DIN vs. Yoke Valves

[ucladiver]

Can someone explain the difference between DIN valves and Yoke valves? How each works/looks? Avantages/Disadvantages of each? Is one more prevalent that the other? (In the United States in particular, but also in other parts of the world). I am thinking about buying a regulator and I was curious as to which type to get. DiveINN rarely has Yoke reg's in stock but DINs are always in stock, so I was leaning toward one of those.

I don't have a tank yet, but plan on getting one soon. (Maybe a typical AL80 or if can afford it a Steel HP100). I know DINs are typically found on HP tanks, but I've also heard Yoke valves can be used.

If I get a Mares DIN reg, is there an adaptor to use it on a Yoke valve and vice versa? Are there any reasons why an adaptor shouldn't be used? Thanks for the info.

ucladiver

 

[Jonathan]

you might want to check out this thread:

http://www.scubaboard.com/t4823/s.html

Jonathan

 

[herman]

Hi UCLADIVER,

GO and check out the thread Jonathan listed but to kind of sum it up a little without getting into the "which is best" debate. The DIN kind of looks like a big bolt with a hole in it and it screws into the tank valve, the yoke is basically a oval metal loop with a screw opposite the reg that clamps it to the tank valve. If you are going to get your own tanks and only dive them, then DIN is fine. If you are doing (or intend to do) a lot advanced diving then DIN is most likely the best way to go. On the other hand, if your diving is like most of us in the US, traveling around the states and the Caribbean then a yoke type is most likely the best way to go. It is what most all of the dive boats around here (east coast), in Fla and throughout the Caribbean use. I have heard that in Europe the reverse is true. At a mimimum, if you go with DIN, you will want some way to convert between the 2 if you dive the US/Caribbean. Some regs have adapters avalible, others can be easily converted by removing one fitting and replacing it with the other.

 

[Jonathan]

My experience in Europe is that yoke is still king but a lot of the tanks are set up with an insert in the valve you can take out to convert to DIN. IMHO all tank valves should be like this then it takes away a lot of the confusion and frustration if you turn up with the "wrong" regs

Just my 2yen (even less than $0.02!)

Jonathan

 

[Scottri]

Here is the States Yoke is the most common type. I have all yoke tanks and reg because it's easier to get fills, rent tanks and such. I don't do any "technical" diving so I have no need for DIN. Most of the DIN stuff I see around here is high pressure tanks. My tanks are all low pressure.


Scott

 

[Lost Yooper]

Yeah, basically everything I have to say about this is on that thread Jonathan posted. I don't have any pics showing DIN and yoke -- just look around.

Just a little more about DIN/yoke. There is/was 200DIN which good to 200BAR and the depth of the thread is less than the 300DIN (300DIN is what everyone refers to and the shank with the threads is longer). A yoke reg needs to be converted to 300DIN to use on a 300DIN valve. This conversion is extremely simple and can be done in minutes. Don't worry about 200DIN -- these aren't much any more.
You can buy a DIN to yoke adaptor so you can use a DIN reg on a yoke tank. They are not ideal as they bring the first stage closer to your head, but they will work. Assuming you are a wetsuit diver, I would buy an AL 80 with DIN valve and DIN reg with yoke adaptor. With all of this you can use your DIN valve, rent yoke tanks, and not have to do any converting (even though it's very easy to do). I believe the adaptor is cheaper than the conversion too. It doesn't cost any more for a DIN reg or a yoke reg, but a DIN valve is slightly more expensive than a yoke valve.
With the AL80, you're closer to doubles, because you won't want to use double steel tanks with a wetsuit. In other words, you won't be wasting money on a HP tank if you decide to go to doubles in the future -- you'll go with double 80's which are better for wetsuit divers than steels. Think ahead here and you may save yourself quite a bit of money if you ever get into tech stuff. If you don't, you certainly haven't done anything harmful or wasteful.

Take care.

Mike

 

[tombiowami]

I have alum 80s with yoke valves, if I wanted to change to din valves, how hard would that be? I saw Genesis din valves at Leisure Pro for 54$ each. Is it just a matter of letting the air out and then taking a wrench to the valves in a clean environment? Or do I need to take them in to have someone do it?

Tommy

 

[Uncle Pug]

Originally posted by tombiowami
I have alum 80s with yoke valves, if I wanted to change to din valves, how hard would that be? I saw Genesis din valves at Leisure Pro for 54$ each. Is it just a matter of letting the air out and then taking a wrench to the valves in a clean environment? Or do I need to take them in to have someone do it?

Tommy

You don't want the slanted Genesis....
Get the straight Sherwood DINs....

Do you need to take them in to have someone do it???

I took a tank into a local hydro tester and his little helper took a wrench to the chrome plated soft brass valve in the wrong spot...

I got a brand new valve out of that exchange!

"Someone else" doesn't always know what he is doing....
so I take the valves out myself now before I let them have the cylinders to test....

Could you do it???? Just make sure that you let all the air out of the cylinder first.... slowly.....

Do not put the wrench on the mating face of the face (near the O-ring) .... you might need to give the handle of the wrench a smart WHACK with a hammer to loosen the valve.... or not....

Be sure to put some lube on the neck O-ring of the new valve.... I personally use O2 compatible.... you could use silicone....

BTW while you have the valve off look down inside the jug.... dark huh? Sears sells a little bulb on the end of a skinny wand. Buy one and it won't be so dark down in there....

Charge yourself $20 per tank....
Take the wife out for dinner on your earnings.....

 

[Rick Murchison]

Originally posted by Uncle Pug


Charge yourself $20 per tank....
Take the wife out for dinner on your earnings.....

You can even go one better... take PSI's VIP course, get yourself some stickers and save yourself the annual fee.
Rick

 

[roakey]

If you think doubles might be in your future someday, go to Diver's Supply (http://www.divers-supply.com/) and for $170 buy the SeaElite Modular Manifold with Isolation (search on "Manifold") and a left and right plug (don't know how much these are each).

This will give you the full manifold for doubles, and you can remove the center isolator and put in the plugs and have two somewhat normal valves.

The reason I say somewhat is that you'll have one normal valve and one "backwards" valve where the knob is on the opposite side of the outlet than you're used to. No big deal.

Big savings in the long run, but only if you're thinking of someday going to doubles.

The SeaElite is available in either 200 bar (with yoke valve "doughnuts") or 300 BAR.

Roak