Convoluted lens/housing question

[Flotsum]

I'm hoping that someone is willing to tackle a somewhat multi-part question.

I'm very seriously considering going on a somewhat unique trip with Aquatic Adventures, who advertise the opportunity to "soft-in-water" encounter with humpback whales, that is, to snorkel in close proximity with them. The process, is meant to be whale friendly; no diving or approaching the whales, and no flash photography. Snorkeling is done in water with 20-50 foot visibility and sometimes better. For a description of this process and samples of some of the imagery that can be captured, See the photos in the Whales of the Silver Bank section of Aquaticadventures.com

I'm a fairly proficient photographer with an ancient dive certificate but no experience with underwater photography. I mention this so if my assumptions are wrong from the git-go, someone can set me straight. The photography is very much my principal reason for considering this trip.

My thought is to get an Ikelite housing for my D 300, as the best option for getting the best imagery. An expensive option, but I could sell the housing right after the trip.

1. Assuming that this is a reasonable course of action, would a Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70 3.5-4.5 G lens work for this kind of situation? I also have a AF 2.8 35-70.

2. If a domed port is necessary for a zoom lens, am I in need of a 6" or an 8" one?

3. Can someone recommend a mask that will offer good access to the housing viewfinder?

4. is there some kind of cord or other standard solution for not losing the camera/housing while hauling my ancient butt in and out of a dive boat?

All commentary appreciated. If there is an Ikelite rep lurking, please feel free to join in. If anyone wants to pursue the details of this trip, please sound off.

best,

Flotsam, who misspelled his own log-in monicker.

 

[scottfiji]

1. - no, you will want a much, much wider lens

good luck!

Scott

 

[jcclink]

1. Tokina 10-17 fisheye (if you like the effect) or Nikon 12-24. Lots of other new lenses to also consider. You do need a wider lens for sharks.
2. The larger dome is usually better optically, but is more difficult to travel with due to size. The dome must be located properly for good optical results. Manufacturer's suggestions for extension ring size may or may not be optimum. Testing is required. May also need a diopter on lens.
4. I use a simple wrist lanyard attached to housing handle. Have boat crew hand camera to you after you roll in & hand it to them when you return to boat if you prefer.
5. See you insurance agent about flood, lost, theft, stolen by shark insurance.

 

[Mariozi]

1. Tokina 10-17.
2. You don't need a big dome with this lens. Although for the subjects you are playing with, the dome size will play almost no difference in the end.
3. Any small volume ones (not single lens), I use Mares Opera, but there are many to choose.
4. A lanyard is OK, but be aware that a D300 dangling from a lanyard on such a dynamic environment is in HEAVY risk of being killed by flood. A kick from a fin, whale, tank could do that.

 

[nancyscuba]

You are about to embark on a really awesome trip! I have snorkeled with the whales in the Silver Banks and loved it.

For your lens choice, I would recommend the Nikor 12-24 for shooting the whales. Bring the other lenses you already have for topside shooting. And for a change of pace.

I reommend the 8" dome port. It is sharper.

Hold firmly to the housing handle so you don't drop it. Be sure to have a sturdy non-quick release lanyard attached to it.

The boat crew will hand you the housing after you enter the water. You will hand to up to them before you get out of the water.

Pool test everything before you go.

 

[scorpiofish]

1. The 18-70mm is woefully inadequate. The Tokina 10-17mm is the best choice.

2. The 8" dome is far superior to the 6" dome when you start getting wide. Even with the 8" dome the 12-24mm lens will be soft in the corners.

The only other lens I would use would be a straight fisheye, but you won't have the flexibility of the 10-17mm. The Tokina is the most functional wide angle available.

3. The mask won't be as critical. If you are getting a new mask, get a frameless low profile mask like the Ocean Shadow/Mini-Shadow. Aeris has an equivalent. Scubapro has a nice frameless mask. The new Atomic is nice, but works better on larger faces, although I heard they were going to make a smaller version.

I don't look through the viewfinder half the time when shooting wide angle.

4. Get a wrist lanyard. I never use one, but if I were snorkeling with no strobes in the deep, I would go ahead and use one. Just attach it the bottom of your right handle. Leave plenty of slack.

 

[Cathy Church]

1&2. Ultrawide fisheye lenses with whales sometimes creates awkward distortion. That is why the zoom lens is a good idea. The sharpest zoom is the the Sigma 10 - 20mm lens in a dome port and the Nikon 12 - 24 mm. You do not always get as close as you would like to the whales, so a zoom is handy. You can't go wrong with any of the recommendations.

4. Does the housing system float? If not, you might want a floatation strap so you don't get too tired holding it. Don't bother with a strobe, of course.

3. Always look through the viewfinder while you are shooting anything as angles and movements can easily cause you to misframe.