Cold water vintage diving and buoyancy.

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elmer fudd

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So I'm putting together a set of vintage dive gear as I find it and I'm going to try to learn to dive it, but the water I dive in never really gets above 55 degrees. This means I'm wearing a minimum of a 7mm wetsuit. I've got an O'Neil J-suit, so it's a good suit and although it's not vintage, it is all black and for the time being, that's good enough. The thing is there's a big change in buoyancy with depth.

Last dive I wore my BPW, but I deflated the wing at the beginning of the dive and never touched it again throughout the dive. I was able to maintain my buoyancy much better than I had anticipated too, but only out to about 20'. Past 20' I started to become negative and the deeper I went the more negative I became. So if I were to plan a dive to 60 feet would I just need to wear less weight, swim down and plan on grabbing a rock to avoid an uncontrolled ascent at the end, or was there some better way. I've heard that the old suits compressed less, but it also seems that most of the old divers were diving warmer waters, so maybe this wasn't the issue.

Anyway, I'd like to hear peoples thoughts on it.
 
There are a couple of ways you can do it if you want to go old school. You can weight yourself for depth and then swim it down until you get neutral. Trouble with this is you are way positive at the end of the dive so safety stops can be difficult. They were not done in days gone past so no one worried about doing them....one of the few things from the past I feel is a bad idea. If your dives are shallow I might not worry about them but anything more than 40 ft and I start to consider them an improtant precaution. Another method is to weight yourself for the surface, decend and then shed some weight at the bottom. Tie clips to a couple of 3s or 4s and clip them to your harness until you get to the bottom. For the first few dives, a varity of small weights are a good idea until you get the correct amount dialed in. The good news is after about 30 ft the change is a lot less so the amount needed will not change a huge amount on deeper dives. Your nav skills need to be good enough to find them again, clip them back on at the end of the dive and you are good to go. This works fairly well and is easier to do, plus you can now easily do safety stops.....as long as no one retrieves your "lost" weights. This method increases the potential of a runaway decent but for an experienced diver it's not a difficult problem to handle, just swim up or in a worst case, drop your weights....or better yet just you "bottom adjustment weights".

Either are valid old school techiques but for me, when it's cold and deep, it's time to go a little more modern. I use my modern BC (Zeagle Express Tech modified for DH use) with my old regs. I enjoy my old gear but IMO there are times when the hassel is not worth it, diving deep and cold is one of them. With either method, there should not be a need to "grab a rock" as long as you are weighted properly. The only thing that changes from the beginning of the dive to the end is tank buoyancy which is around 4 lbs unless you are diving a huge tank. I weight so I am dead on neutral at 1/2 tank so the buoyancy change I have to deal (+/- 2 lbs) with is only half of the total and well within the easy to handle range.

As for the wetsuits, the old models do compress less....or at least the ones I have do and everything I have heard from those who were there (I am newer at this than a lot of the guys) in the day say they compressed less. There are still companies making custom wetsuits out of Rubatex, the material of choice in days gone past. I think XYZ is in your general area and uses one.
 
So I'm putting together a set of vintage dive gear as I find it and I'm going to try to learn to dive it, but the water I dive in never really gets above 55 degrees. This means I'm wearing a minimum of a 7mm wetsuit. I've got an O'Neil J-suit, so it's a good suit and although it's not vintage, it is all black and for the time being, that's good enough. The thing is there's a big change in buoyancy with depth.

Last dive I wore my BPW, but I deflated the wing at the beginning of the dive and never touched it again throughout the dive. I was able to maintain my buoyancy much better than I had anticipated too, but only out to about 20'. Past 20' I started to become negative and the deeper I went the more negative I became. So if I were to plan a dive to 60 feet would I just need to wear less weight, swim down and plan on grabbing a rock to avoid an uncontrolled ascent at the end, or was there some better way. I've heard that the old suits compressed less, but it also seems that most of the old divers were diving warmer waters, so maybe this wasn't the issue.

Anyway, I'd like to hear peoples thoughts on it.

I just did a full vintage dive yesterday with double hose and everything up on the Sonoma coast with Fish & Beer (Jerry) from this board.
It was great! We were diving in 53 degree water and I used my new old school beaver tail 7 mil. I weighted myself probably too light for the depths we were diving (30 foot max) so I was carrying around rocks and trading them for lighter or heavier ones depending on how deep we were. It was a fun exercise. I was amazed at how little it takes to change things. I was grabbing rocks anywhere from the size of a loaf of bread to ones about half that size and it made a huge difference. This gives me an indication that for game collecting, if a BC is not to be used, the weight of the game has to be taken into consideration.
I also find that a 5 or 6 Lb. air consumption swing is only patially true. You have to account for the delayed retraction of a compressed suit and aslo the cooling of the suit which will reduce the size of the air bubbles in the suit making it heavier in the water. So at the end of a dive with an empty tank your swing might only be a few pounds and not the actual weight lost in air consumption. One sort of counters the other in other words. This is an advantage.

Here's my suit description:
I had M&B down in long beach make me a custom commercial wetsuit from some very dense material, the densest material available these days. It's denser than Rubatex G-231 (the old standard) and needs to be custom fit exactly or else you will not be able to move against the tight areas. The design of my suit is from 1961 and they've never stopped making that style complete with stainless twist locks and nickel coated zippers (upon request). Commercial Urchin divers prefer that cut and M&B is the premier maker of heavy duty retro suits.
Buoyancy shift is about as minimal as it gets with this suit.

Don at M&B also sent me some samples of other materials he can get. There's another product made that's a hair softer and resembles G-231 about as close as possible these days. Lined G-231 is still available, however there is a rumor going around that the glue they use to laminate the nylon or lycra to the outside fails after time because it's a water based solution, whereas the older stuff they used a solvent based glue that was much more permanent. Environmental regulations put an end to the good stuff.
Rubatex still does make original G-231 in skin/skin material (smooth both sides) but it is expensive. A suit made from that could run upwards of $1200. It would also be a glued together only suit which means no stitched seams. Skin outside is also less abrasion resistant and can be damamged quite easily on sharp rocks or abrasive objects.

I guess cost is all justified by income levels and want or need.
Some people spend $2500 on a drysuit and another $500 on undergarments, then drop $1400 on a can light and another $5000 on a scooter and swear they need all that stuff, so it's all relative I guess.

M&B's phone number:
(562) 422-3493
 
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$1200 is probably going to be a bit rich for my blood. I'm looking at the Hydroglove drysuits though and that might be something for me to get this fall. They're vintage, they're affordable and they should keep me warm when the weather cools off. Plus, I could use it to equalize my buoyancy somewhat.

It seems to me that the vast majority of the old wetsuits I see out there really aren't that old and a lot of them are in bad shape and even fewer of them actually fit me. I'm still going to keep an eye out for an old beavertail suit, but I'm thinking that sticking with a new suit will probably be more effective.
 
$1200 is probably going to be a bit rich for my blood. I'm looking at the Hydroglove drysuits though and that might be something for me to get this fall. They're vintage, they're affordable and they should keep me warm when the weather cools off. Plus, I could use it to equalize my buoyancy somewhat.

It seems to me that the vast majority of the old wetsuits I see out there really aren't that old and a lot of them are in bad shape and even fewer of them actually fit me. I'm still going to keep an eye out for an old beavertail suit, but I'm thinking that sticking with a new suit will probably be more effective.

$1200 would be for the Rubatex G-231 skin both sides suit.

You could get a nice suit made out of different material like the Chinese version of G-231 for around $600.
I probably shouldn't be quoting prices over the internet for a business that's not even mine, but I'm going by prices that were given to me.
I have 2 of his suits. One is G-231 1/2" thick which was just over $1000 with tax and shipping, and the other is the super dense Korean material suit that was $650.
I got them both with spine pads, kevlar on knees and elbows, 3/4 front center zip with attached hood, full old style beaver tail with stainless twist locks. It doesn't get any more authentic than that.
 
I sometimes dive with just my drysuit and no BC. Probably more eclectic than vintage but what the hey.
I weight myself so I'm neutral at the end of the dive which makes me a little heavy at the beginning so I only do this where there is a known bottom as I surface swim with just my head above the surface. That takes a calm demeanor but one has a reg anyways and can dump weights so it's not a big deal really. I also carry a lift bag in case of a suit failure.

I'm just buying a WS myself so I imagine I'll be trying to sort out its weighting issues shortly as well.
 
Mr. Fudd, you could just get a horsecollar and don't sweat it. You can weight to be neutral at about 10 feet at the end of the dive, and blow just a puff or two in the HC to maintain neutrality throughout a dive. It doesn't take more than a couple puffs if you are weighted well.

It was common practice when diving sans BC back in the day to tow a float. So, they really did have a surface floatation device, but just not on their body. Personally, I wouldn't imagine dragging a float around through kelp would have been all that practical, and may have been why floatation devices that could be worn became popular, eventually leading to using them as a means of buoyancy control. Kind of an evolution. A horsecollar is vintage as far as I'm concerned.
 
I probably will pick up a horse collar at some point, but I'd also like to learn to dive as authentically as possible.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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