Ironborn
Contributor
Introduction
This was the first trip that I devoted entirely to diving. My prior dives in other places were on broader trips or trips that I devoted half to diving and half to another hobby. I chose Cozumel for my first pure dive trip because, unlike many other top-notch spots, it has enough to do topside if one cannot dive in the afternoon or at night. This issue turned out to be moot, as I found dives for most of those times.
This trip marked other milestones for me. I logged 20+ dives in about a week, bringing me past the 50 dives benchmark. I now know that I can handle and enjoy a high volume of dives, often doing 4 dives a day. When I was out of the water, I could not wait to get wet again, even when the diving had not gone as well as I hoped. This trip persuaded me that I am ready for the “terrestrial liveaboard” or “dive camp” environments of Bonaire and Roatan, which are next on my bucket list, as well as liveaboards. It renewed my passion for night dives, which I acquired during my AOWD night dive and reinforced with five night dives in Cozumel. This experience also advanced my ability to handle more complex and challenging dive environments and planning, refined my understanding of my own taste, and taught me lessons in the selection of dive environments, operators, and equipment.
I generally used Trip Advisor to find dive operators for prior trips in other places. I relied more on this Cozumel sub-forum for this trip, particularly its “Top Ten” list. I was skeptical of Trip Advisor rankings, which lend greater weight to higher-volume operators with more reviews, and the merits of some opinions of some reviewers. I read Trip Advisor reviews for the Top Ten operators in order to evaluate them, but in retrospect I wish that I had complemented that list with Trip Advisor as a source of other operators. Because the main operator that I originally chose from the Top Ten list did not have enough divers for the two-tank twilight trips and night dives that I wanted, I also dove with other operators that I later found on Trip Advisor but were not on the Top Ten list; I might have chosen them as my main daytime operators if I had originally used Trip Advisor as a source of candidates, and I might have had a better trip if I had done so. My better experiences with other operators in the afternoons and evenings eventually led me to change operators for my morning trips too.
(continued in next post on this thread)
Dive Operations: Aldora
I initially chose Aldora as my main operator, given its reputation here. Other selling points were steel 120 tanks and two weekly night dives. Its large scale gave me pause, as I thought that smaller operators provide better customer service and more enjoyable experiences. The reasonable size of its groups (no more than 6 divers) mitigated such concerns, and I hoped that its larger diver base would create more opportunities for the afternoon, night, and two-tank twilight trips that I wanted. I also hoped that its larger client base would make it easier to put me on a boat with other divers whose experience and skill levels were like mine, which may be harder for smaller operators.
Steel 120 tanks definitely yield longer bottom times. Aldora advertises an average of 70 minutes, and most of my bottom times were similar or better. I had my longest-ever bottom time of 80 minutes, and other divers logged 90 minutes. I occasionally approached the NDL even on Nitrox, so we ascended to shallower depths for multi-level dives, extending our bottom time.
Steel 120s required significant adjustments for me, which was harder in combination with the novelty of Cozumel's environment. New Cozumel divers may want to familiarize themselves with the environment with normal tanks before they start using steel 120s. I had struggled with weight distribution and trim when I started diving, and I had to readjust to having so much weight on my back. The swim-throughs and strong current at some sites compounded this challenge. The disorientation increased my air consumption at first and eroded some of the additional bottom time until I adjusted.
I knew that heavier steel 120s enable divers to reduce the amount of lead that they wear, but my pre-trip research did not indicate how much one could safely deduct from one's normal weighting. The Aldora DM suggested removing 10 pounds from my normal lead, which turned out to be too much, as I became too positively buoyant toward the end of a dive, even after dumping the air from my BCD. Perhaps this reduction did not account for the tank's changing buoyancy as its air diminished. (Do steel 120s cause greater buoyancy changes toward the end of a dive than normal tanks due to lost air weight?) Removing 6 pounds from my normal lead worked best. I later asked other divers and heard similar answers, so I am curious as to why the DM removed so much lead. I would have preferred to err on the side of caution and adjust my weight conservatively and gradually, which is more consistent with the safety-driven practices that I observed elsewhere.
I read about the “dive your tank/computer” policy of many Cozumel operators in my research. I was the first one to surface during my first Aldora dives and did so alone, so that other divers could dive their tanks/computers. However, by the time that I reduced my air consumption to the point that I was no longer the first one that needed to surface and could have extended my dives, the DMs started making us surface together. The DM once aborted a dive for the whole group less than halfway through because one diver's computer malfunctioned. I do not know why he could not have surfaced alone or with a buddy and allowed the rest of us to continue the dive. I came to Aldora for longer bottom times, which I usually got, but I also got my shortest-ever dive: 30 minutes. It seems that Aldora had a dive your tank/computer policy most of the time, but not when it would have benefited me.
I read in my pre-trip research that many Cozumel operators to ask divers where they want to go. My main Aldora DM went through the motions of asking us but usually picked the sites himself. I requested any sites that usually had moderate or mild current, particularly after the strong current at sites that he selected. His non-verbal reaction suggested that he considered my request unfeasible. None of the other divers expressed any preferences, beyond a desire to see more marine life, with which I agreed. My main Aldora DM once accepted my suggestion of La Francesa, as it was close to our first dive site.
Aldora usually took us to two different types of sites on a two-tank morning trip. The first, deeper dive was usually at one of the many sections of the Colombia and Palancar reefs. These sites had elaborate, high-profile topography, such as walls, swim-throughs, or complex rock and coral formations. The current at such sites was typically mild. The coral and sponges were abundant, but mobile marine life was sparse. The second, shallower dive was usually at a flat, featureless site with strong current. Mobile marine life was abundant and diverse at these sites. Coral coverage was thin, but there were many large sponges and more plant life. Examples of such sites include Paso del Cedral, Punta Tunich, and Dalila.
If I had only dove with Aldora, I would have left Cozumel with the impression that those two opposite extremes dominated the island, and it would not have appealed to me as much. My interest in diving stems from my interest in marine life, especially of the mobile kind, with coral and sponges as a background. I appreciate interesting topography when it presents itself, but it is not enough of an attraction for me in its own right to drive my diving preferences, beyond its impact on water conditions and marine life. My pre-trip research did not reveal to me the extent to which topography accounted for the appeal of the popular Colombia and Palancar sites for other divers and the sparser mobile marine life at those sites. I now have a clearer idea of my own tastes as a diver and how they may differ from other divers' tastes. The second dives at the flat sites compensated with abundant mobile marine life, but the strong current at those sites made it hard to savor the experience for more than a few seconds before the current carries you away. As a diver in our group put it, “it was all a blur.”
I learned from dives with other operators that Cozumel has a third type of site with a “happy medium” between those two extremes. These sites had a balance of coral and mobile marine life and mild or moderate current. Examples of such sites include Yucab, Tormentos, Paradise Reef, and Chankanaab. I enjoyed these happy medium sites more than the opposite extremes that my usual Aldora DM preferred. I suggested some of these sites to him and received a non-verbal reaction that suggested disdain. Another, more accommodating Aldora DM did, however, take us to Yucab, which I suggested.
I learned one morning that Aldora had assigned me to a boat that was going to “the Devil's Throat.” This news surprised me, as I thought that this dive typically required a special request, enough training and experience, and a demonstration of adequate skill. I did not request it, I did not have enough dives at the time (less than 50, which seems to be the usual benchmark), and I had no cave training. Aldora's own guidelines indicate that they would not take divers there without a demonstration of adequate skill. Given the visible difficulties that I had experienced in adjusting to the steel 120s and the new environment, I was surprised that they thought that I had demonstrated enough skill to go there...or did they just put me on that boat because they wanted to fill it? The DM informed me that we would use Nitrox 32, which has a maximum operating depth of 111 feet, at a site with a maximum depth of 132 feet. The DM claimed that it was safe because of the short time that we would spend at that depth and because CNS toxicity really begins at 1.6 PPO, not at 1.4 PPO, the usual figure that adds a safety buffer of .2 PPO. A maximum PPO of 1.6 would allow us to use Nitrox 32 at 132 feet. I understood the logic behind this argument, but I questioned the wisdom of eliminating that safety buffer on a dive that already involved heightened risk. My facial expressions must have revealed my thoughts, as the DM asked me if I was comfortable with the Devil's Throat. I responded that I did not have the required or recommended training and experience for that dive. We went to another site instead.
Aldora's advertisement of “guaranteed” night dives each Wednesday and Saturday, even if only one diver wants to go, was another selling point, given my keen interest in night dives and the requirement of most operators for a minimum of three or four divers. Aldora's owner brought this selling point to my attention twice in response to my posts on this sub-forum.
Afternoon and Night Dive Bookings
Any Two-Tank Twilight Trips or Night Dives Next Week?
Aldora reiterated that these dives were “guaranteed” in email communications when I booked and reconfirmed my reservations. Lo and behold, I showed up for one of these “guaranteed” night dives, only to learn that they had canceled it because I was the only diver that still wanted to go. This “guarantee” sounded too good to be true, and perhaps I should have been more skeptical of it.
Aldora did have a two-tank twilight trip on the other “guaranteed” night. The night dive half of that trip was a good dive, but not as good as the night dives that I did with other operators, because the Aldora DM chose a site with strong current – again. Every other operator with whom I dove at night found a calm spot for night dives, given the difficulties that can result from the combination of darkness and current, but the Aldora DM could not or would not. The other divers struggled with the combination of darkness and current, and I got kicked in the face more on that dive than I have in my 50+ other dives put together.
Given the many factors above and my better experiences with other operators, I eventually canceled my remaining dives with Aldora.
Dive Operations: Tres Pelicanos, ScubaLuis, ScubaTony, and Deep Blue
3P had been my second choice after Aldora when I was initially researching operators, and in retrospect I would have had a better trip if I had originally booked with 3P instead. What struck me in 3P's reviews on this sub-forum and Trip Advisor was the enthusiasm and positive atmospherics of both 3P and their clients, and perhaps I should have chosen them on that basis instead. Their aluminum 100s did not extend bottom time as much as steel 120s, but they required less adjustment (I removed four pounds from my normal weighting) and extended bottom time enough for my purposes. 3P's smaller scale also enabled the more intimate customer service that I valued in other dive operations.
I did my first dive with 3P when Aldora canceled its “guaranteed” night dive at the last minute. I learned of a 3P dive that night from another user of this sub-forum (thank you again, if you are reading this), and 3P was able to accommodate me at literally the last minute, i.e. the DM showed up and learned that he had just gained another diver. The only problem was that I had a hard time finding large enough rental gear, a challenge that I encountered with three other smaller-scale operators on Cozumel, perhaps because the locals are smaller. This experience persuaded me to prioritize the acquisition of my own gear. Anyway, 3P took us to Paradise Reef, which I knew from my pre-trip research as a preferred site for night dives, and it was fantastic.
3P was able to accommodate me again on short notice after I canceled my last two days of diving with Aldora. There were other operators that I would have preferred (see below), but 3P was still an improvement over Aldora. Yes, the bottom times were shorter, but I enjoyed the dives and overall experience much more: a great 50-60 minute dive is better than a so-so 70-80 minute dive. The atmosphere on the boat and in interactions with other divers was also much more festive, which contributed to a better overall experience. The only problem was that the DM seemed forgetful when it came to certain pieces of equipment. The owner (if I am not mistaken) was often present at the shop, interacted with customers, displayed a sense of humor, and otherwise participated in day-to-day operations, which inspired my confidence and probably ensured quality service.
The 3P DM was very accommodating in the selection of dive sites, which resulted in “shorter but sweeter” dives and some of the best dives of my trip. For example, we had a fabulous dive at Tormentos, which I suggested because it was close to and sounded like other sites that I enjoyed (see my “happy medium” theory above). Other divers and even the DM raved about how great it was. He asked for suggestions for another site, and I asked if there were other sites like Tormentos. The DM conferred with another DM, who suggested Chankanaab Bolones, which was indeed like Tormentos. I also suggested Palancar Horseshoe, which struck me as one of the more interesting parts of Palancar from my pre-trip research, and indeed it was. The DM explained in the briefing that we might see blacktip reef sharks there, and we did indeed see three of them.
Before I left Aldora, I had hoped to book more two-tank twilight trips or night dives with them, but they did not have enough divers, so I looked elsewhere. I booked a two-tank twilight trip with another user of this sub-forum (thank you again, if you are reading this) with ScubaLuis. This small operator was willing to book a trip with only two divers; most require three or four. As far as I could tell, his operation consisted of Luis, his captain, and a boat. I found him on Trip Advisor, where he now has 59 reviews, every one of which has a 5-star rating. Trip Advisor ranks him relatively low, though, perhaps because his operation is new and has fewer reviews, despite their consistently high quality. His operation highlights the advantages and disadvantages of using Trip Advisor to find operators: I would not have found him any other way (there are no references to him on this sub-forum), but Trip Advisor's rankings obscure his consistently impeccable reviews.
I see why he consistently receives 5-star reviews (if the other diver with whom I booked this trip is reading this, feel free to chime in). The night dive on our two-tank twilight trip was fantastic and one of the best dives in my experience thus far. He had Nitrox but did not have larger tanks, but these shorter two dives, especially the night dive, more than compensated for their shorter duration with their higher quality. Beyond the diving itself, the customer service was top-notch, including one of the most entertaining and informative surface intervals in my experience thus far, in which he shared with us his knowledge of the island and its diving community. He drove us back to our hotel, as it would have been difficult to find a taxi in the marina that late at night. He would have been my first choice as a replacement for Aldora, but his boat was already full (I see why).
Luis used to be a DM for ScubaTony, Cozumel's highest-ranked operator on TripAdvisor; he left due to an ownership change and started his own operation. Well, it's a small world, and as luck would have it, I had also booked a two-tank twilight trip with ScubaTony, as they already had enough divers. The style and quality of diving and customer service at ScubaTony was similar, albeit less intimate, as it is a larger operation (two boats) and we had a larger group (four divers). Their website said at the time that they did not have Nitrox, but they had actually just started providing Nitrox and had not updated their website. They do have aluminum 100s, but not for Nitrox.
The ScubaTony DM distinguished himself in his efforts to provide the best possible dives. All four divers agreed that we wanted a site with minimal current, so the DM jumped in the water to test the current at one site but found that it was too strong for our tastes. They took us instead to a calm section of Yucab that yielded one of the best dives of my trip, as it was crawling with critters. We did not have a set route but just explored the area and savored the experience at our leisure. The DM observed our explorations closely enough that he correctly deduced our tastes in marine life. He thus suggested as the site of our night dive a section of Chankanaab that he thought would be a good fit for our tastes, and indeed it was. The DM was very proactive in showing us the many nocturnal critters at this spot and had us cover our lights for a demonstration of plankton bioluminescence. The atmosphere on the boat was enthusiastic as we discussed our sightings, and the other divers suggested destinations that they thought I would like, based on our experience at these sites: the Blue Heron Bridge in Florida and muck diving in Indonesia's Lembeh Strait.
The new moon coincided with my trip, and I was determined to dive that night in order to see critters that one might not see on other nights. I found Deep Blue on Trip Advisor and learned that they had a dive that night. The DM was French, the only foreign DM that I met. He gave our group of four divers some nocturnal critter-spotting tips and taught us to shield our dive lights partially with our fingers in order to avoid scaring away light-sensitive critters, which enabled us to savor displays by an octopus and a pair of squid (my first-ever sighting) at great length. He displayed strong critter-spotting skills, including a juvenile scorpionfish that could not have been bigger than my thumbnail, and a red-lipped batfish, which surprised even him.
(continued in next post on this thread)
Dive Sites and Marine Life
I would group the dive sites that I visited into three categories. The high-profile sites had elaborate topography, e.g. walls, swim-throughs, and complex coral and rock formations, with mild or negligible current, perhaps because the topography mitigated it. Coral and sponges were abundant. Mobile marine life seemed sparse; to the extent that it was evident, it was either large (turtles, sharks) or small (nudibranchs, arrow crabs). Most of the Colombia and Palancar sites that I saw were similar, with the exception of Palancar Gardens, which was my favorite section of Palancar and was much more beautiful (IMO):
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:16am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:17am UTC
Colombia and Palancar are probably great for topography-driven divers, but the relative scarcity of mobile marine life made it harder for me to appreciate them. The parts of these dives that I enjoyed the most were usually toward the end, when we ascended to a shallower depth for a multi-level dive, where there was often richer coral growth, more critters, and better lighting. My best photos from these dives were often during these shallower parts and even during safety stops. Photographers may want to use wide-angle lenses at these high-profile sites for seascapes and larger marine life.
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 8:16pm UTC
https://www.instagram.com/p/BVLA-mYgkrw/
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 8:19pm UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:45am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:44am UTC
The low-profile sites were flat and often featureless, with strong current, perhaps because there was little or no structure to mitigate it. Mobile marine life of all kinds was abundant, the sponges were larger than elsewhere, and the plant growth was more extensive, but coral coverage was thinner. Here are some examples from Paso del Cedral, Punta Tunich, and Dalila.
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:08am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 3:54am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 4:02am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:28am UTC
I came to Cozumel to see the critters, and in that regard these sites definitely delivered in a technical sense, but the strong current made it difficult or impossible to savor the experience. One can often seek shelter from the current behind or under rocks, coral heads, or large sponges, and one will often find that a critter has already claimed the good spots – such as this nurse shark. The way I see it, if the current is so strong that even the marine life needs to seek shelter from it, then perhaps we terrestrial animals should dive somewhere else.
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 3:18pm UTC
If you are taking photos, these sites may be frustrating, because there are so many subjects, but it is hard to stay in position in order to capture them, unless both you and they are hiding from the current. Photographers might want to use higher shutter speeds in order to reduce the risk of motion blur.
The medium-profile dive sites that I enjoyed the most were further north: Yucab, Chankanaab, Tormentos, and Paradise Reef. These sites had a balanced mix of critters and coral and either just enough current to push you along at a moderate pace, or hardly any at all, enabling you to explore in whatever direction and at whatever pace you want. Photographers may want to use macro lenses at these medium-profile sites. For example, here is Chankanaab Bolones:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:46am UTC
My favorite was Yucab, where just three coral heads had enough critters to keep us busy for hours:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:00am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:10am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:15am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 4:05am UTC
Sea turtles were definitely the highlight of Cozumel's marine life for me. I had only seen one from a boat once, but I must have seen at least a dozen during this trip. I even saw one as I surfaced:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:25am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:31am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:23am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:24am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:20am UTC
The best turtle sightings were when they where eating, as angelfish gathered around them to eat their crumbs. I observed this phenomenon twice:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 3:56am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:28am UTC
Another phenomenon that I observed more on Cozumel than anywhere else was animals in pairs. I knew that some species, such as filefish, live in pairs, but I even saw such pairings even in animals that I thought were solitary, such as green morays. I also saw pairs of turtles, lobsters, and squid:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:15am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:13am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:04am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:42am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 4:02am UTC
I saw more lobsters during the day than I might have expected, including one that sought shelter from the current inside a sponge:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:21am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:12am UTC
Hermit crabs and arrow crabs are quite common, including this arrow crab that also sought shelter from the current inside a sponge:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 3:58am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:19am UTC
There were quite a few sea cucumbers:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:18am UTC
I saw my first-ever scorpionfish:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 4:00am UTC
I saw three juvenile spotted drums, two of which were at Chankanaab Bolones:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:58am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:48am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:22am UTC
The angelfish were larger and more common than anywhere else I had seen them before:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:08am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 3:54am UTC
I saw some enormous parrotfish, one of which must have been at least five feet long:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 3:59am UTC
The honeycomb cowfish were, in my opinion, the most aesthetically pleasing fish on the island:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 3:56am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:01am UTC
I saw three splendid toadfish, but they are hard to see clearly so deep in their hiding places, let alone photograph. You can hear their mating call quite distinctly at night, though. Other nocturnal critters, beyond the usual lobsters, crabs, octopus, and squid, included spotted moray eels, which I never saw during the day but frequently saw out in the open at night. Of greater interest to me were the sea basket stars, which close during the day but open at night. I had no idea what these were until the DM explained it later. New night divers should prepare for swarms of bloodworms, which dive lights and backlit dive computers attract like moths to a flame. The ScubaTony DM showed us a trick to rid ourselves of them: let the coral polyps eat them. They are more common during safety stops, though. The new moon brought out a larger pelagic worm-like critter that I have still been unable to identify; it looked like a stretched-out version of the face-huggers from the Alien series. The new moon also brought out a benthic worm that I think might have been a bobbit worm.
This was the first trip that I devoted entirely to diving. My prior dives in other places were on broader trips or trips that I devoted half to diving and half to another hobby. I chose Cozumel for my first pure dive trip because, unlike many other top-notch spots, it has enough to do topside if one cannot dive in the afternoon or at night. This issue turned out to be moot, as I found dives for most of those times.
This trip marked other milestones for me. I logged 20+ dives in about a week, bringing me past the 50 dives benchmark. I now know that I can handle and enjoy a high volume of dives, often doing 4 dives a day. When I was out of the water, I could not wait to get wet again, even when the diving had not gone as well as I hoped. This trip persuaded me that I am ready for the “terrestrial liveaboard” or “dive camp” environments of Bonaire and Roatan, which are next on my bucket list, as well as liveaboards. It renewed my passion for night dives, which I acquired during my AOWD night dive and reinforced with five night dives in Cozumel. This experience also advanced my ability to handle more complex and challenging dive environments and planning, refined my understanding of my own taste, and taught me lessons in the selection of dive environments, operators, and equipment.
I generally used Trip Advisor to find dive operators for prior trips in other places. I relied more on this Cozumel sub-forum for this trip, particularly its “Top Ten” list. I was skeptical of Trip Advisor rankings, which lend greater weight to higher-volume operators with more reviews, and the merits of some opinions of some reviewers. I read Trip Advisor reviews for the Top Ten operators in order to evaluate them, but in retrospect I wish that I had complemented that list with Trip Advisor as a source of other operators. Because the main operator that I originally chose from the Top Ten list did not have enough divers for the two-tank twilight trips and night dives that I wanted, I also dove with other operators that I later found on Trip Advisor but were not on the Top Ten list; I might have chosen them as my main daytime operators if I had originally used Trip Advisor as a source of candidates, and I might have had a better trip if I had done so. My better experiences with other operators in the afternoons and evenings eventually led me to change operators for my morning trips too.
(continued in next post on this thread)
Dive Operations: Aldora
I initially chose Aldora as my main operator, given its reputation here. Other selling points were steel 120 tanks and two weekly night dives. Its large scale gave me pause, as I thought that smaller operators provide better customer service and more enjoyable experiences. The reasonable size of its groups (no more than 6 divers) mitigated such concerns, and I hoped that its larger diver base would create more opportunities for the afternoon, night, and two-tank twilight trips that I wanted. I also hoped that its larger client base would make it easier to put me on a boat with other divers whose experience and skill levels were like mine, which may be harder for smaller operators.
Steel 120 tanks definitely yield longer bottom times. Aldora advertises an average of 70 minutes, and most of my bottom times were similar or better. I had my longest-ever bottom time of 80 minutes, and other divers logged 90 minutes. I occasionally approached the NDL even on Nitrox, so we ascended to shallower depths for multi-level dives, extending our bottom time.
Steel 120s required significant adjustments for me, which was harder in combination with the novelty of Cozumel's environment. New Cozumel divers may want to familiarize themselves with the environment with normal tanks before they start using steel 120s. I had struggled with weight distribution and trim when I started diving, and I had to readjust to having so much weight on my back. The swim-throughs and strong current at some sites compounded this challenge. The disorientation increased my air consumption at first and eroded some of the additional bottom time until I adjusted.
I knew that heavier steel 120s enable divers to reduce the amount of lead that they wear, but my pre-trip research did not indicate how much one could safely deduct from one's normal weighting. The Aldora DM suggested removing 10 pounds from my normal lead, which turned out to be too much, as I became too positively buoyant toward the end of a dive, even after dumping the air from my BCD. Perhaps this reduction did not account for the tank's changing buoyancy as its air diminished. (Do steel 120s cause greater buoyancy changes toward the end of a dive than normal tanks due to lost air weight?) Removing 6 pounds from my normal lead worked best. I later asked other divers and heard similar answers, so I am curious as to why the DM removed so much lead. I would have preferred to err on the side of caution and adjust my weight conservatively and gradually, which is more consistent with the safety-driven practices that I observed elsewhere.
I read about the “dive your tank/computer” policy of many Cozumel operators in my research. I was the first one to surface during my first Aldora dives and did so alone, so that other divers could dive their tanks/computers. However, by the time that I reduced my air consumption to the point that I was no longer the first one that needed to surface and could have extended my dives, the DMs started making us surface together. The DM once aborted a dive for the whole group less than halfway through because one diver's computer malfunctioned. I do not know why he could not have surfaced alone or with a buddy and allowed the rest of us to continue the dive. I came to Aldora for longer bottom times, which I usually got, but I also got my shortest-ever dive: 30 minutes. It seems that Aldora had a dive your tank/computer policy most of the time, but not when it would have benefited me.
I read in my pre-trip research that many Cozumel operators to ask divers where they want to go. My main Aldora DM went through the motions of asking us but usually picked the sites himself. I requested any sites that usually had moderate or mild current, particularly after the strong current at sites that he selected. His non-verbal reaction suggested that he considered my request unfeasible. None of the other divers expressed any preferences, beyond a desire to see more marine life, with which I agreed. My main Aldora DM once accepted my suggestion of La Francesa, as it was close to our first dive site.
Aldora usually took us to two different types of sites on a two-tank morning trip. The first, deeper dive was usually at one of the many sections of the Colombia and Palancar reefs. These sites had elaborate, high-profile topography, such as walls, swim-throughs, or complex rock and coral formations. The current at such sites was typically mild. The coral and sponges were abundant, but mobile marine life was sparse. The second, shallower dive was usually at a flat, featureless site with strong current. Mobile marine life was abundant and diverse at these sites. Coral coverage was thin, but there were many large sponges and more plant life. Examples of such sites include Paso del Cedral, Punta Tunich, and Dalila.
If I had only dove with Aldora, I would have left Cozumel with the impression that those two opposite extremes dominated the island, and it would not have appealed to me as much. My interest in diving stems from my interest in marine life, especially of the mobile kind, with coral and sponges as a background. I appreciate interesting topography when it presents itself, but it is not enough of an attraction for me in its own right to drive my diving preferences, beyond its impact on water conditions and marine life. My pre-trip research did not reveal to me the extent to which topography accounted for the appeal of the popular Colombia and Palancar sites for other divers and the sparser mobile marine life at those sites. I now have a clearer idea of my own tastes as a diver and how they may differ from other divers' tastes. The second dives at the flat sites compensated with abundant mobile marine life, but the strong current at those sites made it hard to savor the experience for more than a few seconds before the current carries you away. As a diver in our group put it, “it was all a blur.”
I learned from dives with other operators that Cozumel has a third type of site with a “happy medium” between those two extremes. These sites had a balance of coral and mobile marine life and mild or moderate current. Examples of such sites include Yucab, Tormentos, Paradise Reef, and Chankanaab. I enjoyed these happy medium sites more than the opposite extremes that my usual Aldora DM preferred. I suggested some of these sites to him and received a non-verbal reaction that suggested disdain. Another, more accommodating Aldora DM did, however, take us to Yucab, which I suggested.
I learned one morning that Aldora had assigned me to a boat that was going to “the Devil's Throat.” This news surprised me, as I thought that this dive typically required a special request, enough training and experience, and a demonstration of adequate skill. I did not request it, I did not have enough dives at the time (less than 50, which seems to be the usual benchmark), and I had no cave training. Aldora's own guidelines indicate that they would not take divers there without a demonstration of adequate skill. Given the visible difficulties that I had experienced in adjusting to the steel 120s and the new environment, I was surprised that they thought that I had demonstrated enough skill to go there...or did they just put me on that boat because they wanted to fill it? The DM informed me that we would use Nitrox 32, which has a maximum operating depth of 111 feet, at a site with a maximum depth of 132 feet. The DM claimed that it was safe because of the short time that we would spend at that depth and because CNS toxicity really begins at 1.6 PPO, not at 1.4 PPO, the usual figure that adds a safety buffer of .2 PPO. A maximum PPO of 1.6 would allow us to use Nitrox 32 at 132 feet. I understood the logic behind this argument, but I questioned the wisdom of eliminating that safety buffer on a dive that already involved heightened risk. My facial expressions must have revealed my thoughts, as the DM asked me if I was comfortable with the Devil's Throat. I responded that I did not have the required or recommended training and experience for that dive. We went to another site instead.
Aldora's advertisement of “guaranteed” night dives each Wednesday and Saturday, even if only one diver wants to go, was another selling point, given my keen interest in night dives and the requirement of most operators for a minimum of three or four divers. Aldora's owner brought this selling point to my attention twice in response to my posts on this sub-forum.
Afternoon and Night Dive Bookings
Any Two-Tank Twilight Trips or Night Dives Next Week?
Aldora reiterated that these dives were “guaranteed” in email communications when I booked and reconfirmed my reservations. Lo and behold, I showed up for one of these “guaranteed” night dives, only to learn that they had canceled it because I was the only diver that still wanted to go. This “guarantee” sounded too good to be true, and perhaps I should have been more skeptical of it.
Aldora did have a two-tank twilight trip on the other “guaranteed” night. The night dive half of that trip was a good dive, but not as good as the night dives that I did with other operators, because the Aldora DM chose a site with strong current – again. Every other operator with whom I dove at night found a calm spot for night dives, given the difficulties that can result from the combination of darkness and current, but the Aldora DM could not or would not. The other divers struggled with the combination of darkness and current, and I got kicked in the face more on that dive than I have in my 50+ other dives put together.
Given the many factors above and my better experiences with other operators, I eventually canceled my remaining dives with Aldora.
Dive Operations: Tres Pelicanos, ScubaLuis, ScubaTony, and Deep Blue
3P had been my second choice after Aldora when I was initially researching operators, and in retrospect I would have had a better trip if I had originally booked with 3P instead. What struck me in 3P's reviews on this sub-forum and Trip Advisor was the enthusiasm and positive atmospherics of both 3P and their clients, and perhaps I should have chosen them on that basis instead. Their aluminum 100s did not extend bottom time as much as steel 120s, but they required less adjustment (I removed four pounds from my normal weighting) and extended bottom time enough for my purposes. 3P's smaller scale also enabled the more intimate customer service that I valued in other dive operations.
I did my first dive with 3P when Aldora canceled its “guaranteed” night dive at the last minute. I learned of a 3P dive that night from another user of this sub-forum (thank you again, if you are reading this), and 3P was able to accommodate me at literally the last minute, i.e. the DM showed up and learned that he had just gained another diver. The only problem was that I had a hard time finding large enough rental gear, a challenge that I encountered with three other smaller-scale operators on Cozumel, perhaps because the locals are smaller. This experience persuaded me to prioritize the acquisition of my own gear. Anyway, 3P took us to Paradise Reef, which I knew from my pre-trip research as a preferred site for night dives, and it was fantastic.
3P was able to accommodate me again on short notice after I canceled my last two days of diving with Aldora. There were other operators that I would have preferred (see below), but 3P was still an improvement over Aldora. Yes, the bottom times were shorter, but I enjoyed the dives and overall experience much more: a great 50-60 minute dive is better than a so-so 70-80 minute dive. The atmosphere on the boat and in interactions with other divers was also much more festive, which contributed to a better overall experience. The only problem was that the DM seemed forgetful when it came to certain pieces of equipment. The owner (if I am not mistaken) was often present at the shop, interacted with customers, displayed a sense of humor, and otherwise participated in day-to-day operations, which inspired my confidence and probably ensured quality service.
The 3P DM was very accommodating in the selection of dive sites, which resulted in “shorter but sweeter” dives and some of the best dives of my trip. For example, we had a fabulous dive at Tormentos, which I suggested because it was close to and sounded like other sites that I enjoyed (see my “happy medium” theory above). Other divers and even the DM raved about how great it was. He asked for suggestions for another site, and I asked if there were other sites like Tormentos. The DM conferred with another DM, who suggested Chankanaab Bolones, which was indeed like Tormentos. I also suggested Palancar Horseshoe, which struck me as one of the more interesting parts of Palancar from my pre-trip research, and indeed it was. The DM explained in the briefing that we might see blacktip reef sharks there, and we did indeed see three of them.
Before I left Aldora, I had hoped to book more two-tank twilight trips or night dives with them, but they did not have enough divers, so I looked elsewhere. I booked a two-tank twilight trip with another user of this sub-forum (thank you again, if you are reading this) with ScubaLuis. This small operator was willing to book a trip with only two divers; most require three or four. As far as I could tell, his operation consisted of Luis, his captain, and a boat. I found him on Trip Advisor, where he now has 59 reviews, every one of which has a 5-star rating. Trip Advisor ranks him relatively low, though, perhaps because his operation is new and has fewer reviews, despite their consistently high quality. His operation highlights the advantages and disadvantages of using Trip Advisor to find operators: I would not have found him any other way (there are no references to him on this sub-forum), but Trip Advisor's rankings obscure his consistently impeccable reviews.
I see why he consistently receives 5-star reviews (if the other diver with whom I booked this trip is reading this, feel free to chime in). The night dive on our two-tank twilight trip was fantastic and one of the best dives in my experience thus far. He had Nitrox but did not have larger tanks, but these shorter two dives, especially the night dive, more than compensated for their shorter duration with their higher quality. Beyond the diving itself, the customer service was top-notch, including one of the most entertaining and informative surface intervals in my experience thus far, in which he shared with us his knowledge of the island and its diving community. He drove us back to our hotel, as it would have been difficult to find a taxi in the marina that late at night. He would have been my first choice as a replacement for Aldora, but his boat was already full (I see why).
Luis used to be a DM for ScubaTony, Cozumel's highest-ranked operator on TripAdvisor; he left due to an ownership change and started his own operation. Well, it's a small world, and as luck would have it, I had also booked a two-tank twilight trip with ScubaTony, as they already had enough divers. The style and quality of diving and customer service at ScubaTony was similar, albeit less intimate, as it is a larger operation (two boats) and we had a larger group (four divers). Their website said at the time that they did not have Nitrox, but they had actually just started providing Nitrox and had not updated their website. They do have aluminum 100s, but not for Nitrox.
The ScubaTony DM distinguished himself in his efforts to provide the best possible dives. All four divers agreed that we wanted a site with minimal current, so the DM jumped in the water to test the current at one site but found that it was too strong for our tastes. They took us instead to a calm section of Yucab that yielded one of the best dives of my trip, as it was crawling with critters. We did not have a set route but just explored the area and savored the experience at our leisure. The DM observed our explorations closely enough that he correctly deduced our tastes in marine life. He thus suggested as the site of our night dive a section of Chankanaab that he thought would be a good fit for our tastes, and indeed it was. The DM was very proactive in showing us the many nocturnal critters at this spot and had us cover our lights for a demonstration of plankton bioluminescence. The atmosphere on the boat was enthusiastic as we discussed our sightings, and the other divers suggested destinations that they thought I would like, based on our experience at these sites: the Blue Heron Bridge in Florida and muck diving in Indonesia's Lembeh Strait.
The new moon coincided with my trip, and I was determined to dive that night in order to see critters that one might not see on other nights. I found Deep Blue on Trip Advisor and learned that they had a dive that night. The DM was French, the only foreign DM that I met. He gave our group of four divers some nocturnal critter-spotting tips and taught us to shield our dive lights partially with our fingers in order to avoid scaring away light-sensitive critters, which enabled us to savor displays by an octopus and a pair of squid (my first-ever sighting) at great length. He displayed strong critter-spotting skills, including a juvenile scorpionfish that could not have been bigger than my thumbnail, and a red-lipped batfish, which surprised even him.
(continued in next post on this thread)
Dive Sites and Marine Life
I would group the dive sites that I visited into three categories. The high-profile sites had elaborate topography, e.g. walls, swim-throughs, and complex coral and rock formations, with mild or negligible current, perhaps because the topography mitigated it. Coral and sponges were abundant. Mobile marine life seemed sparse; to the extent that it was evident, it was either large (turtles, sharks) or small (nudibranchs, arrow crabs). Most of the Colombia and Palancar sites that I saw were similar, with the exception of Palancar Gardens, which was my favorite section of Palancar and was much more beautiful (IMO):
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:16am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:17am UTC
Colombia and Palancar are probably great for topography-driven divers, but the relative scarcity of mobile marine life made it harder for me to appreciate them. The parts of these dives that I enjoyed the most were usually toward the end, when we ascended to a shallower depth for a multi-level dive, where there was often richer coral growth, more critters, and better lighting. My best photos from these dives were often during these shallower parts and even during safety stops. Photographers may want to use wide-angle lenses at these high-profile sites for seascapes and larger marine life.
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 8:16pm UTC
https://www.instagram.com/p/BVLA-mYgkrw/
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 8:19pm UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:45am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:44am UTC
The low-profile sites were flat and often featureless, with strong current, perhaps because there was little or no structure to mitigate it. Mobile marine life of all kinds was abundant, the sponges were larger than elsewhere, and the plant growth was more extensive, but coral coverage was thinner. Here are some examples from Paso del Cedral, Punta Tunich, and Dalila.
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:08am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 3:54am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 4:02am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:28am UTC
I came to Cozumel to see the critters, and in that regard these sites definitely delivered in a technical sense, but the strong current made it difficult or impossible to savor the experience. One can often seek shelter from the current behind or under rocks, coral heads, or large sponges, and one will often find that a critter has already claimed the good spots – such as this nurse shark. The way I see it, if the current is so strong that even the marine life needs to seek shelter from it, then perhaps we terrestrial animals should dive somewhere else.
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 3:18pm UTC
If you are taking photos, these sites may be frustrating, because there are so many subjects, but it is hard to stay in position in order to capture them, unless both you and they are hiding from the current. Photographers might want to use higher shutter speeds in order to reduce the risk of motion blur.
The medium-profile dive sites that I enjoyed the most were further north: Yucab, Chankanaab, Tormentos, and Paradise Reef. These sites had a balanced mix of critters and coral and either just enough current to push you along at a moderate pace, or hardly any at all, enabling you to explore in whatever direction and at whatever pace you want. Photographers may want to use macro lenses at these medium-profile sites. For example, here is Chankanaab Bolones:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:46am UTC
My favorite was Yucab, where just three coral heads had enough critters to keep us busy for hours:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:00am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:10am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:15am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 4:05am UTC
Sea turtles were definitely the highlight of Cozumel's marine life for me. I had only seen one from a boat once, but I must have seen at least a dozen during this trip. I even saw one as I surfaced:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:25am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:31am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:23am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:24am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:20am UTC
The best turtle sightings were when they where eating, as angelfish gathered around them to eat their crumbs. I observed this phenomenon twice:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 3:56am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:28am UTC
Another phenomenon that I observed more on Cozumel than anywhere else was animals in pairs. I knew that some species, such as filefish, live in pairs, but I even saw such pairings even in animals that I thought were solitary, such as green morays. I also saw pairs of turtles, lobsters, and squid:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:15am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:13am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:04am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:42am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 4:02am UTC
I saw more lobsters during the day than I might have expected, including one that sought shelter from the current inside a sponge:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:21am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:12am UTC
Hermit crabs and arrow crabs are quite common, including this arrow crab that also sought shelter from the current inside a sponge:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 3:58am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:19am UTC
There were quite a few sea cucumbers:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:18am UTC
I saw my first-ever scorpionfish:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 4:00am UTC
I saw three juvenile spotted drums, two of which were at Chankanaab Bolones:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:58am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 10, 2017 at 2:48am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 6, 2017 at 3:22am UTC
The angelfish were larger and more common than anywhere else I had seen them before:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:08am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 3:54am UTC
I saw some enormous parrotfish, one of which must have been at least five feet long:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 3:59am UTC
The honeycomb cowfish were, in my opinion, the most aesthetically pleasing fish on the island:
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 9, 2017 at 3:56am UTC
Instagram post by Paul • Jun 8, 2017 at 4:01am UTC
I saw three splendid toadfish, but they are hard to see clearly so deep in their hiding places, let alone photograph. You can hear their mating call quite distinctly at night, though. Other nocturnal critters, beyond the usual lobsters, crabs, octopus, and squid, included spotted moray eels, which I never saw during the day but frequently saw out in the open at night. Of greater interest to me were the sea basket stars, which close during the day but open at night. I had no idea what these were until the DM explained it later. New night divers should prepare for swarms of bloodworms, which dive lights and backlit dive computers attract like moths to a flame. The ScubaTony DM showed us a trick to rid ourselves of them: let the coral polyps eat them. They are more common during safety stops, though. The new moon brought out a larger pelagic worm-like critter that I have still been unable to identify; it looked like a stretched-out version of the face-huggers from the Alien series. The new moon also brought out a benthic worm that I think might have been a bobbit worm.
Last edited by a moderator:
