Trip Report Cozumel, February/March 2025: diving and lots of restaurants

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Cornbread O'Malley

Contributor
Messages
214
Reaction score
170
Location
Texas, USA
# of dives
200 - 499
Three-week stay on Cozumel from mid-February to early March 2025 on my most recent trip to the island. Water temperature mid-February to early March averaged 81° Fahrenheit. Air temperatures reached highs of mid-80s, lows of mid-70s on most days. A front did come through that cooled air temperatures down to mid-60s for a few days. I dived and sampled a lot of the restaurants and eateries on the island.

This time around I chartered my boat dives through a family-run operation via divemaster Geiser (pics 1 & 2). Geiser was a DM at Scuba Club Cozumel for many years before Scuba Club folded. He now runs independent charters with family-owned boats.

I thoroughly enjoyed the charters for several reasons: 1) maximum 5 or 6 divers per charter, 2) Geiser has an incredible knack of finding the smaller marine life, 3) Geiser has extensive knowledge of each dive site’s topography, 4) he uses his knowledge of the conditions to recommend and lead dives to sites to increase the chances of seeing certain marine life.

Geiser asked $110 USD for my first 2-tank charter with him. He asked $100 USD for all subsequent charters. Nitrox 32% cost $12 USD per cylinder. I tipped after each charter; all my monetary transactions were in cash. I dived air for all my dives except for the last two charters when I needed to factor off-gassing considerations prior to my airplane ride; I dived nitrox 32%. The biggest monetary advantage of chartering with Geiser was that I did not pay the $12 USD marine park fee for each day of diving. No wrist bands needed!

Each charter had a boat captain whose sole job is to command the boat. Also, two deck hands to assist with the divers and equipment handling. Geiser as the divemaster. The limited amount of divers combined with swift handling of equipment and boat ensured a very efficient departure each day that I dived. The charter stopped at Cozumel Palace to board and drop off two divers on each charter that I went on.

During service intervals, fresh fruit, sandwiches (pic 3), and fresh guacamole (pic 4) and chips were offered. A large cooler with ice kept soft drinks and water beverages cold. Beer of the Superior brand was offered after the dives.

I found departure and return times to the marina to be advantageous. The days started early. I was solo on island, and Geiser offered complimentary rides to Caleta marina in his car. He picked me up each day at 715AM. The boat departed the marina around 8AM with whoever divers chose to meet there. Some divers chose to rent a car, drive to the marina, and park. At the early morning hours parking posed no problem. I thought this more advantageous than the parking situation at marina Fonatur. The boat returned to Caleta marina around noon. I really enjoyed this because Geiser dropped me off at my hotel at around 1230PM, which left me more time in the day to do whatever I wanted to.

As for the boat, it was comfortable, had a marine head in the bow with some storage space, and offered some protection from the sun and wind. Divers can opt to enter the water via giant stride off the platform at the stern (pic 5) or backroll off the sides.

I noted some disadvantages with going with Geiser’s charters. Geiser will not run charters on days when he does not have enough divers. This may be negotiable, and I am not exactly sure what his minimums are. All the charters I went on had at least three divers. The other disadvantage is that no analyzer was on the boat to analyze the nitrox cylinders. I just trusted the fill and rolled with it. Another disadvantage is getting to Caleta marina. Geiser can accommodate single pickups, but he only has so much space in his car. Divers can rent a car or scooter and get themselves to the marina; parking is not an issue at 730AM. Taxis are another option, but that can get costly. Pier pickups cost money depending on the hotel.

If you want to charter Geiser’s boat, you can contact him via Facebook. He is on there as Scuba Geiser.
 

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I saw some interesting things during the dives:

Seahorse at Paradise Reef: Coz pics

Pic 6: Octopus eating a conch during daylight.

Pic 7: Remora hanging around a nurse shark. The nurse shark had its head underneath a coral overhang and the rest of its body out in the open where the remora was dancing around.

Pic 8: A sailfin blenny out in the open. I don’t see many of these outside their shelter.

Pic 9: Same sailfin blenny darting away to its shelter.

I also went out to a site called Eagle Ray Place up around the north part of the island and saw lots of eagle rays cruising about.
 

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I dived some other locations around the Caribbean over the past few years:

Cozumel, December 2022;

Belize via Belize Aggressor III liveaboard, July 2023;

Cozumel, December 2023;

Roatan, West End and the sites on the north, March 2024;

Key Largo, April 2024 (technically South Florida is not Caribbean; I just included it for comparison purposes);

Cozumel, December 2024;

Bonaire, January 2025.

I highly enjoy the diving available at Cozumel. The overall costs, restaurant options, and options for non-diving activities make Cozumel a wonderful visit each time. I find reef health at Cozumel to be the healthiest and colorful (outside of the Belize liveaboard experience) of all the locations listed above.

What follows is a list of the restaurants and eateries that I found worth noting.
 
Cochinita at the Municipal Market

On Saturdays and Sundays, cochinita is served at a stall at the municipal market. I read that cochinita pibil is cooked with a whole suckling pig. I don’t think what is served at the municipal market is suckling pig; I think it is pork shoulder. I asked for a serving of three tacos with the cochinita. Provided were some garnishments of pickled onions and a spicy sauce. The dish is a great snack while walking around town on the weekends.
 

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El Sazon del Camaron

I sampled some ceviche at this local restaurant. First, I tried the mixed ceviche consisting of octopus, conch, and shrimp. Second, I tried the aguachile. I never tried aguachile before and didn’t know what to expect. I was served my order and likened the dish to a “ceviche stew.” It had shrimp, avocado, red onions, cucumbers, all submerged in lime juice. I found it best to eat with the chips to reduce the bite of the lime. I probably won’t order this dish again, but it was good to taste once.
 

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Taqueria Chilangos

This restaurant on Avenue 30 is one of those places where you need some knowledge of the Spanish language. No English spoken at this restaurant. I went in the evening and tried the bistec encebollado first (pic 20); I thought it was average. There was nothing about it that would encourage me to order it again. The waitress said they have huaraches as options, and since I never tried a huarache, I ordered a huarache carnitas de puerco (pic 21) out of curiosity. What I was served made my palate explode! It was a tortilla with a layer of refried beans topped with a mixture of pulled pork and lettuce with cheese. I found the flavor of the pork to be astounding and something I would order again! I ordered an horchata to go with the food.
 

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El Pez Cozon

I sampled this seafood restaurant because the concierge lady at my hotel suggested it. I ordered the pulpo al poc chuc (pics 23 & 24) because it sounded like the most interesting item on the menu. It was octopus marinated in a type of orange sauce with herbs and grilled. The octopus’s beak was still in it, so I had to probe for it with my knife to remove. I found the dish to be quite unique and delicious. A few days later I walked to La Perlita to try some of their offerings but found the restaurant closed. A street party was happening out front; I walked back to El Pez Cozon and ordered the escochin tacos, oceanic triggerfish tacos (pic 25). They were alright and did not have the level of flavor that I would like.
 

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La Herradura

This restaurant piqued my interest after I walked by it several times. I finally stopped in to give it a try. The place is quite small, and the food comes out looking like how my grandmother or mother would serve at home. I ordered the pechuga de pollo a la parilla, grilled chicken breast (pic 27) with vegetables and french fries. For beverage I ordered agua de Jamaica, hibiscus tea. There are many options on the menu for such a small restaurant.
 

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Sucre / Sale Café

I read about this place on the Cozumel forum and went to check it out. I tried one of their tarts and found it was not to my liking. But I bought some other pastries and a cup of cappuccino de cajeta that I enjoyed while sitting outside and watching people pass by.
 

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Del Sur Parilla Argentina

The only time I ordered steak during my visit, and I made sure to order a good one. I started with veal sweet bread tacos (pic 36) and then ordered the bife ancho, the ribeye Angus steak (pic 37). The waiter told me this item was the only item that came from Argentina while the other steak choices did not. The menu listed a 400-gram steak size, but waiter said only 700 grams was available the evening I went. I ordered the 700 grams and ended up eating most of it when the other guest had her fill. I found the depiction of Lionel Messi at the bottom of the menu rather amusing (pic 39).
 

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