Trip Report Bonaire Trip Report- Entire month of August- 2019

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Trailboss123

Divemaster
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
2,724
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Location
Pacific Northwest, USA
# of dives
1000 - 2499
Well, I spent the entire month of August on Bonaire. My 5th trip over the last 6 years.

Much of this will be redundant to the Bonaire regulars, but I am going to write it as if writing to someone who has never been there.

The Overview:
Dive Operator: Dive Friends ($180 a week unlimited Nitrox tanks)
Total Dives: 91 (89 shore and 2 boat)
Flight: Seattle to Houston to Bonaire on United.
Accommodations: Week 1 stayed in a private waterfront villa with 3 friends. Booked through VRBO. Weeks 2-4: I stayed at the Courtyard Marriott (17 nights free on points- 5 nights paid at $99 per night).
Rental Truck: Weeks 1 and 2 I booked directly with Avis and weeks 3 and 4 with Budget. Pick up and drop off right at the airport.

The Narrative:

Week one, I had 3 friends come down with me and we rented a 3 bed/4 bath waterfront villa just south of the Bel Mar Apartments. It was a beautiful setup with ample parking, rinse tanks, locked gear storage, pool, private ladder access from the deck into and out of the water for diving. We were very happy with the setup. We rented 2 pick-ups in order to have ample space and flexibility during the week.

oceanfront villa Dushi Lugar with direct private sea access - Belnem

Diving that week was great, but there was a day that was out of the norm when the wind direction shifted and came in from the south, instead of the normal easterly winds, and as a result, it just pounded most of the west coast dive sites with big waves. Nevertheless, I still managed 5 dives that day with some ingenuity and good timing (right place at the right time).

Highlight of the week was a massive Bait Ball encounter at 1,000 Steps. My video wasn’t working, but see below for a compilation of my best photos in a YouTube clip.

This same bait ball was reported throughout the month between Jeff Davis Memorial and 1K Steps. My friends left at the end of week one and I had another friend show up to dive together during week two.

Week two, I moved over to the Courtyard Marriott. I am normally a strong proponent of staying at a waterfront location with direct dive access, in order to maximize dive count and have sunset views. But since I was going to be there for a month, instead of a week, I wasn’t worried about not getting enough diving in. And with all of the free nights of accommodations, it was a no brainer. I was also given $20 a day of free food and beverage credit at the Marriott. I wouldn’t expect others to receive that, but given my status with them, it was a nice perk.

Dive Friends also has one of their 7 fill stations located at the Marriott (soon to be 8 locations), so that was convenient. They provide rinse tanks, 24/7 dive storage access (personal locker with personal lock and key), and a fairly well stocked retail shop.

I don’t think I would recommend booking the dive, drive and stay package with Marriott. I would book all 3 independently, which I did. The stay and dive parts don’t seem to be an issue; but I heard too many reports of issues with the vehicle portion to scare me off (wrong type of vehicle, vehicle not there when it should be and thus lost diving… Etc…).

Weeks 3 and 4, I was on the island by myself and solo diving. I rented a pony tank from Dive Friends at a cost of $7.50 per day. Reduced price, since I had brought my own regulators. Would have been $17.50 otherwise. They will ask you if you are PADI self-reliant certified or Solo Dive certified through another agency and will want to see proof. If you are not, then I suggest bringing your own pony or renting from the TDI shop at Captain Don’s, who has never asked or cared. Or, dive without redundancy, if you are in that camp.

Next Section of report on next page
 
Random thoughts and observations:

• Of the 89 shore dives, I did 2 shore dives in the National Park. I have been diving up there before and told myself I wouldn’t do it again, but my friend from week 2 wanted to go up there and experience it, so we did. I am now vowing again to never go back up there to dive. The diving itself just doesn’t warrant the amount of time and effort, in my opinion. Going up there on an “off diving day” makes sense. It is beautiful and different from other parts of the island, but the whole loop(s) is on dirt roads that are very slow going and the diving is not different enough from the rest of the West Coast to warrant it. You can get the same experience by heading north of Karpata and doing sites like Candyland or Nukove. Speaking of which, I really like Nukove. Entry and exit are a bit challenging, but what a gorgeous dive! I had a nice spotted Eagle Ray encounter there.
• The only reason that I did 2 boat dives is because I needed a change of pace and scenery. If on the weekly unlimited tank package, the boat dives cost $56 for a two-tank outing. We went up north for both dives. The boat originated at the Marriott, which was convenient for me. They do a max of 10 divers per boat, although the boat can handle 20. We made a couple of stops to pick up others and we were a group of 7. On our last stop, we picked up 4 people from the Den Laman/Sand Dollar pier. They were on the island to boat dive only. They had big camera rigs and didn’t care for the inconvenience of shore diving. When the Dive Master asked where we wanted to dive, this group of 4 enthusiastically said “Karpata”. I am normally a “go with the flow” type of guy (sort of), but there was no way I was going to do Karpata from a boat that I am paying extra for. I have done Karpata probably 15 times and it is shore accessible. I diplomatically expressed my perspective to this lovely group from Albuquerque and talked them into a compromise. We did the neighboring La Dania’s Leap. La Dania’s can also technically be done from shore, but few people do it. You can get in there, but can’t get out there. It’s done as a drift down to Karpata for the exit. I’ve done it, but only once and I felt this was a good compromise. Dive times on the boat dives were 60-65 minutes. We got back under the boat at 45 minutes and those who consumed air more quickly could go up together. The rest could mill around longer.
• This was my 2nd time doing Bonaire in August. It has its pros and cons. Weather was consistently good, water temps were 82-84, visibility was consistently good. It is the low season, which has its pros and cons. On the upside, getting into any restaurant without a reservation is much easier. Downside is that since it is low season, a lot of restaurants take advantage and go on extended holidays. Examples: Between 2 Buns was closed 3 out of the 4 weeks I was there (my favorite breakfast and lunch place). Mezze, was closed 3 out of the 4 weeks I was there (my favorite dinner spot).
• Lots of restaurants are closed on Sunday/Monday or Monday/Tuesday – So, you have to check that stuff out ahead of time, if eating out.
• Some “newer” restaurants worth checking out are Ocean Oasis (down south at Punt Vierkant)- killer sunsets- great vibe. Also, FOODIES, which is over on the east side at Lac Cai. Salatiga, is an Indonesian/Thai restaurant located below Osaka (Japanese/Sushi) restaurant. Great option for vegans and vegetarians, but they do have plenty of meat and seafood dishes.
• Speaking of Vegans and Vegetarians, Go Green, located downtown across from Mio Gelato is strictly for anyone in that camp and highly recommended.
• Others may disagree, but I feel like the reef life is being challenged on Bonaire. I encountered a lot of red algae taking over many dive sites and a ton of green algae taking over in the sand along most of the southern dive sites.

To be continued- one more page
 
• Some of my favorite food and libation establishments, in addition to those mentioned above are:
o La Cantina (not Mexican, although it originated as such) – excellent food and ambience in a Spanish courtyard type setting. It can get warm in there, as it doesn’t get any breeze, but the food is worth it. Pretty much need a reservation here, even in low season—it is that popular.
o The Brewery – It sits in front of La Cantina and is owned by the same people, but serves a different purpose. Craft beer on tap and a good selection of bottled beer from Europe. Biggest selection on the island. Also, they have great food that is not served at La Cantina and is about ½ the price.
o Patagonia, Capriccio, Cuba Companie, Sebastian’s, It Rains Fishes, Italy in the World (handmade pasta and great wine selection), Rum Runners is great for dinner sunsets, watch the tarpon hunting at night under the lights, good pizza (located at Captain Don’s).
o All 3 of the most popular food trucks are really good and sanitary. King Kong Burger is located at Bachelor Beach (an underrated dive site, BTW). They serve burgers and hot dogs only. Hot dogs are actually made from chicken with beef casing. Their days open seem to be random. I never did figure it out. Kite City, is located at the Kite City dive site across from the airport. They always have a fresh catch of the day that is served as a burger or wrap. During my month on the island, it ranged from Snapper, Mahi, Wahoo and Tuna. They have incredible beef burgers and they do some quesadilla variations. They are open daily from 11am-4pm. Cactus Blue is located at the Windsock/Corporal Meiss dive site. Many feel they have the best burger on the island. They also serve Lionfish burgers until they run out. They are open Mon-Fri from 11am to 4pm- roughly. Definitely closed on weekends.
o If you want a late night, then head to Little Havana. No food—just drinks and music and dancing. Things don’t get rolling until about 10pm. Not every night, so you need to check with the locals, but Friday, Saturday and Sunday are pretty much guaranteed. I helped close the place down one Saturday night at 2:30am.
o Best local food spots, in my humble opinion are Mi Banana, Bobbejan’s (only open on weekends) and Posada Para Mira – which is located in Rincon. Great place for lunch if doing northern dive sites which require a return through Rincon. Excellent Goat Stew and Iguana. They are open every day except Tuesday and Thursday.
o Speaking of which, everything north of 1,000 Steps is one way and requires a drive through Rincon and over to the east coast before getting back into downtown.

Marriott notes and observations:

Pros-

1. Location is convenient. It is super close to the airport and downtown
2. Daily housekeeping. Always nice to come back to a clean room, your bed made, fresh towels, mopped floors.
3. Consistent AC, Internet access and TV, etc. – It also has all of the other amenities you’d expect in a Marriott business travel hotel. On site ATM machine, work out facilities, 24/7 staff access.
4. Nice infinity pool and jacuzzi

Cons-

1. Parking and access to room: There was ample parking for me, but I was there in low season and I could see it being an issue in high season. The parking is not located close to the rooms. If you stay there and are diving, you need to request ahead of time a room in building 1 or 6, which put you closer to the dive shop, front desk and parking. You will be further from the pool and restaurant, but for my 2 cents, I’d rather be closer to my vehicle and dive shop than the pool and restaurant. It is quite a long walk from the parking area to the rooms at the far end of the complex.
2. Lots of mixed reviews on the restaurant. Food quality appeared to be quite good, but service is real iffy and everything takes quite a bit of time. Personally, I never ate one meal there. Too many good restaurants in town. I used my free $20 each day for beverages. Also, the restaurant is open air. No AC, fans are poorly placed, ineffective and the restaurant is not positioned to take advantage of the easterly breeze—so, stifling at times.
3. Super small mini fridge in the room. Tough to get much in there. No kitchen or ability to cook one’s own meals, if that is important. It wasn’t for me. I always had fruit on hand for breakfast, ate lunch at one of the food trucks while between dives and had dinner out each night.
4. Nice safe, large enough for a laptop; but positioned on the floor, inside the closet. Wasn’t an issue for me, but I could see a lot of people being put off by having to get on hands and knees to lock/unlock and store stuff.

Easiest Shore Dive Sites

I thought about listing my favorite dive sites, but that is so subjective to each diver. Since Bonaire is primarily a shore diving Mecca, I thought I would list what I consider to be the most convenient and easiest dive entries and exits.

• Pink Beach (northern end, past the last palm tree)
• Bachelor Beach
• Windsock
• Corporal Meiss
• Any of the resort pier locations (Den Laman/Sand Dollar, Buddy Dive, Captain Don’s)- all need to be negotiated if not staying there. Captain Don’s is really cool and chill. Happy to let you dive from there as an outsider.
• The Lake (can be really easy, but you need to scope it out well)
• Oil Slick Leap (kind of easy and kind of not .. depends)
• Vista Blue
• An unmarked dive site that I am naming after myself and you will have to message me to get the location—also my new favorite dive site on Bonaire. 
• Tolo used to be, but it got hammered by the Southern winds and swells and is much trickier presently. Karpata has also become much more challenging this past month.
• Boka Slaagbai and Wayaka 2 (both in the National Park)

East Coast Diving

Purposefully not commenting on East Coast in this report. Those in the know, know who to dive with. Those not in the know, can go online and research it.
 
Nice report sir! You missed out on boka bartol and playa benge in the park, those are better and more special than the others...

Always wondered how you people can do 30 days in a row, average 3 dives a day. Crazy hahaha.

Ow there are still quite some unmarked sites in between the official yellow stone marked ones. Where did you go? (See pm)
 
Nice report sir! You missed out on boka bartol and playa benge in the park, those are better and more special than the others...

Always wondered how you people can do 30 days in a row, average 3 dives a day. Crazy hahaha.

Ow there are still quite some unmarked sites in between the official yellow stone marked ones. Where did you go? (See pm)
Sent you a PM on the dive site. We did pull in and look at Bartol and Benge. Conditions and entry/exit were such that we moved down to Wayaka 2.
 
I always enjoy your trip reports. We're heading back to Bonaire in October. Your info will be a good reference.

Thank you!
 
Great report TB. sorry we missed you not arriving until end of Oct.
 
• An unmarked dive site that I am naming after myself and you will have to message me to get the location—also my new favorite dive site on Bonaire. 
Thank you so much! The wife (non-diver) and I are headed there this Feb for the first time staying in the Punt Vierkant area for just 1week. Would like to try your unnamed new favorite dive site. Please PM me.
 
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