Canon WP-V1 vs Ikelite #6091

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mrivken

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Location
Pleasanton, CA
# of dives
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I read Canon WP-V1 thread and trying to decide between Canon WP-V1 and Ikelite #6091 housings.
From price point of view it looks like they will come pretty close after addition of Inon mountbase MBWPV1, Shoe Base and 2 x Grip Base D4 (Ikelite has base and handles included), but Ikelite has better functionality ( Joystick Controls,Mode Dial Control,Function Button) and probably will more stable(it is heavier).
But from photos looks like LCD monitor not fully open ~45' vs 90' on WP-V1 and partially obstruct by controls. Is it will create difficulty to view LCD ?
 
I handled the Ikelite case at a scuba show and was disappointed with the narrow opening angle with a camera in the case. I suggest you take a look at one before you make a decision. The WP-V1 was an easy choice for me for that reason.
 
This is exactly what I was afraid :depressed:

Unfortunately, I can not modify Canon housing like you did and will need to buy Inon mountbase MBWPV1, Shoe Base and 2 x Grip Base D4.
 
I read Canon WP-V1 thread and trying to decide between Canon WP-V1 and Ikelite #6091 housings.
From price point of view it looks like they will come pretty close after addition of Inon mountbase MBWPV1, Shoe Base and 2 x Grip Base D4 (Ikelite has base and handles included), but Ikelite has better functionality ( Joystick Controls,Mode Dial Control,Function Button) and probably will more stable(it is heavier).
But from photos looks like LCD monitor not fully open ~45' vs 90' on WP-V1 and partially obstruct by controls. Is it will create difficulty to view LCD ?

Okay, a few things to consider about the Ikelite.

I have and use the Ikelite 6081 with my Canon HG21 camcorder.
Yes, the screen only opens up halfway but it is viewable underwater and the obstructions are not a factor. It does sit back in the housing a bit which to me is a bit awkward when trying to view. (My old Ikelite housing was for a Sony and had the mirror on the outside and it seemed easier to view. But a bad thing is that if the mirror wasn't at the exactly right angle, you would not be framing the subject correctly. This happened to me several times and footage was unusable.) So, even though I don't like how far back the LCD screen sits inside the housing, I do like that I am seeing exactly what I am recording.
There is NO way to use the joystick IMHO, at least underwater. You just can't see it or control it well enough. Topside it may be possible, haven't tried it.
The camcorder fits snuggly inside the housing and as far as I am concerned it is a bit too snug (strap folded under and around tray, ring this way not that, uggghh). It takes me about 10 minutes to get it set up and housing closed.
The housing is definitely stable underwater though with the leadweighted base and handles. It feels completely neutral underwater.

In comparison to the Canon housing - I really don't know how well it works or how stable it will be. My biggest concern is that it hugs the camcorder really closely and therefore any heat inside the housing may cause fogging. I have seen this with still cameras too often. It would be nice to hear from some of the people here on SB who have bought this housing! I know it has been discussed quite a bit over the past year and people have said they bought the Canon housing as it was cheaper.

robin:D
 
Fogging is not a problem with the case. There is no HDD or other moving parts to heat up...the battery may possibly heat up a little from discharging, but I have not verified this. In any event, adding a small silica gel packet to any uw case is a good idea. You can also apply antifog to the inner surface of the port if you want to be doubly assured. The only time I had a problem with fogging was when a hot case was plunged into the sea. Leave your camera in the dip tank between dives. If this is not possible, cover it to keep it cool. A wet towel works where there is no place keep it out of the sunlight. When possible, before the dive I set up the camera in my room where it is cool, put it into the bathtub or sink to check for leaks, wrap it, take it to the boat and place in the dip tank.
 
Fogging is not a problem with the case. There is no HDD or other moving parts to heat up...the battery may possibly heat up a little from discharging, but I have not verified this. In any event, adding a small silica gel packet to any uw case is a good idea. You can also apply antifog to the inner surface of the port if you want to be doubly assured. The only time I had a problem with fogging was when a hot case was plunged into the sea. Leave your camera in the dip tank between dives. If this is not possible, cover it to keep it cool. A wet towel works where there is no place keep it out of the sunlight. When possible, before the dive I set up the camera in my room where it is cool, put it into the bathtub or sink to check for leaks, wrap it, take it to the boat and place in the dip tank.

Aquaspider and law5Guy - there is not enough room inside of either of these housings to place a silica gel packet. Placing a packet inside my housing would either obstruct the buttons or the screen, neither of which would do me any good.

I am fully aware that most fogging of housing occurs on the boat when the housing is left out in the sun. I always take a white towel to place over my housing if there is no shade on the boat. That is not what I am talking about.

I have seen many people's still photos and heard complaints about "why are my photos foggy" and it always comes from people who have small manufacturer-made housings. Those housings are snug around the cameras, the cameras heat up from zooming in and out, as well as the battery heating up. I know this to be true, for a fact. Yes, a desicant pack would help, if there was room for it. Some housings are so snug that there is NO PLACE for them. Working in a dive shop, I had people bring in their cameras and housings and ask for my help. I found that it was always halfway through a dive when the fogging would start (even the owner of our LDS where I was working had this happen to him). Trust me on this, some housings do NOT have room for them. All I could tell the people is to try not to zoom so much or get another camera. :depressed:
 
Huh? Silica gel packs came with the WP-V1, or was it the WP-DC33? I packed them away after the last trip and cannot find them at this moment. Instead, I put some small gel packs from pill bottles in a few places in a WP-DC33 for the following photos. As you can see, there is plenty of room! Two more would have fit below the camera if I had them. The WP-DC33 is a very small case with little little air space and one packet is enough. The WP-V1 case has far more space for packs but it is not necessary to stuff it full either. Silica gel packs are available in sizes to fit just about anything.
 

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Huh? Silica gel packs came with the WP-V1, or was it the WP-DC33? I packed them away after the last trip and cannot find them at this moment. Instead, I put some small gel packs from pill bottles in a few places in a WP-DC33 for the following photos. As you can see, there is plenty of room! Two more would have fit below the camera if I had them. The WP-DC33 is a very small case with little little air space and one packet is enough. The WP-V1 case has far more space for packs but it is not necessary to stuff it full either. Silica gel packs are available in sizes to fit just about anything.

if there is enough room inside your WP-V1 that is great. The photos I have seen of it don't appear to have any free space.
Canon | WP-V1 Case for Canon VIXIA HF20 and VIXIA | 3922B002

THERE IS NOT enough room inside the Ikelite housing without obstruction of buttons or the screen.
 

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