Bauer JR 2 220/60 to 230/50 conversion

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

mr335

New
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Hi All
So I have a Bauer JR 2 yachting package. It has auto drain and auto shutoff. I bought a French boat with a genny thats 230 Volt. My current Bauer is setup for USA voltage. I spoke with Bauer, purchased a new motor, sheave and belt.

Bauer said these are the only parts I need to swap and the rest of the circuit will work with the Euro voltage conversion.

I noticed the hour meter says 110 volts so now I question Bauers position about the conversion. I will prolly end up bringing the compressor to them or their repair facility but I figured I'd ask here to see if anyone has an opinion.

Cheers and thanks

MIke
 
If the hour meter is 110 volt you have started with a problem

Now you also need to confirm if your new motor is 230 volt 60 Hz and if this new French Yacht "genny" set is also 60Hz to match and not 50Hz as is common with some French yachts also run.

230volt at 50Hz is standard French supply if so and you have a 60Hz compressor and try running on a 50Hz supply then you will also need to consider changing the auto condensate drain solenoid, also the magnetic starter relay, also the power on light. etc etc.

Now this is assuming this "Yacht package" you call is the American package build by the American distributor for Bauer and was sold as a 110 or 230 VAC but both at 60 Hz the two options they offered from memory.

Further as you have a French yacht just make sure this "genny" set is also 60Hz (and not 50Hz which is exclusive in France/Europe).

Either way the company your proposing using never ask you the fundamental question before selling you stuff and for that alone IMHO I would find a better vendor or be prepared to pay big time "yachty" rate.
 
There should be a nameplate on the old motor. Does it say 220V/60Hz?

It seems possible the hour meter might be fed off one of the legs of the 220V supply. It's also quite possible that it would be just as happy keeping the correct time at 115V/50Hz as it was at 110V/60Hz, depending on what kind it is. For example: ENM Company - T44E69A - Hour Meter; Rect. w/ Holes; 6-Digit; Non-Volatile Memory; 115-275VAC/VDC; 50/60Hz - Allied Electronics & Automation

Then again, it might just reflect 5/6 of the actual time, which would not be a complete disaster as long as you know about it.
 
You could drive it with a VFD and keep the motor generator combo as it is. Added benefit is soft start against the generator.
and likely less expensive than replacing the motor and soft starter. Finding single phase output vfd's is a bit of a production, but not that bad...
 
and likely less expensive than replacing the motor and soft starter. Finding single phase output vfd's is a bit of a production, but not that bad...

Crap, I work in industrial and my ind lives in a 3 phase world. Since I suggested it let me go find it
 
I looked up the specs on the Jr 2 and assume it't the 3hp model.

I've personal used Invertek with good results. Steer far and wide with the cheap-o Chinese ones.

AC Drive Model: ODE-3-220105-1 | General Purpose Variable Frequency Drive, Latest Generation

This the 2.2kw which spot on with the nameplate. The next size up is 4kw which would give some cushion but necessarily needed.

Honestly I've never done a single phase output, I believe one would need to disconnect the start and run caps. If this is a route you want to go we could dive into it.

If the genny is big, you already bought the parts then just do that.

Now to actually answer your question :) Just buy a new hour meter as I don't believe the euro genny would have a neutral to grab.

Enjoy
 
@Billy Northrup there are 1p output vfd's, but have to find them.

@mr335 what is the actual "euro voltage" on the motor? It may not be an issue to just use it as is. 220-230-240vac don't matter to the motor, nor does 50hz vs 60hz. Higher voltage and higher hz mean it will spin faster, but it won't hurt anything. Only issue would be if it's wired up for 208vac, but that's unlikely. Share the actual nameplate on the motor, take a pic of it if you can, and we can provide more assistance.
 
@Billy Northrup there are 1p output vfd's, but have to find them.

@mr335 what is the actual "euro voltage" on the motor? It may not be an issue to just use it as is. 220-230-240vac don't matter to the motor, nor does 50hz vs 60hz. Higher voltage and higher hz mean it will spin faster, but it won't hurt anything. Only issue would be if it's wired up for 208vac, but that's unlikely. Share the actual nameplate on the motor, take a pic of it if you can, and we can provide more assistance.

The 1ph is in the link above, the datasheet covers all the models in that line.

Outside the scope here but here is a flyby on some of the things I do with VFD's. I like to use 1800 RPM motors @60 Hz in the 208-240 range. Most motors have a 600v breakdown rating on the insulation, so I can run a 208-30 motor on 480 by spinning it at 120hz equaling 3600 rpm and double the HP. Here at the house my voltage is on the high side at 250 volts spit phase but that's way to hot for my 208 compressor (besides I need to 3p anyway) When I put the nameplate values in the VFD and it compensates accordingly and I can spin the compressor a bit faster I think the math was like 71hz or something. Another air compressor I set a speed range of 50-70hz and put the VFD in constant current mode so when the load is light is spins faster and as the load builds is slows down.

When I get some tinker time (priority is moving to FL) I want to take automate my tri-hunter. I can set the O2/HE as a constant as the compressor builds pressuer the volumetric efficiency changes and will compensate for that by controlling compressor speed..I like to complicate simple tasks :wink:
 

Back
Top Bottom