Best Strobe for Ikelite housing & Oly 3000?

[JJacobe]

Ok, my first time starting a thread.....

I'm hoping that someone can guide me to the best strobe package for the #6130.1 housing and Olympus C3000. Ikelite recommends:

1.) #3944.77 Deluxe Package ($ 1,050) includes:

* #4100.6 Manual Controller
* #4065 DS-125 SubStrobe with diffuser
* #4086.61 Ball Socket Arm system
* #4063.1 USA plug Smart Charger

2.) #3944.44 Digital Package ($ 500) includes:

* #4100.6 Manual Controller
* #4044 DS-50 SubStrobe
* #4075.1 Strobe Arm system

Any input is welcome. I picked up the housing for next to nothing. It matched the Oly I already owned. The pics I've taken without a strobe are Ok, but I sure love the shots I've seen taken with a strobe. The Ikelite packages are likely more than I'm able to spend.

I'd like to praise the posters on this board. You are so helpful to novices like myself!

 

[Dee]

JJ...I don't know enough about Ike's stuff to give you accurate advice. Just wanted to ask...what took you so long to start threads?

 

[JJacobe]

JJ...I don't know enough about Ike's stuff to give you accurate advice. Just wanted to ask...what took you so long to start threads?

Well, after lurking about :lurk_2: it seemed like about time. I'd have won a bet guessing that Dee would be the first responder.

I don't want to limit myself to just Ikelite's stuff. I am open to any and all recommendations!

 

[Dee]

Well...I've always had excellent results with the Oly housings. However the PT-10 and PT-005 are both out of production. You can still find an occasional used PT-10. But the Ikelite may be your best bet.

The reason I went with the Oly PT housing with my first camera, a C-4040, was the size of the Ikelite and the price. My rig is used gently, as in mostly shore dives and boat dives so I've never felt I needed the more rugged Ikelite. But if you need it, for instance for rocky shoreline entries, then the Ike is the way to go and worth the extra $$.

Since I prefer manual strobes without the TTL stuff, and I already had a S&S YS90DX strobe, that's what I started with. The upgrade to an Inon D-180 came later, again a manual strobe. I really like my flexible Infinity arms to the jointed ones from Ike or ULCS. You can't use Ike's strobes with these arms that I know of. The Keep It Simple Stupid rule has always worked for me.

So after several years and trying several different systems, my current rig is...
C-5050/PT-15, Inon D-180, Infinity arm, S&S WA lens. Simple top use and easy to pack!

And these comments are, of course, only my opinions!

 

[alcina]

I was a bit confused, but I think you already HAVE the Ike housing and the camera, yes?

For strobes...the Ike 125s are very sexy. If you have the cash and are going to be doing a lot of uw stuff, I'd go with these and any bits that Ike recommends.

I would probably go with different arms - I have and love Ike arms, but they are heavy. I also have some ULCS arms that are nice, but a bit fiddly for me. These are probably the most popular & most expensive. They are very light and you can build exactly what you want from their extensive range. Terry there is great help. Currently I am using loc-line arms and I love them to bits...extremely flexible uw, can change their lengths very easily...I have no downsides on them. I'd order the parts from the manufacturer or from a hydraulics website before I'd buy them from a dealer as the dealers seem to mark them up quite a bit. Check out Gilligan's web site for some details.

Another strobe to consider is Inon. Their new D2000 looks nice with psuedo-ttl and 13 manual positions. I have the 220s and love it. 11 manual controls, no ttl. I don't miss the ttl (have it on some Ike strobes).

Here a strobe finder link that might help.

Have fun shopping and let us know what you end up with!!

 

[Arvid]

I have the Olympus C5060 and the olympus PT-020 housing. I use the Epoque ES-150 DS and it works great. the Epoque arm is light and easy to use and you can get the strobe and arm for around $325. the Sea & Sea YS90 is a good choice but will run you twice as much. Both use the fiber optic cable, but the YS90 also does TTL which can give you a better picture when used right. That's assuming your rig does TTL.

 

[JJacobe]

I have the Olympus C5060 and the olympus PT-020 housing. I use the Epoque ES-150 DS and it works great. the Epoque arm is light and easy to use and you can get the strobe and arm for around $325. the Sea & Sea YS90 is a good choice but will run you twice as much. Both use the fiber optic cable, but the YS90 also does TTL which can give you a better picture when used right. That's assuming your rig does TTL.

I do have the housing and one site says this about it:

"Additional lighting:
The camera's built-in flash can be used underwater but an external light-source, placed further from the lens, improves photographs by reducing backscatter. Housing accepts optional Ikelite Digital strobes DS-50 or DS-125 with remote TTL slave sensor. When used with DS-series strobe and TTL slave sensor, the system can duplicate the pre-flash and automatic flash output control used by some of the Olympus cameras."

I really appreciate the input and suggestions for where to learn more before I make a purchase. The DS-125 sure looks better and better, but the dollars are a bit steep. :116:

 

[Dee]

Man...I should read a little better! I missed that you already had the Ike housing. Do you already have the Ike tray?

alcina and I use the same arms. I don't think there's a way to attach them to the Ike tray, but I could be wrong...happens all the time!

 

[SwimsWithSharks]

I have both the ds-125 and the ds-50. If I were picking just one strobe, I would go with the ds-125. The differences between the two packages is the arms and the strobe/charger. I like the wider coverage of the ds-125 and I think the color is a little warmer. I started out with a single ds-50. Added a ds-125 and am now adding my second ds-125. I think the ds-125 is a better strobe to grow with.

Don't get me wrong, the ds-50 is a fine strobe. I just like the 125 better and I find it suits my needs better. I do like the ball socket arm better. It is much easier to adjust.

You might want to check with Ryan at Underwater Camera Pros. He is great about providing advice and providing superbe customer service.

 

[ABQdiver]

I would probably go with different arms - I have and love Ike arms, but they are heavy. I also have some ULCS arms that are nice, but a bit fiddly for me. These are probably the most popular & most expensive. They are very light and you can build exactly what you want from their extensive range. Terry there is great help. Currently I am using loc-line arms and I love them to bits...extremely flexible uw, can change their lengths very easily...I have no downsides on them. I'd order the parts from the manufacturer or from a hydraulics website before I'd buy them from a dealer as the dealers seem to mark them up quite a bit. Check out Gilligan's web site for some details.

Not to hijack JJ thread, but I have some questions on the Loc-line arms. I realize that different trays and different stobes require different fittings to be attached to the arms. Where do you get those?

From reading, these loc-line were basically made to provide hydralic fluid to milling locations so there hollow right?

I've got a Oly 4040 with PT-10 housing now and have seriously considered the Inon 180 strobe. That new 2000 is looking pretty sexy as well. What pieces parts/adapters would I need to attach the strobe to the tray.