Cocos Island

[InTheDrink]

Not sure if this is the appropriate thread for this post.....

My buddy are discussing going to Cocos Island, off Costa Rica. We would kind of like to keep it in our back pocket for a few years time as a dream trip; however he read recently that the shark populations at Cocos are in noticeable decline. So we're wondering whether we should be going sooner rather than later - anyone any thoughts on this? On whether we can hang on another 3 or 4 years and it will still be amazing or whether we should get out there pronto....

TIA,
John

 

[matt215]

i was there a month ago. there were lots of hammerheads at a few of the sites, but not all of the sites. still, we saw schools of hundreds.
the white tips of course are everywhere.
we also saw silkies in larege numbers on several occasions.
all this being said, we also saw boats fishing within the 12 mile "safety zone". this can not be good for the shark populations. i have heard that this is not an isolated event. there is so much money in the shark fin trade, and the government can't adequately enforce the 12 mile zone (or maybe they're paid not to enforce it) that i believe shark fishing will continue. the locals also see it as a way to put food on the table, so they aren't exactly wanting to stop it.
it's a sad sad situation. who knows though. i went last year to cocos, and i think we saw more sharks this year. the future could hold a different story though. i plan to go back as well ... probably 2010. i still think there will be more sharks there than other places ... hopefully.

 

[Triton17]

John,
I have been to Cocos 3 times in the past year, twice with Matt215. I can tell you that from the locals and doing some research that the shark population in Cocos is declining. I can not say that I have noticed a difference in the course of just one year. But to Matt's point about the illegal long line fishing around the island - it continues today and is more than can be monitored and controlled by the few rangers (MARVIVA) on the island. If you are fortunate enough to dive the far south dive sites, condition Dependant, such as Shark Fin - you will see the lines and nets that have been abandoned by the long liners.
We are headed back in March 09 to participate in shark research with several organizations tagging and tracking these wonderful animals. It is definitely the place to see large pelagic travelers and get an up close experience with all these wonderful and amazing creatures.
My opinion - Dive Cocos now! Dive anywhere and everywhere Now. In 10-20 years the ecosystem will not be what it is today. The UnderSea Hunter is the crew to go with. Edwar will take you to the sharks, even if they are not at the cleaning stations, he will find them and take you to them.
Have a Great Time in Cocos.

 

[NTSilver]

John - Definitely go now. Do a search on Cocos and look at my trip reports. However, one word of caution - if you go you will become addicted. That's why we went 3 times in one year - it's just too incredible.

 

[InTheDrink]

Wow, sounds fantastic - but awful that it's being fished. I guess we'll go sooner rather than later then. Had planned on Undersea Hunter. Without veering too far off topic, I've heard they offer rebreather courses, do you know if this is correct and if so whether this would be a good time to do this or whether prior certification would make more sense? I'm guessing the latter...
following the same train of thought - what level of proficiency would you say is required for diving in Cocos? I'm PADI AOW/Nitrox with coming up to 100 dives and will shortly be doing Resuce so I'm guessing I should be ok, but be interested to understand the typical profile of diver on the Undersea Hunter, e.g. does everyone have 1000+ dives?

 

[matt215]

i went to cocos on UH last year with 50 dives. i was close to 100 when i went this year, and am now well over 100.
that being said, the only diver(s) that had any incident had much "more experience" than me.
cocos is advanced diving. you need to be comfortable at 100 ft + dives routinely. you should also be comfortable diving in current. buoyancy control is also essential.
at 100 dives you will have fewer dives than most on the boat (probably). but i can say that the number of dives doesn't = better diver. you just really need confidence (not arrogance).
my skill level was kind of reflected in my air consumptiion, as i was usually in the first half of people back to the skiff. but cocos is unpredictable. some dives you may need to go to 100 feet or more for the sharks, other dives the action is more shallow. some dives you will go to 100 or more feet, hang out a while, then drift with the current out into the blue. other dives are 40 or so feet with no current. other times you're in a washing machine.
if you don't do anything stupid, keep the divemaster in sight, and watch your computer/gauges, you'll probably be fine. everything is a little more intense out there b/c the diving is more difficult, and any mistake (even tripping and falling on the boat) can be disasterous b/c you're so far from shore/help. it's like walking on a 2x4: 6 inches off the ground is no big deal, 100 ft in the air is a little more tricky.

good luck!

 

[NTSilver]

John
Agree with Matt - arrogance and stupidity (sorry to be blunt) seem to be the prevailing traits when incidents do occur.
I believe the USH does support rebreathers but do not offer training anymore. I believe they have some information concerning rebreathers on their website.
At Cocos since all diving is done from the skiffs, you need to be comfortable with backrolling with no air in the BC and getting down as fast as you can so the surface current doesn't carry you away. Generally it's takes about a day (3 dives) for everyone to get in synch with this. There will be currents and there will be times when your mask is removed from your face. My mask (even though I am holding it on) comes off sometimes during Back rolls when combined with a hood. It's just something that I have gotten used to and I don't have a problem with. Last year there was one occasion that the current was so strong that it blew my mask off going down the anchor line. (lesson learned - do not ever try to clear your mask with a stiff current in your face).
All that being said, when we went to Cocos last May I think I had around 75 - 80 dives. I had had knee surgery and had just started walking two weeks prior to leaving for Cocos. I did fine.
On our second trip in Nov, I had a torn rotator cuff. Again, I did fine. During both of these trips I also used my camera.
Just trying to point out that your need to know what the dangers are, but it's not impossible diving and it's not just diving for people with thousands of dives.

Hope this helps...
Nonie

 

[matt215]

nt:

what about holding on to the rope and back rolling in? ; )

 

[Triton17]

John,
I concur with all Matt and NTSilver have stated. # of dives does not = proficiency. Your training and experience should be fine for diving Cocos. Think safe as you were trained and you'll be fine. One last thing, I would recommend you be in above avg condition to enjoy all the diving for the entire trip. Lots of folks get exhausted from the repetitive deep diving, swimming, etc. After several days it starts to wear on the folks in avg to out of shape conditioning. I think you'll be fine and have a fantastic time!! You will not want to leave....and like the rest of us, stand on the stern and watch the island fade into the distance for as long as you can trying to make the trip last just a few moments longer!!!

 

[InTheDrink]

yes agreed, just wanted to get an idea of the typical diver profile. If every diver has 1000+ dives and is a tech diver then I would probably rethink the trip. Doesn't sound like it is and I feel fairly comfortable (yet cautious!) with what I've heard on this thread. I'm comfy with going in negative from whatever angle and am familiar with very strong currents and have been on a few liveabords and can't get enough diving in. 4 dives per day is way too little! Diving is about the only thing that gets me out of bed before everyone else. Scratch the 'about' part.

I think I'll do the trip sooner rather than later based on the advice here. Gutting to hear even Cocos is being affected by the greed of man. I'll pop you guys a line again once planning for the trip is complete. This could be next month or next year!

Thanks again for your posts.
John