Canister Light Idea

[jsmith89]

So here's my plan:
I am going to use 3" sch40 PVC pipe to make the canister. I am going to use 2 caps one on each end permently in place using PVC cement. One will have the switch and cable in it. This will go to the light head (butchered mag light) which will hold the lamp. The lamp will plug into a base which will have a quick disconnect for so that it will be easy to disconnect and plug into the charger (since the canister will not open).

I think this will all work. My only questions are:
Is it okay to have a canister that doesn't open?
and
What wattage MR16 lamp is the best?
and
Where can I buy good MR16 bases?

 

[Darin]

If it doesn't open, you have a few issues.

First, and foremost, you'll never be able to check for leaks, both water and battery, before it's too late.

Second, the quick connect sounds like a weak point. Not sure if anyone makes such a thing that'll work.

And finally, you should do some research on battery type you're using and off-gassing during charging. I'm electronically challanged so can't answer for sure, but I believe it needs to be vented during charging, otherwise you might have just made a PVC pipe bomb.

Good luck,

Darin

Edit- Don't worry about incandesent MR-16, just go right for the MR-16 10W HID....

 

[Packhorse]

http://www.caralarms.co.nz/Dive light.htm

Sealed battery compartment with a "equalisation port"

I once had to access the batterys. I used a dremal and cut the bottom cap and replaced with a new one.
20w = long burn time
50w= lots of light
35w=best/worst of both worlds.
I got a 35w bulb today that is suposed to be as bright as a 50w.
I also looked at a 4200deg K bulb that had a nice colour but can not get it in a 10deg spot only 38 deg flood.

 

[Packhorse]

Quick disconnect? Sounds good in theory but in practice you may have problems with water getting at the contacts. How about doing it like mine or if you really want a totaly seald canister then charge thru the mag lite by removing the bulb.

 

[Firediver]

my canister is completely sealed.. the only thing thatopens is the bezel on the butchered mag lite. there is a Tamya connector inside to recharged the batteries, and to hook in the MR16 socket.. I purhased the socket on ebay. Put in a 7amp fuse on the socket end of the connector because if it were to blow the socket is removable and I won't have to rewire anything... the only issue I had with leaks in the battery canister is I used test caps initially insteasd of PVC and the glue didn't take at all. Also if you have a leak at all in the maglite head the fuse will blow and you will avoid a short in the system... the fuse is sodered right to the wiring....

the end where the wire gland goes through the mag lite is perminently glued into the maglite.... IT WILL NEVER COME OUT.. I used waterproof locktight glue on it.

Attached are a few pictures.. let me know if you have any difficulty opening them..

 

[Firediver]

I use a 50W bulb, 10x10,000ma D-cell batteries purchased on ebay for $100.00 they are rechargeable and placed in series. I get about 2.5hrs burn time..

 

[Firediver]

bought the charger on ebay as well($15.00).. my connectors from the hobby shop. Pack of two pair(male/female) about $2.00.

 

[hollywood703]

if you are using PVC why not just get a male and a female screw in type used for cleanouts? put an o-ring on it and tighten with a wrench? that is what I plan to do with mine, Cap one end and make the cord long enough that the battery can slide out the screw end, but all my wiring, and switch will be at the completely sealed end( which will have a nice 1" thick layer of Epoxy etc to make sure water can not enter there), which will be at the top of my tank, and the screw end at the bottom. I'll post pictures when i go get my parts....