Canon S90 and Ikelite Casing - what next?

[buddywill]

Hi there. I'm almost certified to go Scuba Diving and will be making a trip to Cozumel and Belize as well as Costa Maya starting Jan 8th.

After considerable research and finding the 2 useful posts on this forum, I settled to leave my SLR for land photography and dive with an S90 and Ikelite cases both of which I just nabbed.

My next question as a new underwater amateur photographer, what would I need to take into consideration? Should I buy filters for the water? If anyone is familiar w the reefs of where I am visiting, will ambient sunlight enough to bypass the use of a strobe?

I also see that there is an underwater mode in the camera settings. Will that be sufficient to forego the need of buying filters?

And since the camera has wide angle, would the use of the Ikelite W-20 deem neccessary???

I plan to shoot in RAW. Will post production help with correcting colors correctly if the color of the water affects my images?

Sorry for the many Q's. I invested thsi much already into my gear for the trip (and beyond) and would hate to be greatly disappointed overa variable overlooked thus I am seeking the expertise of this forum. Thanks much!

 

[Nemrod]

The camera does not have "wide angle" underwater without using an accessory lens.

Filters, no.

Strobe, yes, D2000.

N

 

[highdesert]

buddywill -

Congratulations on joining the wonderful addiction of scuba ... I'm sure you will enjoy it. I'm looking at getting the S90 setup too.

I started taking a camera underwater at about my 60th dive, and was struck immediately at the increase in the task loading involved in managing not just my dive but also the camera. Then I learned that's it's a recurrent theme with many people here on SB too.

I would suggest you give strong consideration to spending some time underwater sans camera while you concentrate on making the basic skills required to dive safely second nature. Then start with the camera.

I know this is an issue more suited to Basic Scuba Discussions, but since you posted here, I thought it was worth a reply.

Enjoy your diving!

 

[dhuskins]

Cozumel is incredible. I loved diving there. It is mostly drift diving where you simply float along as the world passes by. Very little effort if you let go and drift.

Having said that, stopping to see something long enough to get a good picture of it is more difficult than normal underwater photography. It can be done, but really requires some good buoyancy skills.

Please, do not let anyone discourage you. I figure you will learn about underwater photography the way most of us did: trial and error. I can sense your excitement to capture pictures of what you see. Go for it. Then, after Cozumel, do yourself a favor and take two classes: Peak Buoyancy Performance and Underwater Digital Photography. Those two classes will give you a significant hand up getting good pictures.

Two things you can do before you leave: Read the manual. It will give you an understanding of how the camera works. Also, put your camera in the housing and take a hundred pictures of one hundred different things. Take daylight pictures, nighttime pictures, outdoor pictures and indoor ones as well. Take pictures close up of many things, particularly small things in the 3 to 5 inch size. This will help you get familiar with the camera housing's button location. After a hundred pictures, you will start to pay attention to the image and less about how to adjust the camera.

Now, in answer to your questions. . .

Filters. I would pass on them. You will want to shoot in RAW+jpeg. That way you can see the pictures quickly, and have a RAW image that you can adjust. Everything the filter does, you can do with RAW (and then some). Filters work by reducing the light of other colors so the unfiltered color shows up more in proportion. (something discussed in a photo class)

Ambient vs Strobe. In all water situations, colors fade based on depth. Unless you are taking pictures of things in the first 30 feet of water, do not rely on ambient light for all your lighting needs. (more info about this in a photo class)

Underwater mode only affects the jpeg images. It does not affect RAW images. (read the manual)

Wide angle wet lenses. It all depends on what you want to do. My advice is to hold off on this until you know more. Take the underwater digital photography class first. Then get some more experience with your camera. Search the forums for reviews of the different ones and what they do/how they work. Then get what you need.

Post Production question: Again, read the manual and take a hundred pictures. You will then discover that post production can adjust things. It cannot bring back the picture in burned out areas or unexposed areas, but it can dial down overexposed areas and punch up underexposed areas. If you have the wrong composition, you cannot change the angle of view, but you can crop.

Final note: Keep your expectations of your first trip low. You are on a long journey and the first steps are always a little clumsy. You will get better through practice. Training will speed up the process, but practice is key. Take your camera into a pool and play with it there for a bit before you go on the trip. Have fun.

 

[Peter Guy]

As an about to be certified diver, I'd also suggest you wait on bringing a camera.

There are several reasons for this, and in no particular order:

a. Task loading -- as mentioned, dealing with a camera adds task loading to the dive and at times significant task loading. For example, if you clip it off to your BC (and that is a good suggestion since you really don't want to drop it), you'll now have a whole new piece of gear to get used to just to know where it is -- and if it is positive (which without a strobe it may well be), it is likely to float up and get caught on something. Mine, for example, really wants to get caught on my inflator hose and it often gets in the way of inflating/deflating my BC at the most inopportune moments. And that is just one example of a problem.

b. Since this will be your first trip, you don't know what you'll be seeing and if you are a real photographer, you'll end up thinking about "the shot." But what you'll miss is the rest of the dive and perhaps a lot else. I'd suggest you spend your first dive trip just looking around and trying to get the big picture of the dive -- but put a camera in your hands, you'll likely end up focusing on the shot and forgetting the big picture. In diving, "the big picture" is very important -- where am I, where is the DM, where is my buddy, what is that over there, where am I, where is the DM, what is my tank pressure, where am I (what is my depth), where is my buddy.....At the beginning, most people really don't have enough "situational awareness" to be able to keep track of those things AND look for the shot.

c. A camera needs its own tank. The goal of most divers is to go down and look around for as long as they can (safely) which means they want to maximize their bottom time. I'd be willing to bet that all UW photographers agree their air consumption rate goes up when they have a camera which means they are knowingly limiting their bottom time JUST to have a camera with them. As a new diver, you will most likely be limiting your bottom time just because you are a new diver and are working on "the basic skills" of diving. You may really want to experience the longer bottom time in your first dives that you'll probably be limiting with the addition of a camera.

These are just some ideas from someone who has been there -- not a slap at a new diver -- just someone who has a pretty good idea of the stresses of diving.

Have a great trip regardless of your decision.

 

[scottfiji]

>> If anyone is familiar w the reefs of where I am visiting, will ambient sunlight enough to bypass the use of a strobe?

No, you'll want a strobe. I've been to cozumel, you'll have a great time there.

>> And since the camera has wide angle, would the use of the Ikelite W-20 deem neccessary???

In order to shoot wide-angle, yes. However, many UW photographers are happy shooting only mid-range and macro.

>> Will post production help with correcting colors correctly if the color of the water affects my images

For ambient light shots, shoot in less then 30ft of water, preferable shallower, and you'll want to either use custom white balance for your jpeg files, or post-process your raw files, setting the proper color temperature

hope this helps!
Scott

 

[avster]

Hi there. I'm almost certified to go Scuba Diving and will be making a trip to Cozumel and Belize as well as Costa Maya starting Jan 8th.

After considerable research and finding the 2 useful posts on this forum, I settled to leave my SLR for land photography and dive with an S90 and Ikelite cases both of which I just nabbed.

My next question as a new underwater amateur photographer, what would I need to take into consideration? Should I buy filters for the water? If anyone is familiar w the reefs of where I am visiting, will ambient sunlight enough to bypass the use of a strobe?

I also see that there is an underwater mode in the camera settings. Will that be sufficient to forego the need of buying filters?

And since the camera has wide angle, would the use of the Ikelite W-20 deem neccessary???

I plan to shoot in RAW. Will post production help with correcting colors correctly if the color of the water affects my images?

Sorry for the many Q's. I invested thsi much already into my gear for the trip (and beyond) and would hate to be greatly disappointed overa variable overlooked thus I am seeking the expertise of this forum. Thanks much!

If you are comfortable in the water there is no reason to not bring your camera gear with you. I started bringing a camera down with me before I finished my certification and was never the 1st one back to the boat.

One thing I would highly recommend is something to clip your camera to your BCD like this quick release coil lanyard:
leisurepro.com/Prod/AQUTCL.html

You are going to have times where you don't want to have the camera in your hand and you want to be confident that the camera will still be there when you want it again. It will also help tuck your gear close to you to help with your streamlining.

 

[Mel Moncrieff]

I agree with nearly everything everyone has said. I took my camera down right from the start, but you will need to be very careful with watching your dive computer, etc, and not forget about basic dive safety stuff. My friend Scott Gietler has put up online a wonderful, free guide that covers nearly every aspect of underwater photography that can be found here: Underwater Photography Guide Be sure to read the part about basics, point and shoot cameras, and housing maintenance. I would recommend a strobe and the W20 wide angle lens as soon as you can afford them. Even though the S90 has a wide-angle capability on land, it is not nearly wide enough for underwater where everything is magnified. You have such a great camera, you will want to minimize any weak links in your system. I agree that the Inon D2000 is a great choice for strobe, but there are many others that are less expensive, if you are on a tight budget. The Ikelite AF 35 kit is a good choice that other posters on this site are using: Ikelite | AF-35 Kit | 4035 | B&H Photo Video
Depending on where you are staying in Cozumel, you may get the opportunity to do some shore diving (Scuba Club and Fiesta Americana both have shore diving). This is a good opportunity to get used to your camera when you're not on a drift dive, floating along with the current. There's lots of good macro subjects at both resorts (and probably many others as well). PS: I see that Scott also answered your post and gave you the same link to his Underwater Guide.

Have fun, and let us know how you do.

Mel

 

[KhunNeal]

I'm using an INON S2000, with a home made optical cable.
Works great w/ my S90+Ikelite.

No need to use filters, shoot RAW+LARGE, do not use underwater mode. Use TV/AV/M set everything up before the dive, don't try and change things underwater (at this stage). Set timeout to 3 minutes. You'll need a spare battery, you will get one dive per battery, 2 if you push it.

As everyone else mentioned, you need to develop your buoyancy skills and feel comfortable underwater before bringing a camera with you, how long that takes will vary but it will not be your first dive. And certainly not Cozumel which is a little more 'complicated' as it is a drift dive.

Have fun in Cozumel, one of my favorite spots.

PS. I lot of dive operators will now take pictures of you underwater, and then sell you a CD afterwards - prices vary from $30 to $100.

 

[Chocoholic]

I just got back from a great trip to Coz. I did 10 shore dives infront of the Coral Princess hotel and got some decent shots without a strobe, it was in about 20 feet of water using the flash on my camera. (I want to upgrade to a strobe but need a new camera first as my old olympus PS died.)
I ended up mostly shooting macro because the in camera flash worked at that distance. I didn't have much current to deal with along the shoreline, but it changes from day to day. I didn't bother taking my camera with me on the first couple boat dives, just to get the lay of the land and to see what the DM, dive buddies, boat setup and area was like. Have fun.
Oh, and get a lanyard so you don't have to have your hands busy with the camera.