DIN conversion

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tomboyy

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I recently bought a DIN conversion kit. On the box it says to torque to

10400124: 4-5

10400126: 30-32

Is this needed or can I tighten just like I would my hoses and 2nd stages

Thanks
 
  1. Yes
  2. NO!!!

The 1st part is the filter retainer, just pass finger tight is OK.

The 2nd part takes all the pressure from the tank and prevent the reg from acting like a bullet through your head. It should be tightened to specs. Too little and you'll need a replacement head, too much and you'll need a replacement body for your 1st stage if it's a MK20: they were know to break when abused. With a 10-12 in. ratchet, 20-30 ft-lbs is not a great deal of effort, but it's WAY pass finger tight.
 
The fitting will leak long before it becomes a bullet through your head, so that is serious bit of catastrophising to suggest otherwise. And if you don't notice the massive leak before the fitting hits you in your head, you weren't using your head for anything anyway.

Torque specs are important however. Over torquing was known to lead to cracked reg bodies in the early and mid production Mk 20's - but the current SP DIN and Yoke retainers have a collar to prevent the fitting from bottoming out in the reg body, so they can still be over torqued but it won't damage the reg.

Generally I torque them to 22 ft pounds on brass bodied SP first stages.
 
You don't mention what brand/model reg you have, but another vote for 22 ft lbs. It is a very common spec for the DIN kits for many manufacturers.
 
22 ft-lbs/266 in-lbs/30 Nm is exactly what SP specifies for the MK20/25. The older models are sometimes spec'ed at between 23-27 ft-lbs, so your torque wrench doesn't have to be accurately calibrated.

Torque wrenches are cheap; I've got 2 at $20 a piece on eBay, and they're handy to have around. Or you can go to your friendly auto mechanic and borrow one; you can do it right there in the shop.

I just modded a MK5 to DIN using DA's technique of stepping on the reg with one foot; it works wonderful and I didn't even bother to take the hoses off.
 
I don’t know what your relationship is like with your local Scuba Pro dealer but mine swaps my Mk25 back and forth from DIN to Yolk a couple of times a year for no charge.
 
22 ft-lbs/266 in-lbs/30 Nm is exactly what SP specifies for the MK20/25. The older models are sometimes spec'ed at between 23-27 ft-lbs, so your torque wrench doesn't have to be accurately calibrated.

Torque wrenches are cheap; I've got 2 at $20 a piece on eBay, and they're handy to have around. Or you can go to your friendly auto mechanic and borrow one; you can do it right there in the shop.

I just modded a MK5 to DIN using DA's technique of stepping on the reg with one foot; it works wonderful and I didn't even bother to take the hoses off.

Thanks this is exactly what I was looking for and thanks to everyone else that replied :D
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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