DA Aquamaster Help

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BigRed96

Contributor
Messages
279
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Location
New Richmond, Oh
# of dives
100 - 199
Good Day All, I now have all the pieces to build my Aquamaster. Does anyone know of any detailed instructions to putting one together? I had disassembled it months ago and cleaned it so I’m foggy as to everything’s order in reassembly. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Next question...I’m installing the HPR second stage. Does the body get screwed down till it bottoms out in the opening. I’m following the direction on VDH. If I screw it in until it’s seated the loosen to line up the venturi hole the seat stem is a mile out with not adjustment left.
 
The DA/RAM can be assembled in most any order but I do have a preference. I first assemble the HP stage setting it aside, then install the HP diaphragm, spring, spring pad and adjustment screw (just barely in a turn or 2). I hold the HP nozzle upside down, install the pin, pinpad and gasket, keeping it upside down, put it into the yoke and finally the main body is screwed on. Once the body is finger snug, you can turn it upright and finish tightening it. I don't recommend putting the gasket inside the body, it tends to get crocked and not seal. Depending on the gasket you are using, torque varies. The white nylon ones does NOT require much torque and you can easily get them too tight and damage them. Conversely, the brown phenolic ones need a good bit of torque but they are very unforgiving, they are brittle and will break easily if you get them crocked.

Typically, the HPR is screwed all the way in finger tight then turned out until the first large hole is pointed down the supply horn. Do you have the 2 washers correctly installed? One should be below the lever and the other above it.
 
The DA/RAM can be assembled in most any order but I do have a preference. I first assemble the HP stage setting it aside, then install the HP diaphragm, spring, spring pad and adjustment screw (just barely in a turn or 2). I hold the HP nozzle upside down, install the pin, pinpad and gasket, keeping it upside down, put it into the yoke and finally the main body is screwed on. Once the body is finger snug, you can turn it upright and finish tightening it. I don't recommend putting the gasket inside the body, it tends to get crocked and not seal. Depending on the gasket you are using, torque varies. The white nylon ones does NOT require much torque and you can easily get them too tight and damage them. Conversely, the brown phenolic ones need a good bit of torque but they are very unforgiving, they are brittle and will break easily if you get them crocked.

Typically, the HPR is screwed all the way in finger tight then turned out until the first large hole is pointed down the supply horn. Do you have the 2 washers correctly installed? One should be below the lever and the other above it.
Hey Herman, I do have the lever between the two washers. I installed the HPR and the is where I have the thing set as of now. See pic
8995F1FB-A9C8-43C4-8253-B20F620B7EBE.jpeg
 
It may be unnecessary and "stupid", but here goes my technique:

Before I assemble the HPR, I install the body without anything else, and mark it with a sharpie as to where it indexes properly for lever orientation. I then take it back out, put it together (I then will have lever then on the correct side of the body when I thread it in), put the lever up at 90 degrees, and thread it in to the index mark (bottom it out and bring it "back"), then lock it in with the side tabs. From there, drop the lever off the 90 degree, and all set. That avoids any potential to cut the seat, and the lever is always in the right orientation.

Tune from that point. I've been quite successful doing that....

Comments of what I might be doing wrong and why are always accepted...
 
Well...Good news! I have the regulator put together and it seem free from leaks other than a vintage hp hose I will replace. Have the IP set at 135. Still need to figure out tuning the second stage portion, but it breaths and I am thrilled with this thing!!!
 
Here is how I set one up.
First, you must start with a low tank, 300-500 psi. This is because unbalanced diaphragm regs INCREASE IP as tank pressure drops, counter intuitive but true. If you start with a full tank and set the second stage it will free flow a little at low tank pressures.

Install HPR or OEM second stage, screw it down fully then back off at least 1/2 turn stopping when one of the larger holes aligns with the supply horn. A little more is fine but 1 full turn is iffy. Install the lever if it's not there, leaving it fairly loose, the nut should be several turns out.

Pressurize reg and set IP, I like to burp air several times to make sure it's stable. Anywhere in the 125-140 psi range is fine for now.

This step must be done with the reg pressurized. Adjust lever nut until the lever rises and there is about 1/8 inch of free movement remaining in the lever. Set the main diaphragm on the reg and gently press/tap the diaphragm, by feel/ sound, adjust the lever nut until there is about 1/8 in of space between the diaphragm and the lever. This is a little excessive but the distance will decrease when the C clips or clamp is installed, set this too tight and the reg will free flow when you install them. At least a little free play should remain in the lever, if not you may need to slightly bend the lever legs up slightly and readjust the nut. If for some reason, the second stage leaks, you can reduce the IP some, conversely, the IP can be increased to lower the cracking pressure, the exact value is not critical. From there you can do a lot of tweaking if you are so inclined but for the average user this should make an easy but stable breathing reg.

I know most of you know this but I'm going to say it again. DO NOT try to test the reg by breathing off the horn, violent free flows are likely which can cause serious lung damage, always use a properly working hose loop to test the regs.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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