DIN to Yoke Adapter

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

DBPacific

Contributor
Messages
535
Reaction score
650
Location
Maine, USA
# of dives
50 - 99
Hello,

I saw that the D6 DIN-Yoke adapters are out of stock on the website. Would a Din-Yoke adapter from another brand work for a Signature DIN first stage or should I wait for the adapters to get back into stock?

Thanks
 
Yes, the DIN to Yoke one from DGX works well too.
 
Just a note in general about using DIN to Yoke adapters:

If your regulator is designed to be used with HP tanks/valves then it will have 7 threads on the portion that screws into the valve. Some DIN to Yoke adapters only have 5 female threads....this is not a problem as that is more than enough to engage with the regulator, but you will see 2 thread length of regulator extending outside of the female part of the adapter.

The whole 7 vs 5 threads is to keep divers from destroying their regulator by screwing a 232 bar rated 1st stage into a 300 bar DIN valve....the 232 bar 1st stage will only have 5 threads on the male DIN connection so it will not physically thread in far enough to make a seal against the inside of the valve.

There are DIN to Yoke adapters that have 7 threads, relying on interference between the yoke and the valve to prevent attachment and subsequent damage to the 1st stage.

-Z
 
Just a note in general about using DIN to Yoke adapters:

If your regulator is designed to be used with HP tanks/valves then it will have 7 threads on the portion that screws into the valve. Some DIN to Yoke adapters only have 5 female threads....this is not a problem as that is more than enough to engage with the regulator, but you will see 2 thread length of regulator extending outside of the female part of the adapter.

The whole 7 vs 5 threads is to keep divers from destroying their regulator by screwing a 232 bar rated 1st stage into a 300 bar DIN valve....the 232 bar 1st stage will only have 5 threads on the male DIN connection so it will not physically thread in far enough to make a seal against the inside of the valve.

There are DIN to Yoke adapters that have 7 threads, relying on interference between the yoke and the valve to prevent attachment and subsequent damage to the 1st stage.

-Z
That's really cool, thanks for the info and the heads up
 
Forgot to mention as well...if you have 232 Bar rated 1st stage with 5 thread DIN connection and you purchase a 7 thread DIN to Yoke adapter....the 1st stage will not screw into the adapter far enough to seal and will hiss as the air escapes similar to what will happen if you screw the same reg into a 300 Bar rated valve as explained in my previous post.

Check your reg (count the threads on the male fitting) prior to purchasing an adapter.

232 Bar reg = can only use 5 thread adapter.
300 Bar reg = can use either 5 or 7 thread adapter.

-Z
 
I think that all modern regulators (and definitely the Deep 6 signature) can stand 300bar, as the only difference between the DIN (be it 300 or 230 or 200bar) and the INT(200/232 bar) versions, is the part of the reg that screws on the tank. The rest of the body of the regulator is exactly the same for all versions.
Actually one can convert a DIN reg to INT and vise versa by just exchanging the corresponding inlet part - and I am not talking about converters but change of the corresponding part (the actual knob) of the regulator itself.

All the mesh described above (200 vs 232 vs 300 vs 5 turns vs 7 turns etc) is just leftovers from very long time ago that unfortunately still haunts us.

Just my 2 cents. I let more experienced users confirm this.
 
I think that all modern regulators (and definitely the Deep 6 signature) can stand 300bar, as the only difference between the DIN (be it 300 or 230 or 200bar) and the INT(200/232 bar) versions, is the part of the reg that screws on the tank. The rest of the body of the regulator is exactly the same for all versions.
Actually one can convert a DIN reg to INT and vise versa by just exchanging the corresponding inlet part - and I am not talking about converters but change of the corresponding part (the actual knob) of the regulator itself.

All the mesh described above (200 vs 232 vs 300 vs 5 turns vs 7 turns etc) is just leftovers from very long time ago that unfortunately still haunts us.

Just my 2 cents. I let more experienced users confirm this.

You would be wrong sir. I have in my hands at this very moment a "modern reg" that my wife purchased new about 2 years ago in DIN configuration, AL Calypso, and it is only rated to 232 bar and the DIN fitting has only 5 threads.

-Z
 
You would be wrong sir. I have in my hands at this very moment a "modern reg" that my wife purchased new about 2 years ago in DIN configuration, AL Calypso, and it is only rated to 232 bar and the DIN fitting has only 5 threads.
-Z
Yes, obviously I am very wrong in the case of Calypso. So, indeed not ALL modern regulators are like this.

However I would risk to be wrong once more by saying that MOST modern regs can stand 300bars and the only difference among models might be the inlet (INT or 5 threads DIN for 200/232 bar - 7 thread DIN for 300 bar), for an otherwise identical reg.
 

Back
Top Bottom