C5050 Ike New TTL Housing vs PT-015 Manual Controller

[Scuba307]

Thanks for all your help. I thought I had things all figured out…

I have just purchased an Olympus C5050/PT-015, and I am trying to put my rig together. I’m also trying to be economical, but at the same time don't want to be swapping out accessories because I overlooked something, BTDT. I’m looking for a versatile rig that can give me somewhat of a point and shoot setup now and more sophisticated manual setup as I evolve and grow into UW photography.

At first I was going to keep my PT-015 and build off of it as listed below on my setup #1 wish list. I had it all figured out until I read more about TTL… This leads me to the question. Does the new Ikelite TTL housing for the C5050 fix all of the hit or miss problems that are inherent with the TTL controller? I have read other people have started out with the TTL controller, only to change over to the EV/manual controller. Is this move inevitable in the equipment evolution of underwater photography, in the quest for more manual control? Would the same person change over to an EV/manual controller if they started out with the new Ikelite TTL housing? Could an EV controller be added to the Ike TTL housing, allowing the user to switch back and forth from TTL to full manual easily? Would I be sorry going with hardwired TTL? What are the limitations of TTL?

Please comment, please suggest, and please stop my head from spinning…

I’m contemplating the following setups:

Setup #1
Using my PT-015 housing and adding the following:
Ikelite DS125 Strobe
Smart Charger
Manual Controller
Either an Ikelite 1 handle tray and Deluxe Ball Arm System (or)
ULCS tray and 5"/5" Three Clamp Arm Set
Lens Caddy
Lens Leash
INON UWL-100 Type 2

Or

Setup #2
Ikelite TTL C5050 housing
Ikelite DS125 Strobe
Sync Cable
Smart Charger
Either an Ikelite 1 handle tray and Deluxe Ball Arm System (or)
ULCS tray and 5"/5" Three Clamp Arm Set
Lens Caddy
Lens Leash
INON UWL-100 Type

Your input and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Mike

 

[Dee]

I am far from the person to advise you about Ike products since I don't own any but I believe in order for the TTL to work, you have to use the Ike housing to utilize the hot link to the strobe.

 

[ReyeR]

Let me spin your head more

The TTL conversion circuitry that Ike has released is a circuit board that plugs into the hot-shoe of the camera. It follows/implements the Olympus TTL protocol, very similar to Olympus' own land flashs e.g. FL-40. So it is true hard-wired Olympus TTL, as opposed to Ike's earlier TTL sensor which would mimmick the camera's TTL flash.

The problem with TTL is that it can sometimes get fooled by the scene you're trying to shoot. It works by the camera firing what is called a 'pre-flash' or a small burst of flash before the main flash. It uses the amount of light being reflected by this pre-flash to determine how long (read: bright) the main flash should be. For example, if you have a light subject against a pre-dominantly dark background, not much light is going to come back from the pre-flash. The camera thinks 'hmmm, pretty dark out there, need a bright main flash', causing the main flash to over-expose the light subject.

So Ike's conversion circuitary will not fix all the hit and miss problems. This is not saying that it is a problem with Ike's conversion circuitary but more the nature of TTL itself. However, the TTL conversion circuitry will be more accurate than the TTL sensor when it comes to controlling the strobe. Also, Olympus' TTL is very good. I would say that for most close-up work the hard-wired TTL should be very accurate. You can also use the camera's 'flash exposure compensation' to tweak your TTL exposure.

If you get Ike's DS-125 strobe then you can still use the 4 manual settings built into the strobe should TTL fail to get you the correct exposure.

Yes the manual controller can be added to this setup easily but you will not be able to switch between 10-step manual control and TTL underwater as the manual controller doesn't have a 'pass-thru' mode. You will need to decide before your dive what you want to use.

What is the Sync Cable for in Setup #1?

 

[Scuba307]

Thanks for the reply,

You're right; the manual controller comes with the sync cable to attach to the strobe.

In what situations does the hard-wired TTL shine? In what situations do you prefer using manual?

Mike

 

[Dee]

I've never been a fan of any form of TTL. I may have to take 2-3 shots to get the strobe 'strength' adjusted they way I want it, depending on the conditions at that depth, but I prefer that to depending on the camera/strobe to do it for me. I like the KISS principal of manual strobes.

 

[Scuba307]

Dee,

Thanks for your input.

My feet are starting to hurt from walking the fence. I may let my wallet make the decision and go manual with my existing PT-015.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Dee]

LOL...I know the feeling! I think you've made a wise choice. When you're just starting, you want to cover all the bases, all the possibilities for down the road, especially when 100's of dollars are involved. All the termanology, techniques, possibilities can be very confusing..each has it's own set of learning curves!

You've already chosen an excellent camera to start. It can be a simple point and shoot or you can grow into the full capabilities of it. Just because a newer model comes out, doesn't mean it's going to instantly stop working. There's always going to be a newer, better, snazzier something to come along, especially in the world of digitals!

Manual anything doesn't have to mean harder or more complicated. In fact I found it much easier considering I was in control of the settings and knew what to expect. you will too as you learn how aperture and exposure times work together. And the best way to do that is lots of practice! Thousands of shots of my keyboard helped me to learn macro!

 

[Scuba307]

Dee,

Looking at your albums, when did you switch your strobe from Sea & Sea to INON? Just curious, which pictures belong to which strobe?

Mike

 

[Dee]

The Roatan '04 albums are with the Inon D-180 where a strobe was used.