Best super macro lenses for Sony Rx100 IV

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NicolasH

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Location
Singapore
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I have a Sony compact rx 100 iv with a fantasea housing. Looking for best configuration for super macro. currently have an Inon ucl165 (+6) and a AOI ucl09 (+12.5). My aim is to capture a clear facial portrait of a skeleton shrimp. Can't seem to get the facial details out when i stack both my lenses, attached best unedited/ uncropped picture i could capture:(

any ideas for best wet lenses configuration? noticed that AOI has recently released a UCL900 Pro (+23.5). Has anyone got experience with that?

Appreciate the help guys!:)
 

Attachments

  • 23907EAB-CD45-40CB-A903-C33318CB375E.jpeg
    23907EAB-CD45-40CB-A903-C33318CB375E.jpeg
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I can't tell from your picture, but what aperture were you using? The picture is not sharp, which might be focus, or lenses, or camera movment, or diffraction from too-small an aperture, or the fact that it is low-resolution, i.e. not all the pixels.
In other words, how do you know the problem is just magnification?
Were you using a strobe, or a video light? If the latter, what shutter speed were you using?
 
Were you close enough? Macro lenses limit your maximum distance to the subject, 165mm for the UCL165 , 90mm for the ucl09, about 60mm for both stacked, or 40mm for the UCL900Pro. Anything further away can't be sharp. A stronger diopter will make things worse if you can't get close enough.
 
Looking at increasing diopter magnification might not be the best route. The SONY RX100 series are great compacts but tough to measure up to interchangeable lens cameras with great macro lenses. I looked at some online skeleton shrimp shots on, for example Bluewater photo. They were shot with great lenses and no more than a SUbsea +10 diopter. Then the RAW files were processed with super editing skill. Anyway, good luck in your quest. Its challenging, but fun to have a goal like this.
 
Anyway the easiest approach is probably to start with the weak +6 diopter and get a sharp picture first. With the RX100 at 70mm tele zoom setting, the subject needs to be in a distance between roughly 5cm and 15cm I guess. The stronger diopters will only allow you to get closer for a better magnification, but they also make focusing and lighting more difficult, not easier.
 
I can't tell from your picture, but what aperture were you using? The picture is not sharp, which might be focus, or lenses, or camera movment, or diffraction from too-small an aperture, or the fact that it is low-resolution, i.e. not all the pixels.
In other words, how do you know the problem is just magnification?
Were you using a strobe, or a video light? If the latter, what shutter speed were you using?
I can't tell from your picture, but what aperture were you using? The picture is not sharp, which might be focus, or lenses, or camera movment, or diffraction from too-small an aperture, or the fact that it is low-resolution, i.e. not all the pixels.
In other words, how do you know the problem is just magnification?
Were you using a strobe, or a video light? If the latter, what shutter speed were you using?

i was on f/11. not sure why the resolution is lower when i upload the picture :/ i was pretty near the subject already and couldnt get a focus anything nearer. i was using 2 x Z330 and a 3800lumen video light to help with focusing. shutter speed around 1/125
 
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Were you close enough? Macro lenses limit your maximum distance to the subject, 165mm for the UCL165 , 90mm for the ucl09, about 60mm for both stacked, or 40mm for the UCL900Pro. Anything further away can't be sharp. A stronger diopter will make things worse if you can't get close enough.

hmmm okay... thanks for the tip... havent really taken notice of the working distance reduction for the higher diopters.. 40mm seems pretty bad
 
214A9A8A-A59D-45D7-A5E0-9155B10D872B.jpeg


this is a cropped version not sure if this is any better. sorry for spamming but the pixel allowed may have degraded the actual clarity.
 
View attachment 518644

this is a cropped version not sure if this is any better. sorry for spamming but the pixel allowed may have degraded the actual clarity.
It is still only a 0.5Mp image, 800x600. And may actually be sharp, but I can't tell. Try cropping the face of the guy on the right and upload a full resolution version.
What is the smallest aperture on your lens? If f/11, then that is a problem.

Focus is very difficult at those magnifications. Best practice is to get close in focus, then rock back and forth for the final sharp focus.
 
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