Canon S95 ikelite Housing Auto Magic Filter

[mbchiro]

Well, this is my kit for a trip to Bonaire 8/20-8/27/2011. I have researched a good bit and although I would love to have the Ilkelite AF-35 strobe along with a wide angle wet lens. It is not in the budget until later. Like many of you I am piecing my "kit' together gradually. Does any one know if the Ikelite recommended settings in the supplemental guide are settings to initially get the buttons to operate the camera contols properly or are they just a basic guide. I am a novice photog. I have some experience with digital cameras, but none underwater. As I have read it seems best to shoot in RAW mode, then edit the WB in the Canon pic editor. Does shooting in RAW mode negate using the underwater auto setting? I do not know much about manual modes as I have relied on auto setting for most of my shots above water. It seems that there are some good resources out there for those settings. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Also, if you are doing several shore dives/day. Do you leave your cam in the housing until the end of the day? What do you recommend to attach your cam to the BC ? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[FWADIVER]

if you use the automatic scene modes the cannons typically wont let you save raw, you need to be shooting in one of the manual modes. You can test this on the surface easily.

 

[chinacat46]

if you use the automatic scene modes the cannons typically wont let you save raw, you need to be shooting in one of the manual modes. You can test this on the surface easily.

This is true for the S95 if you are using auto no RAW.

 

[Gilligan]

In addition to what others have told you if you want to keep it as simple as possible shoot your non-strobe pics in RAW in the Tv setting. That way all you have to do is set the shutter speed and ISO. When you press the shutter half way down the monitor will indicate whether the speed is too fast with a yellow exclamation mark. Slow the shutter speed and/or increase the ISO but not over ISO 400 or you will get too much digital noise. ISO 80 works in shallow clear water. ISO 200 in deeper clear water. It doesn't matter what White Balance setting you use as you will adjust it in post-processing in the Canon DPP software. But since you have to pick one I use the "underwater" one.

As for your strobe shots use the Auto or P setting if you want. I'm not sure if that camera will allow you to set the WB in those modes. If so then use either the Auto or Flash or Daylight WB setting. Use ISO 80 if the Auto or P settings allows it. You can also use the Tv or Av mode for your strobe shots and have control over the WB and ISO settings.

You have one Custom setting on that camera so you can use it for the non-strobe shots (Tv mode settings) and switch back and forth between Auto (or P) and Custom accordingly.

From what I remember from using an S90 a few times it does not remain in the Macro setting when you switch between the modes such as Custom to Tv. You have to re-set to Macro every time. Important to remember if you are taking wide shots in the Custom mode for non-strobe shots then switch to another mode for a strobe macro shot.

Lastly your title includes the "Auto Magic Filter". Someone correct me if I am wrong but that filter is not for use with a flash. It is for clear shallower waters with the camera's strobe turned off.

 

[highdesert]

Here's some info worth reading ...

Canon S90/S95 G11/G12 Settings | Underwater Photography Guide

Actually, read the whole site. Make it your go-to bible for UW photo info.

 

[mbchiro]

thanks everyone. Gilligan- you are correct in that the filters are for ambient light only. Do most divers attach their cameras via a retractor of clip to their BC? What about multiple dives in a day? You wouldn't disassemble the housing for each dive would you?? Any preferred dessicant packs for the inside of the case. I read they help keep it from fogging. Basically when we dive in Bonaire we will be shore diving and not bringing anything other than what goes in the water. My goal is at least 2 shore dives in the am. and 2 at pm. What would you guys recommend from your experience?

 

[FWADIVER]

I use a clip tied with a piece of cave line to my camera housing, It is either in my hand shooting, or stowed on a chest d-ring, being a pseudo technical diver re tractors are a no no, and the wrist straps tend to come off too easily in my experience (stretch when wet). I wouldn't disassemble the housing if i could avoid it, however if you need to swap memory cards or batteries you are going to have to, I typically make sure i am as dry as possible and do it underneath a towel so noone else can drip water on my camera. I use moisture munchers in mine, the best way to avoid fogging though is to manage temperature, dont leave the housing in the air conditioned room, and take it out into the humidity.

 

[Gilligan]

thanks everyone. Gilligan- you are correct in that the filters are for ambient light only. Do most divers attach their cameras via a retractor of clip to their BC? What about multiple dives in a day? You wouldn't disassemble the housing for each dive would you?? Any preferred dessicant packs for the inside of the case. I read they help keep it from fogging. Basically when we dive in Bonaire we will be shore diving and not bringing anything other than what goes in the water. My goal is at least 2 shore dives in the am. and 2 at pm. What would you guys recommend from your experience?

1. I use a coil type device to attach my camera to my BCD. It's all just a personal preference. Just as long as you have something.

2. I would not open the housing between dives in the same day unless it fogged up and you needed to change the silica packets or a battery or a memory card. That's where a quality battery and large memory card come into play.

3. I use the small silica packets from the Preservation Station. A package of 50 cost $15.90. They change color when worn out. Maybe two or three dives from one in a tropical climate. IMO silica packs are a must to prevent housing lens fogging. Doing 4 dives a day will likely require you to change the silica packs every day so as not to risk fogging. Being selective on your shots will reduce the amount of heat generated by the camera's flash, monitor etc. thereby reducing the risk of fogging.

4. IMO using the Magic Filter is not a good idea as it will prevent you from using your internal flash on macro shots. Why not use RAW on the non-strobe shots and JPEG on the strobe shots?