Canon T2i Settings

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furby076

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Messages
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Location
Philadelphia
# of dives
100 - 199
So just got a new canon t2i and I was hoping someone had recommended settings. I will be using one strobe, and shooting in raw. I will be shooting various sized objects, though right now only have the 18-55 lens.

I figure I need to set manual custom settings for:

North Atlantic diving (murky, cold) - mostly day, but also night...though at 90ft it doesn't matter much. Probably wrecks too
Carribean diving (clear sunny)
Carribean night diving

So if some people would provide insight I would appreciate it.

On a side note I am looking to take photography lessons in my area (non-diver) to learn how to use my camera...this will give me a good basis.
 
I know I answered you in another forum, but in case someone else is wondering about this also:

My jump setting are always:

For Wide

Camera mode : Manual

Shutter Speed : 1/125

Aperture : f/8

White balance : Auto or manual if using magic filters

ISO: 200 (on my Nikon, you could use 100 on the T2i

Always in RAW


For Macro

Camera mode : Manual

Shutter Speed : 1/125

Aperture : f/22

White balance : Auto

ISO: 200 (on my Nikon, you could use 100 on the T2i

Always in RAW

The above setting are by no means a magical tricks and will not assure you of having a bang on exposure, jumps setting are used as a starting point, always using the same, means you know from where to start all the time, sort of a familar position from which to correct your exposure all along the dive. also, you might feel more comfortable with variation of the above, the important thing is to find a jump setting and get use to it, it helps save valuable time when it counts.

For a single strobe

I'd say the above setting are spot on, with one strobe in Wide Angle situation try to keep it above the housing and not pointed at the subject directly, the idea is to use the edge of the ligh cone from the strobe and keep as much of the water between the port and subject out of the light, you will have much less backscatter this way, the further the subject the further above the housing ought to be the strobe, as you move in closer, then will you bring your strobe slowly in. if you point the strobe directly at the perceived distance it will light up "toute la merde" that floats in front of your lens and your shots is going to end up looking like a Canadian Winter calendar
wink.gif


And yes, learning basic photography will definitely get you better pictures in the long run.

Cheers.
 
I'll agree with Viz'art, except that I normally don't like to go past f/11 for macro. The reasons:

- I like shallow depth of field. Purely an artistic choice.
- Getting up to f/22 or more gives more diffaction-limited sharpness than I'm willing to accept. It might be ok on the cheaper lenses as the low lens quality could mask any diffraction artifacts.
- I like to shoot fast and not wait for long recharges after the more powerful strobe fires needed for high f-numbers.
 
With the 18-55 lens you won't be doing much macro work, but the wideish stuff will work pretty well. With a single strobe, I would use 1/125 sec and f11. Adjust your fstop depending on the light, too much move to f16, too little move to f8.

Bill
 

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