Confused about best Strobe Sync method

[BobArnold8265]

Hi,

I'm a Nikonos user but have been bitten by the digital bug. The choices out there are really overwhelming with different cameras, housings and strobes. I'm sorting through most of this OK but am a bit confused on the best strobe set-ups. Basically as I see it there are four ways to make an external strobe work:

1. As a slave to the built in strobe. I would think the built in strobe would generate a fair amount of backscatter which makes this option not very desireable.

2. The Ikelite Manual Controller. This seems to be activated by the built in flash but if I understand it correctly, you can adjust the output of (partially block) the built in flash to eliminate backscatter. However, this set up doesn't work TTL with the camera.

3. A fiber optic cable. Again this makes the external strobe a slave to the built in one but there is a cover over the built in flash to eliminate backscatter.

4. Finally, TTL through a traditional 4 or 5 pin sync cord.

My guess is that the TTL approach would be the easiest and best system but honestly don't know which is best. Since I am buying an entire system from scratch, I have tons of flexibility and would appreciate any advice that might help me in my decision. Thanks.

Bob

 

[scubajunkee]

Bob,

What kind of digital camera are you buying? Certain cameras require certain strobe connections. For example, I dive with a Canon Powershot S40 (4MP) camera with an Inon D2000 strobe. My camera doesn't have a pre-flash or a regular hotshot for the strobe, so I use a fiber optic cable routed to my strobe. There's a dark piece of film covering my internal strobe to prevent backscatter. On the strobe itself it works as a slave strobe witha pseudo-TTL built in. If the strobe isn't firing strong enough, I can dial it up, if it's too bright, I can dial it down. So I have the best of both worlds.

On the other hand, my buddy, JimErnst, has a hot shoe on his Canon Pro1 connected to synch cable (i think) then fires the strobe in that fashion.

I all depends on your camera and what strobe you want to use.

-Ericson

 

[BobArnold8265]

Thank you for your response. I'm not sure what camera to buy at this point. That's why I was asking about the best method to connect the strobe. If I understand things correctly, some camera/housing combinations will allow TTL and others won't. Unfortuneatly, I don't have a good camera shop or dive shop that actually carry any housings that I can actually get my hands on. Trying to get information off the internet is also rather difficult. Some sites don't provide specs beyond what the housing is made of and its' depth rating.

As far as cameras go, I'm going with a compact because of the price. I've narrowed the field down to an Oly C-8080, Nikon Coolpix P1, Canon S80 or Fuji E-900 (I have to check on housing availability on the last two but really like the specs for the cameras alone).

 

[jduncan]

Bob,

I'm using an Ikelite DS125 strobe with the manuall controller and it seems to be working great with our Cannon A610. The exposure can be controlled in half stop increments on the controller, and can be set for pre and non preflash cameras. I am using Cannon housings on two cameras and they are nice, and not nearly as expensive as the Ikelite - but I'm not sure whats available for your selections. Olympus does make housings though.

I set the strobe for TTL and attach the manual controller, and i use the Cannon case and Ikelite tray. Perfect.

 

[scubajunkee]

Bob,

The Canon S80 is just the 8MP version of my camera plus more features. There is a housing available for it through Canon and the strobe I'd recommend is the Inon D2000. Try contacting www.backscatter.com. They're an underwater photo and video store in Monterey, CA. They ship nationwide and can help you with more specific questions. They have great customer service and have really helped me get the right strobe and lenses for my camera.

Ericson

 

[alcina]

Bob...FWIW I don't think there is one best method really.

I have used the Canon A20 with my old Ikelite 50 substrobe and remote thingy - basically you set the camera's internal flash to as low as possible and it fires at the remote and triggers the strobe. You control light by how far the strobe is from the subject. Obviuosly this is the trickiest method - but it works.

I have also used several different cameras/housings with the INON fibre optic cable. I really like this and since you mask the camera's internal flash you eliminate potential backscatter from it. I have also used it on camera/housing where I forgot to mask and didn't have a backscatter problem - remember to turn the flash setting down where appropriate as it only needs a tiny bit of light. Fibre optic is easy and you can buy strobes that have full manual control (far more important to me than ttl, btw).

I have also used hard wired synch cables, as on my current system. I use this synch cable with exactly the same strobe as I used with fibre optic - only had to buy the new cord. I have to use this method as in my new housing I cannot use the on camera flash at all so there is nothing to trigger the external strobe with.

IMHO go for a strobe that allows you to use both fibre optic and hard wire as this is the best way to ensure the strobe will grow with you as you change systems in the future. If you get ttl in there too, well, great...if not, you can live quite happily without it!

 

[ssra30]

Personally I prefer hardwire method. Ikelite manual controller/slave strobe can be triggered by external light source from other people's flash which is a pain sometimes so if the camera/housing has bulkhead for sync cord, that would be my preferred way (such as Oly C5050 with Ikelite housig or C8080). If you want real TTL for PnS, you are pretty much stuck with Oly and Ikelite. I think there is TTL converter for Oly available to put in whatever housing you want as well if you are handy with tool but can't remember the name of the German guy who makes these kits currently.
Also not having to use internal flash to trigger the strobe will also make your batteries last a bit longer for more shots

 

[RiotNrrd]

I'd love to have a true TTL setup, but I couldn't stomach the green. From what I was able to find, you'll be dropping at least $3k if you want a digital with a TTL connector, a housing that supports it, and a TTL capable underwater strobe.

I went with a more low-end approach (Canon S70, WP-DC40, Ultralight tray and arms, Sunpak-G, fiber-optic cable). That all wasn't cheap either, but it takes great photos. Plus, I've found that generally, shooting the stobe manual is pretty easy. Since the digital has real-time feedback, I usually know within the first few shots if I need more or less strobe output and/or aperture.

Would I like to have my Rebel XP in an Ikelite housing with an Ikelite TTL strobe? Sure. But ouch on the old pocketbook.

RiotNrrd