Belize (Placencia, Ambergris Caye) trip report - July 2010

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stargost

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Location
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Highlights:

- Very good vacations ! One week sailing in Placencia, managing a few dives in this area (within the reef) and one week in AC at Ramons.
- Don’t change any money in the US, as you’d get killed with the exchange rate. Bring cash USD instead!
- Lots of activities beyond diving and lots of decent bars and restaurants. But pricing are somehow high, clearly an indications of where the tourists are from. Hotels on the other hand are good and reasonably priced.
- I would not recommend July for best time to go there (and obviously after ALEX, not end of June either). We got lucky as only 2 days of bad rains, and when we were moving from one place to another. But having that weather for an entire week would be nasty.
- Like probably everywhere, there are good and friendly DM, and stupid/useless ones!
- Water temp always >86F…. No need for wetsuit (3mm is ok, at max!)

Only diving video available so far: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxzKewiTmMg


1/ Pacencia

The south of Belize and the area really look like isolated, and ‘next to the jungle’ type of place. It’s small, quiet, and friendly. There are plenty of activities in land. I’d certainly recommend doing the Monkey river tour, and certainly the others proposed. We saw Manatees in the mangrove, and plenty of wild life. Really cool !
But if you get in the forest at this time of the year, strong mosquito repellent is a MUST. After a long debate before the trip, we decided to get quinine, and based on the number of bites, no regret on decision. Maybe there is very low malaria risk, but it only take one bite!
Shopping in Placencia is little challenging. You need to be creative and accept it’s not Costco. Funny how different it is compared to San Pedro.
The inside reef islands (from Placencia to the Queens Cayes) are really nice. Very quiet (except during the night with really impressive thunderstorms), nice little islands, lots of good snorkeling places, and marine life (Dolphins, osprey, etc…)
We did a few dives, but it wasn’t outstanding. If I’d go back there for diving, I’ll go to Gloover and won’t stay within the reef.
First, 2 tanks dive at 105$/p is just not worth the value. Then, if flore life is ok, there were not that many animals. Much less than in AC. Whether large or small stuff. Also (and maybe only at this time of the year), the inside reef is full of trash. It is really impressive. With currents, some areas got really bad, and not only at the surface, but also down. Plenty of plastic, bottles, etc. Really sad.

2/ Ambegrys Caye / San Pedro.

We stayed at Ramons. We really liked the hotels and the bungalows. It is well located, and well organized.
We only took a partial package (6nights inc. breakfasts+4days/2tanks), and because we ended up having several lunchs and dinners, it was a mistake. The saving of getting at least half of the staying within a fully included package would save a lot. (basically, half of the menu pricing…).

There are many really good diving locations outside the reef. They are similar, but still always different. It’s large canyons starting around 40ft down to ~100/110. Diving around up and down within these Canyon is amazing. You end up seeing different stuff all the time, and feel you dive at a different place too, which is really nice.
The inside reef closest dive site (Hol Chan) is a small reef pass, and is really cool!
Max depth 29ft, but the amount of marine life you have there is amazing. I’d say the best spot for the all family. From Large turtles, barracuda and nurse sharks to tiny little shrimps and huge school of fish. Really an amazing spot.

Ramons dive club: I thought it was the reference, and got a little disappointed. The manager & 'deputy' were a pain. No information provided ahead of time. Always had to beg, eventually complain to get to what was possible.
The way they run their dives days is something like: 9am first dive in a deep area (80ft), then back, 11am, second dive in a more shallow (60ft), then back, at 2pm another dive either at Hol chan, or outside the reef in a shallow area.
But sometimes it differs, and you don’t really know until the last minutes. True it depends on the conditions and the number of divers, but still not well explained, and certainly not in a friendly way.
One DM almost ruined our diving as he brought my 12y into a deep dive. We had to stay at 50-60, but the fact she stayed mid water with 50ft above and 50ft below got her dizzy. Because of that she didn’t do all the planned dives.
But 2 other DMs (Gil and Will) and one boat captain were really nice and friendly. Funny to see the correlation about: DM saying hello, chating, doing a long detailed dive briefing = good under water, vs a DM not even talking to you till you arrive at the dive site, or when asked about where we go: “Diving” , and then <20s site explanations, eventually as bad in the water too.
Well, it makes the tipping very easy.
Consequence: I liked the hotel, and indeed the way it is organized with the dive club so close, but will not go back there. When a place is supposed to set the reference, some of the things I saw are not really acceptable when it adds up: including rental equipment: dive light not working, but you still have to pay, borrowing a pair a fins, you still pay 15$ (price for Fins/Mask/snorkel), most if not all of the tanks were leaking bad, including at the valve/tank, someone had a BCD corr. hose which broke during a dive, and then, some boats have a way to put the tanks which can easily pitch the wing or BC.

But don’t get me wrong, with only one exception, we did enjoy all the other dives A LOT !!

Others stuff in San Pedro:

Dinner at Sunset on the mangrove side is cool. Plenty or Tarpon fish waiting, and if you are lucky you’d see crocodile !
Dinner at the Jerk terrace, in front of the ocean, I can recommend as well (one rare place you can order a real full fish and not only filet !).
But most of the places are similar and good.

We didn’t go to the Mayan Ruins, but did the Cave Tubing and the Belize zoo.. This is really worth it. Pricey like everything else (180USD), while considering the trip, it’s probably not that bad. But definitely an experience ! We also liked the (small) Zoo a lot.

Conclusion:

No doubt these were outstanding vacations. Belize seems to be one of these Diving paradise place, but you do have many other things to enjoy.
We’ll probably go back there some days, as there are all the Turn Reef sites we didn’t dive.
With only a couple of exceptions at the Ramons dive club, we also found the people there very friendly. Whether in Restaurants or when service are concerned, but also in the street.


Back to reality now (I mean <65F water dive :wink:
 
I have been diving at Ramon's twice. Two years ago, it was great, great DM's, etc. Last year a new dive buddy went with me and did his OW cert. The boss is a dick, but Gil did a fair job with my bud on his OW. The first year my wife and I stayed at Ramon's, pricey rooms, pricey food. Last year we stayed at The Palms condos next door (The Palms Oceanfront Suites - Come stay with us...). For nearly the price of one room at Ramon's we got a 2 bdrm., 2 bath condo with a great balcony on the beach with a pool. I'll return to The Palms, but dive with a shop down the beach which there are many.:cool2:
 
Forgot to mention that Ramon's is now owned by an American corp. We met the original owner, Ramon, who is Belizian. He said he still "consults" for Ramon's but they offered him too much money to refuse the sale. He said, "nope, not what it used to be". Pretty place, best beach in San Pedro, but way too pricey. The Palms shares the same stretch of beach.
 
I was certified on AC in 1992 and have since been to Belize numerous times, taking friends to see the sights on the mainland. Haven't heard reports about some phenomenal places that don't seem to hit the cruise ship radar- skip the Belize Zoo and the zip lines...take a rental car up into the Cayo District /San Ignacio ...check out Rio Frio Caves- a place I consider one of the most wonderful natural wonders, the Rio An Falls, Thousand Ft Falls, Caracol- for the best Mayan ruins IMO..head up to St Augustine area and visit the Garcia Sisters' place for Indian herbs/cures. I quit going to AC because the Texans started coming down whining about how their French Fries were soggy and because prices became ridiculous for a plate of fish rice and beans...20 bucks? Really?And now the cruise ships....!
 
Forgot to mention that Ramon's is now owned by an American corp. We met the original owner, Ramon, who is Belizian. He said he still "consults" for Ramon's but they offered him too much money to refuse the sale. He said, "nope, not what it used to be". Pretty place, best beach in San Pedro, but way too pricey. The Palms shares the same stretch of beach.

Ramons is owned by an American called Richard Heidrick and it has been owned by him?his company since before I even arrived in Belize in 91 over 20 years ago, Ramon was the original owner and stayed on when Richard bought the place but the message above indicates that it recently changed hands and that is incorrect its been the same owners for over 20+ years

Gaz Cooper
 
It has been suggested that the owner has become a "born-again" Christian. A few months ago it was rumoured that alcohol would no longer be available at the resort, but it didn't take long before the economic realities of life took over (who wants to go to a bar that doesn't sell alcohol, or have a meal in a restaurant that can't sell you a beer or a glass of wine?) and this idea was dropped.

Ramon's Village Resort now displays large billboard signs all over San Pedro advertising the resort. Even at the top end of town, a long, long way from the resort. The one by the airstrip is an enormous neon sign which wouldn't be out of place in Times Square. It's certainly out of place in San Pedro, and one can only guess at what/who had to be paid to get it allowed. Between adverts for the resort, it also informs the viewer that "the Wages of Sin are Death" and other such edifying and improving slogans.

I'm sure Gaz is right. There's been no visible change in ownership at Ramon's in the nine years I've been here, though the nature of that ownership does seem to have evolved.
 
I'm probably coming to Sunbreeze for a week with local dive shop in late April. Breakfast is the only meal included in our package price. For budget planing, what are price ranges for lunch and dinner options?
 
You can spend what you wish on lunch and dinner lots of options as expensive as you want Lunch $20 US dinner $50

or cheapo $7.50 lunch $15

it really depends if you eat at all the tourist places or choose some local fare

Gaz Cooper
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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