c4040z/PT010 just bought DS50, any gotchas?

[Jar_uk1]

Hi

Newbie to forum, so go easy on me

I have had a search for info, but couldnt really find what I was looking for...

I just added an Ike DS50 to my 4040z/PT010 combo, and wondered if there were any problems, or gotchas I need to look out for?

I have heard of some people having problems with getting the external DS sensor to detect the camera flash properly, does anyone have experience of this? Is a reflector/mask necessary?

It will be first time with it in the pool this Thursday, and I dont get a lot of dive time nowadays, but with a trip to Scapa Flow in a few weeks and Antigua in June, I have a lot of brushing up to do.

I have only had the housing in the water a couple of times, took it down to 30m and it was fine (submarine escape training tank!) Has anyone taken them deeper, I know they are only rated to 30m, but I was just curious

Regards
John R
www.johnralston.com

 

[Dee]

First...Welcome to Scubaboard!

I'm still plugging along with my C-4040/PT-10 but there are a few folks here who have upgraded to the C-5050.

You may want to also visit theDigital Diver Forum. The majority of the members use the C-5050 now and I'm sure you'll find answers to all your questions there. Just the archives will give you lots of 5050 info. Feel free to join in.

 

[ReyeR]

Welcome Jar_uk1,

- which remote slave sensor have you got with it - TTL or manual?
- what handle/arms is it mounted on?

I have heard of some people having problems with getting the external DS sensor to detect the camera flash properly, does anyone have experience of this?

You shouldn't have a problem having the slave sensor detect the camera's flash if you aim the sensor properly. Some people have a problem getting correct exposures in TTL (w the TTL sensor) if the sensor can 'see' the light directly from the strobe itself or reflected back from the subject. This can sometimes 'confuse' the sensor and give you incorrect exposures. Make sure the sensor is aimed towards the back of the camera but just in range of picking up the camera's flash. Note: this only applies to the TTL slave sensor.
For further reading see this: http://www.digitaldiver.info/yabbse/index.php?board=3;action=display;threadid=759;start=0

Is a reflector/mask necessary?

Only to prevent backscatter. You should mask the diffuser of the PT-10 to prevent the camera's flash from lighting up the water between the camera and the subject.

 

[clive francis]

ive got the 3040 pt10 and ds50 and they are fine, good thing about digital is you can always delete if it isnt right!

check my site for some photo's

 

[Jar_uk1]

Thanx for the replies, and the links to the photos, its good to see what CAN be done with the same sort of rig.

I do have a question, I bought the DS50 and TTL sensor with the standard arm, I got the ikelite arm with release (pic below)

I do have a couple of questions, they might appear silly, but here goes.

The sensor says it should be mounted the right way up. I was thinking I should put the sensor on the bottom half of the arm (as shown in photo) but to do that and NOT have the sensor pointing forward (but pointing down and slightly backward) I have to have the sensor mounted "upside down" I cant imagine this matters, but will it?

I wanted the sensor on the bottom part of the arm so it will never move in relation to the camera (it made sense to me!)

Also there is a little bit of "movement" in the top arm, this means that the strobe when attached as shown moves a little. it has about 1.5cm movement at the strobe end. The point of movement comes from the bottom arm and the block attached to it that goes into the knurled nut joint. I have been advised that this is not too unusual. Do these arms normally have a little movement in them?

Thanks for your patience
John
http://www.johnralston.com/SETT2/pictures/p1010003.html
My favourite photo with the 4040 but taken "just" above water

 

[Finesse]

That site/thread that Dee and ReyeR have listed speaks to your questions. The sensor's orientation (upside down / right side up)will not matter as long as it only sees the cameras flash ....so it can quench properly..... aiming the slave is very important

If all else fails talk to Ikelite direct ..... they are very helpful and want to make sure their products work perfectly. As mentioned in the threads test it out on land then test it again in the water ..adjust as needed.. the more you use it the easier it will become...

Good luck !!

 

[clive francis]

john,

i found it worked best by putting the sensor on the strobe arm and not the upright, only trouble is sometimes you still get a little backscatter.

however ikelite are aware of the problem and have been led to believe that you can get a smal arm that attaches to the upright at 90deg and puts the sensor right above the internal flash.

first guess as to where it can be bought would be cameras underwater.

clive

 

[danman1]

I am in search for a PT10 housing. Where did you purchase yours?
Would you drop me an email? damanley@bigfoot.com
I would appreciate it...dan