Bauer K20 not building pressure - troubleshooting help

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

diverKR

New
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Hawaii
# of dives
1000 - 2499
Aloha,
I am currently running a Bauer K20 aboard a ship. Today while starting it up we heard a loud pop within the first 5-10 seconds. I immediately shut the compressor off and tried to identify anything amiss. Nothing obvious was seen and no hiss or woosh of air was heard. When starting it again the oil pressure comes up, but have no building pressure in any of the other gauges (1st-4th stage).

By suggestion we checked the intake (clean and clear) and it has constant suction, which was suggested that it could be a 1st stage coil issue. We soaped it up and could find, hear or feel no leaks. Is there something else I should look at next? I have rebuild kits for all 4 stages, but not keen on opening up the heads, unless there is a good chance to find/fix something.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
Put your hand over the outlet end of your auto condensate drain hose, if there is air flow whilst the compressor is running, your auto condensate solenoid valve has a problem.
 
Thanks. Will give it a try in the morning.
 
Tested this morning.
No air coming coming from the end of the automatic condensate drain hose. No blow back at oil dipstick either. Was noticed that the 1st stage gauge actually builds just a bit <10 psi.
 
On the Bauer the 1st stage inlet valve is a flutter valve, approx the same diameter as head and also does duty as the the 1st stage outlet valve. It weighs well over a pound and is about 3/8" thick.
Easy to swap out, just unbolt the head and it lies on top of the cylinder right under the head. After replacing tighten the bolts in a crosswise pattern like you would do on a car cylinder head and should do when swapping tires on your car.

Remember, regarding the bolts, after tight comes broken off!:rant:

Michael
 
Thanks Namereg58 and Michael! I appreciate the input and advice. I'm going to wait until we return to port to open the 1st stage since I'm required to air test after this type of repair. We'll be running a much smaller compressor to get by in the meantime.
 
No head off on the K20 mate

full.jpg


I never remember which first stages have the reed valves and which the valve valves
 
Up to the K14 and IK 12.14 are reed valve plates and K15 and up have individual valves.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom