DIN vs. Yoke

[DrewBud78]

I'm in the process of DIRifying my rig in preparation to take fundies next fall. I already have a yoke 1st stage (MK17) and was wondering if I'll need to replace that with a DIN first stage? If so, is a converter acceptable or should I just get a new first stage?

Also, would that change if I move from a single to doubles?

I tried searching but couldn't find the DIR answer as all the posts were in the regulators forum.


Thanks in advance

 

[Ben_ca]

Are you going for a Tech or Rec status? If you are going Tech move your regs over to DIN as much as practically possible... (don't go broke) and then go to doubles. Even if you are going thru fundies for a rec rating when you can start converting over to DIN... That's probably where you want to end up anyway

 

[nadwidny]

DIN is preferred but not mandatory. Even in the course standards there is no mention of one over the other.

 

[SparticleBrane]

I absolutely hate yoke regs. Mainly through my own fault, but I still hate them.
I was doing a scuba ditch and recovery for my AI class--go down, take off your gear, turn the air off, swim a bit, surface, go back down, swim to your gear, turn it back on, put the gear back on (in less than 5 minutes). Upon returning to my gear I made the mistake of unscrewing the yoke screw instead of opening the valve...and that never would have happened with DIN.

So for me, I use DIN as much as practically possible.

 

[amascuba]

You can have your LDS get you a DIN kit for your MK17 with a yoke adapter. It will cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $100 for both the DIN kit and yoke adapter.

Do you have access to tanks that have DIN valves? If not then I wouldn't worry about it. DIN makes a stronger connection than yoke and it's the standard in Europe, but if you don't have access to tanks with DIN valves, then why make the change?

I have one regulator that has a yoke fitting for my single tank recreational dives. I use DIN fittings for my double tanks and stage/deco tanks.

 

[DrewBud78]

thanks everyone for the replies and input. My current plan is to go for tech status

It's nice to know that I can stick with what I have for now and not have the added expense of a new first stage (thanks for the info about the DIN kit too) before I take fundies.

Thanks again

 

[amascuba]

For a Tech pass of DIR-F you will have to take the class in Drysuit, isolated manifolded double tanks, canister light, and you have some stricter standards. For instance you will have to do all your skills within a 3ft window instead of 5ft, etc.

When I first started diving doubles I started out changing my regulator setup and adding a second regulator between double tanks and single tanks. I finally got tired of that and now have dedicated regulators for double tanks, single tanks, and deco tanks.

Now that we know that you plan on a tech pass I would start saving your money and acquiring the equipment needed to do a tech pass. In the mean time I would just start diving and if possible start diving with DIR minded and/or trained divers.

 

[SparticleBrane]

Just curious---where's the requirements for a tech pass? I've heard the 3ft limit, can light and doubles, but I have not heard of a drysuit requirement. I know the whole "drysuit if you're using steel doubles" but if you take the class in aluminum 80s, or steel 72s...I don't see why you can't do it in a wetsuit.

 

[amascuba]

Just looked at the GUE standards.

http://www.gue.com/Training/Standards/GUE_Standards_2006_ver4.pdf

It doesn't actually say that you have to use a drysuit. All it states for exposure protection is "Exposure suit appropriate for the duration of exposure". It's a good read though for anybody wanting to take the class.

I use a drysuit and double AL80's for many of my dives. In addition to my #6 SS backplate I use 4 lbs in a tail pouch and it works for me just fine. Anything less than that and I notice the tanks getting floaty when they reach around 1200psi. That works fine for a balanced rig. The last time I was in the water my buddy and I decided to see how easy it would be to swim our rigs up from 30ffw with no air in our wings or drysuits and it was actually quiet easy.

In all reality I don't use wetsuits thicker than 3mm. The reason is that it takes more weight to get down and once I'm at depth the suit compresses and then I'm to heavy at depth.

 

[SparticleBrane]

Note that I was just playing Devil's Advocate.