Can I use TTL Strobe with Panasonic DMW-MCTZ10 Marine Case Underwater Housing?

[yaronad]

I have the Panasonic DMC TZ10/ZS7 with the original pansonic housing
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-DMW...m_sbs_p_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=17K45414M6HW3Q84QQH8


Does strobs with TTL - like the sea&sea ys-01....can be use with this camera & housing
or ys-02 is the max I can connect to this set

THX
[h=1][/h]

 

[DazedAndConfuzed]

Sea&Sea says no go for the TZ20, but nothing on the TZ10. I remember testing the YS-01 with my ZS3 an it worked, but can't verify since the dreaded panny housing only recently flooded my 2nd zs3.

Sites like this says it works fine:

Panasonic ZS5, ZS7, TZ8, TZ10 Underwater Ikelite Camera Housing 6170.07 & Sea & Sea YS-01 Strobe Package Reviews - Panasonic Cameras ReviewPanasonic Cameras Review

 

[yaronad]

Sea&Sea says no go for the TZ20, but nothing on the TZ10. I remember testing the YS-01 with my ZS3 an it worked, but can't verify since the dreaded panny housing only recently flooded my 2nd zs3.

Sites like this says it works fine:

Panasonic ZS5, ZS7, TZ8, TZ10 Underwater Ikelite Camera Housing 6170.07 & Sea & Sea YS-01 Strobe Package Reviews - Panasonic Cameras ReviewPanasonic Cameras Review

ok THX!...
But is the original panasonic housing will be suitable like ikelite....to the TTL operation?
or the housing doesn't matter...and it only depends on the camera?

 

[DazedAndConfuzed]

housing shouldn't matter unless it prevents any flash from coming out of the housing. on the panny, all you do is pop off that white light guide/diffuser and use the strobe mask velcro kit that Sea&Sea has. Some strobes doesn't even use fiber optics, but has a sensor aimed in the direction of the camera and triggers itself based on the flashes it see go off.

 

[yaronad]

housing shouldn't matter unless it prevents any flash from coming out of the housing. on the panny, all you do is pop off that white light guide/diffuser and use the strobe mask velcro kit that Sea&Sea has. Some strobes doesn't even use fiber optics, but has a sensor aimed in the direction of the camera and triggers itself based on the flashes it see go off.

Ok I understand
thx
Can you please explain how the TTL actually will work in my case?...with the s&s YS-01 strobe ?
when using the automatic shooting ? for example?
and is it different on manual operation ?

Again many THANKS

 

[DazedAndConfuzed]

Ok I understand
thx
Can you please explain how the TTL actually will work in my case?...with the s&s YS-01 strobe ?
when using the automatic shooting ? for example?
and is it different on manual operation ?

Again many THANKS

TTL strobes are nothing more than 'light multipliers'. They read the light coming from the camera's internal flash via the fiber optic cable and shoot off its own flash tube for as long as there is light coming from the camera's flash. It just have to emulate the light energy release pattern to be much like those much weaker built in flashes.

there tons of writes on how fiber optic TTL works, but here is a short writeup.

Digital cameras shoots off pre-flash(es) in TTL mode before taking the actual picture, so the camera sensor could measure the amount of light coming off the much weaker pre-flash and calculate how strong the actual flash has to be in order for the subject to be lighted properly. Thus when using a strobe that sends a stronger pre-flash than the camera's internal flash, the camera thinks its pre-flash lit the subject better than if it was using its own flash, thus when taking the actual picture, it lets off a smaller burst of light than it would have with just the internal flash (or that its internal flash would not have had enough power to light up the subject, but the external strobe would have.)

In manual mode, strobes like YS-01 would suppress the pre-flash, and only fires itself when the internal flash's final burst shoots off, and its strength is solely based on the setting on the strobe's light level setting. Since the camera send off a pre-flash(es) and did not see any light come back in return, it will think its pre-flash did very little to light up the subject and usually shoot off a full burst during the final flash, draining your batteries. The usual course of action would be to take the pictures with the strobe in slave mode and the light level in most minimal setting, which won't shoot off a pre-flash and also save the camera's batteries. In manual mode, its a bit more of trial and error. You judge the subject's distance, look at what f-stop you are shooting at, and determine how strong the strobe should shoot. Its alot more work, especially in TTL mode, you are also able to adjust the strobe's setting relative to what the TTL thinks is the proper exposure.

 

[yaronad]

... Many many THX.
First time I actually understand the process.