DC1000 2 questions video light and non-light distance pixilation

[dierenarts]

I've been pretty happy with this unit for basic videos on snorkel and dive trips, have even used the built in forced flash for under rock type shots.

1) Problem I've seen in video mode (no strobe or light) whether underwater or out of the case on dry land...anytime there is a distance shot including a lot of sky or water the video appears pixilated and with wavy gradations of blue not what I'd consider high def

2) I've used the video light but find it a hassle to switch from blue water dive mode to recommended white balance cloudy mode, also the light seems to only apply well to 1 foot distances or less, a far cry from the manual ranges. Any solutions. Is the strobe attachment worth it for still pics? Do you have the same issue switching settings between strobe use and video other than the mode selection?

 

[rob1967]

I think for question #1, it may partly be just be a limitation of the camera. Also, you will have to get a whole lot closer to get a good shot of the eagle ray. I had the DC1000, and eventually went up to the DC1200 (for free, courtesy of SeaLife, because the shutter button release kept jamming on the DC1000 housing). I seem to recall similar issues to yours with the video on the DC1000, I think the video was better on the DC1200, but can't recall for sure. (I've moved on to a Canon now, I take mostly stills).

As for question #2, try doing a manual white balance underwater before shooting video (do it at the same depth and lighting conditions that you plan to shoot the video; repeat the manual WB if your depth changes significantly). Shooting stills with ambient light will also come out better if you do a white balance first. If you get one or 2 strobes, it will make your stills way better, and you won't have to do a white balance; the light from your strobes will color-correct your shots.