Burma and Thailand Diving Report

What do you think of diving in the Andaman Sea?

  • Outstanding

    Votes: 2 16.7%
  • Above average

    Votes: 9 75.0%
  • Not bad

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Not worth the hassle and expense

    Votes: 1 8.3%

  • Total voters
    12

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Coral Sea

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Location
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I just returned from a trip to SE Asia (most of March, 2005) where I dived on three different liveaboards in the Andaman Sea: Colona VI to the Similan Islands; Mermaid I to Burma dive sites; and Le Mahe to Koh Tachai, Richelieu Rock, Koh Bon, and the Similan Islands. The Colona VI trip was supposed to go south to Hin Daeng, Hin Muang, and Phi Phi but, because of the rough seas at the time, we went north instead.

Overall, my impression of diving in the Andaman Sea is that it was above average but not exceptional. Diving in Burmese waters was actually a bit of a disappointment...loads of little critters but not many of the big animals that I was hoping to see. I was the only diver to see a manta ray that passed directly over my head about three metres away. I think dynamite fishing has definitely had an effect on the quality of diving in Burma. The tsunami damaged many of the dive sites in the Surin and Similan islands, some of them so extensively that they're now off limits to divers.

I had gone to SE Asia hoping to see manta rays and whale sharks, neither of which I had seen before. Seeing one manta ray was exilirating but certainly not outstanding. We did not see whale sharks.

The Colona VI is an okay boat. My room had plumbing problems. The A/C barely manages to keep up if all the doors are kept closed. There is no air conditioned common area. My dive knife, which I seldom use anyway, somehow got liberated on the Colona VI. Good food.

The Mermaid I is a large, comfortable boat that is fairly new. The dive deck could be improved by adding a dual row of tanks down the middle so that the divers can spread out. As it is, when all divers try to set up at the same time, there is no elbow room. While there is a comfortable, air conditioned lounge and dining area, it was usually quite hot because the crew would open all the windows and leave the doors wide open. The only place to escape the heat was in the cabins. There were times when the A/C was not working in my cabin, usually during the afternoon. Great food and female Thai dive guides who were very good at spotting things. The transfers to and from Ranong (starting in Phuket) to board the vessel almost make the trip not worthwhile, given the quality of the diving.

Le Mahe is a tiny boat with an even smaller dive deck. In fact, I think it could be said that Le Mahe doesn't really have a dive deck. The crew did the best it could under the circumstances. Though cheaper than many other liveaboards, I would strongly suggest you stay away from this boat, unless saving a few bucks is what you care about most. The highlight was when we dove on Richelieu Rock and saw a huge (about 20 cm long), off-white frog fish. Good food. A couple of inadequate dive briefings that caused problems (nothing too serious).

Would I dive in Thailand (Andaman Sea) again? Probably, to see what Hin Daeng and the other southern sites are like and also to repeat Koh Bon and Richelieu Rock. I would not likely dive in Burma again. The hassle and expense (US$140 for an entry visa) aren't justified by the quality of the diving. Also, I did not find the Similans to be very impressive.

Where will I dive next? Probably the Maldives and Sipadan in 2006.
 
Personally I love Burma, mainly because of all the macro stuffs there. February last year I did see a whale shark at Black Rock. This past February there was a manta at Black Rock also. The trip after I came back, some people did see a whale shark. Whale sharks are frequently sighted in Andaman Sea but they certainly are not seen daily or even weekly so I would consider it a bonus rather than a given.
Burma used to be well known for sharks but unfortunately shark fin demand has put a major dent in shark populations. At Western Rocky, if you go out toward the small pinnacles, there are still quite a fair number of sharks to be seen.
Burma Bank also has a few silvertips but they were pretty shy and did not get very close.

I personally am a bit indifferent about the Similans as well. In the past it is too crowded, pretty good reef scene but not as much macro stuffs that I would have like to see. However a lot of people love diving there. I guess there is really no one perfect place that would cater to everyone's preference.
 
Black Rock is where I saw the manta ray too. Odd that we both saw mantas there when the crew of the Mermaid I said they have never seen mantas at Black Rock.

For the macro lovers (and there were a few on the Mermaid I), I expect that they would have a different opinion of Burma from mine. As I said, loads of little stuff like scorpion fish, lion fish, cuttle fish, octopus, nudibranchs, frog fish, etc. It's the absence of the medium to large size animals that makes it unlikely that I will dive in Burma again.

We did see sharks (nurses at Burma Banks, white tips and leopard sharks at some of the other sites) but never a silvertip.

Also, I was rather surprised by the number of boats in the Similans. I'm used to diving in places where you're lucky (or unlucky, depending on your perspective) to see another dive boat (or any boat).

ssra30:
Personally I love Burma, mainly because of all the macro stuffs there. February last year I did see a whale shark at Black Rock. This past February there was a manta at Black Rock also. The trip after I came back, some people did see a whale shark. Whale sharks are frequently sighted in Andaman Sea but they certainly are not seen daily or even weekly so I would consider it a bonus rather than a given.
Burma used to be well known for sharks but unfortunately shark fin demand has put a major dent in shark populations. At Western Rocky, if you go out toward the small pinnacles, there are still quite a fair number of sharks to be seen.
Burma Bank also has a few silvertips but they were pretty shy and did not get very close.

I personally am a bit indifferent about the Similans as well. In the past it is too crowded, pretty good reef scene but not as much macro stuffs that I would have like to see. However a lot of people love diving there. I guess there is really no one perfect place that would cater to everyone's preference.
 
I also dived the Similans and most of the other sites around southern Thailand in 2003. I enjoyed the diving, it was my first liveaboard but after visitng Indonesia I'm not sure I would make a point to return to Thailand for a dive vacation. Don't get me wrong I love Thailand and the the big draw for me is the island life and the people. I have done a lot of travelling and I think that the Thai people are the best. I can't wait to get back there. Bangkok, Phuket and Phi Phi are great destiantions, not to mention Chang Mai or Koh Chang.

Having read your post though, I think if you want to see larger animals you should head out to one of the numorous Pacific destinations like Fiji, Palau or PNG where your chances are much higher to encounter them (hope you have the budget !). Friends of mine just back from Polynesia and said there are so many sharks you begin to ignore them after a couple days. You can't miss shark action in the Bahamas either.

Anyway, have a great time planning your next getaway and hope to see you sometime in Thailand !
 
Thanks for the insights. I have dived in Oz (inside the GBR and in the Coral Sea), Fiji, Hawaii (Oahu, Maui, and Big Island), numerous spots in the Caribbean, and the west coast of Canada. I'm planning to dive the Maldives and perhaps Sipadan (depending on security and price) next.

I wouldn't rank Fiji as a great place for big animals. It's more like Burma...smaller critters and soft coral.

Actually, although it's cold water diving, the west coat of Canada has some big animals. In fact, it is one of the few (I think there's only two) places in the world where divers can get close to six gilled sharks. I have been lucky enough to see them and get as close as a couple of feet on both of my west coast dive excursions. The bigger ones were about 12 to 13 feet long.

Deano2:
I also dived the Similans and most of the other sites around southern Thailand in 2003. I enjoyed the diving, it was my first liveaboard but after visitng Indonesia I'm not sure I would make a point to return to Thailand for a dive vacation. Don't get me wrong I love Thailand and the the big draw for me is the island life and the people. I have done a lot of travelling and I think that the Thai people are the best. I can't wait to get back there. Bangkok, Phuket and Phi Phi are great destiantions, not to mention Chang Mai or Koh Chang.

Having read your post though, I think if you want to see larger animals you should head out to one of the numorous Pacific destinations like Fiji, Palau or PNG where your chances are much higher to encounter them (hope you have the budget !). Friends of mine just back from Polynesia and said there are so many sharks you begin to ignore them after a couple days. You can't miss shark action in the Bahamas either.

Anyway, have a great time planning your next getaway and hope to see you sometime in Thailand !
 
In SE Asia, the best mixed of macro, coral reef and some palegics I have been to would be Komodo. Some mantas, sharks, beautiful coral reef at certain sites and some excellent macros at other, but no whale shark as far as I know.
Sipadan has a good mix of macro and some palegics,whitetip reef sharks, gigantic school of jacks, school of barracudas, lots of turtles and if you are lucky, some hammerheads but no mantas or whale sharks there.
If you want to see whale sharks, Hin Dang/Hin Maung around April in Thailand is a pretty good bet but not definite.
Forgot to mention, February last year, we went to Tower Rock on our Burma trip, visibility was very poor but there were large school of devil rays. We just hang around a rock and waited for them to swim by. Quite fun but I wish the viz was better.
 
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