived with.

Socially it was a great week, and both groups mixed well. The staff were brilliant, the food basic but wholesome. Feli is working hard to improve the dive centre, and several more improvements are in the pipeline including proper rinse tanks for gear.

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Hermes is far more interesting, diving wise, than PoW and Repulse. And given its close proximity to the resort, 20mins, highly recommended to any tec divers.
I do agree that Tec dive with complete stranger is NOT really comfortable.
 
Fantastic Trip @Searcaigh ! Interesting & epic history on this WWII sunk-in-action Aircraft Carrier. Good to see the picture above of the Royal Navy Ensign finally "flying" on the HMS Hermes. . .

The adventure just getting to Batticoloa in May 2010, a year after the the civil war ended was fraught with peril as well -not only did we have to worry about wild elephants during our "roadside convenience breaks in the bush", but we also were warned about land mines and unexploded ordnance alongside the road too. . .!

Mfike Barrow's great photo collection of our 2010 Hermes Expedition.

Most sobering & solemn non-diving picture from trip:
Remaining Damage from 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami: Tiruchendur Murugan Alayam Temple, Kallady Beach , Batticaloa, Sri Lanka
 
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Having travelled in Cambodia in early 90, hidden ordnance pose no treat as long as you refrain from walking across any field to relieve oneself!!
Train journey is the most civilized way in travelling.
If I have a day to spare I would definitely take the train back to Columbo.
 
Train journey would be nice if we did not have so much gear with us including 6 rebreathers and other redundant equipment.
 
I am pretty sure Hermes will attract a lot more tec divers so there is no excuse for Feli not to improve some of the problems that Searcaigh had mentioned. Make no mistake Feli has accomplished a fantastic job but there is still room for improvement.
Finally, I really do not see the point of using liveaboard to dive Hermes. And as far as I am concerned, the set up at Deep Sea Resort is perfect for the purpose.
 
Interesting read!

Rather amusing to some extent.

Feli is improving the "resort" bit by bit, not an easy task in a country like Sri Lanka, and certainly something that people in first world countries may not understand.

Yes it's still basic but Feli is investing in it to improve the place and we gave him some positive feedback where he should improve. I have never been on an Aggressor live aboard so I can't comment on the luxury they provide. I have noticed on their website that one is now planned to operate off Oman and the east coast of UAE.
 

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