attaching an fo cable to an Olympus housing
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Warmwater Wank
Contributor
Hey Lorne. This topic has been covered before of course and doing a "search" will lead to some good answers for a variety of techniques. On the other hand (if you are "handy") you could just buy some "sticky back transparent velcro" at RadioShack (which technically isn't Velcro but works better than Velcro underwater) and adhere one piece to the housing and the other to the cable. Your choice of how to attach the cable to the Stickyback...or do a "search" for more specific help. You'll want to be able to attach the FO cable easily to the housing yet keep it securely in place while in use--plus remove it easily after diving . Stickyback is cheap--a few bucks for several strips.
Also you would probably find, in doing a "search", the notion that an Exacto knife or similiar can be used to cut the FO cable at a 45 degree angle (it cuts easily) in order to give plenty of surface area to carry the flash impulse to the strobe slave sensor, which is where I assume you want to send it? A hole in the diffuser might work but it might be harder to make the cable stay in the hole in the right position.
If the diffuser comes off maybe just leave it off and black out the on-board strobe, using opaque tape or some exposed and developed (black) slide film inside the housing? Park the Stickyback right in front of that space w/out the diffuser in the way, leave a small hole in the masked off area for the on-board flash to hit the FO cable. FO is amazingly efficient at triggering most slaved strobe units.
I'm guessing this may help but you haven't said much about exactly what strobe you want to attach the cable to, the camera model etc, which is why a "search" (hint...) could help with better answers than I'm giving. Oh and welcome to ScubaBoard, home of many helpful folks--and just a few smart alecks!!
// ww
Also you would probably find, in doing a "search", the notion that an Exacto knife or similiar can be used to cut the FO cable at a 45 degree angle (it cuts easily) in order to give plenty of surface area to carry the flash impulse to the strobe slave sensor, which is where I assume you want to send it? A hole in the diffuser might work but it might be harder to make the cable stay in the hole in the right position.
If the diffuser comes off maybe just leave it off and black out the on-board strobe, using opaque tape or some exposed and developed (black) slide film inside the housing? Park the Stickyback right in front of that space w/out the diffuser in the way, leave a small hole in the masked off area for the on-board flash to hit the FO cable. FO is amazingly efficient at triggering most slaved strobe units.
I'm guessing this may help but you haven't said much about exactly what strobe you want to attach the cable to, the camera model etc, which is why a "search" (hint...) could help with better answers than I'm giving. Oh and welcome to ScubaBoard, home of many helpful folks--and just a few smart alecks!!
// wwPrior to posting, I did wade through detailed descriptions of covering the flash with developed slide film, ISO 200 - right?. Cutting an $80 retail Sea and Sea L-type cable at a 45 degree angle seems wrong to me. Wouldn't all the light leak out? 
It does seem that the L-type wants to point straight in at the flash on a typical Oly housing (mine's pt-030.) Or I'd be curious to know if people have had good results with Divervision's 10Bar Fiber Optic Cable Kit for Sea&Sea Strobes, though it wouldn't "L" out the back of a YS-110a or other Sea and Sea strobes.
It does seem that the L-type wants to point straight in at the flash on a typical Oly housing (mine's pt-030.) Or I'd be curious to know if people have had good results with Divervision's 10Bar Fiber Optic Cable Kit for Sea&Sea Strobes, though it wouldn't "L" out the back of a YS-110a or other Sea and Sea strobes.
Warmwater Wank
Contributor
Lorne--This thread might offer some help:
http://http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/canon-corner/273988-how-attach-fiber-optic-cable-wp-dc28.html
This link had a 6' FO cable from Newegg for $15 bucks (+ ship)
http://http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021046
You can cut the thing in half and have 2 for back up. The fitting will go into the YS110-A slave socket in front of the strobe.
You mention the back of the strobe, where a 5 pin synch housing hides out. Ignore my input if you are using this connection--but I don't see how you will make that work with the Oly housing you describe unless it has a 5 pin connection port. You can synch a YS-110-A using a simple (ie-cheap) FO cable stuck into the slave socket on the front of the strobe, triggered by the camera's on-board flash as I described. Going the back of the flash route w/ a 5 pin connector, I dunno--but perhaps I am just woefully confused about what you plan to do.
ISO 200 exposed/processed slide ("transparency") film is not critical, any exposed/processed SLIDE film works. (But Kodachrome 64 is classier...) BTW, cutting the FO cable will not let all the light leak out--water pressure saves the day! // ww
http://http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/canon-corner/273988-how-attach-fiber-optic-cable-wp-dc28.html
This link had a 6' FO cable from Newegg for $15 bucks (+ ship)
http://http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021046
You can cut the thing in half and have 2 for back up. The fitting will go into the YS110-A slave socket in front of the strobe.
You mention the back of the strobe, where a 5 pin synch housing hides out. Ignore my input if you are using this connection--but I don't see how you will make that work with the Oly housing you describe unless it has a 5 pin connection port. You can synch a YS-110-A using a simple (ie-cheap) FO cable stuck into the slave socket on the front of the strobe, triggered by the camera's on-board flash as I described. Going the back of the flash route w/ a 5 pin connector, I dunno--but perhaps I am just woefully confused about what you plan to do.
ISO 200 exposed/processed slide ("transparency") film is not critical, any exposed/processed SLIDE film works. (But Kodachrome 64 is classier...) BTW, cutting the FO cable will not let all the light leak out--water pressure saves the day!
// ww
under water
Contributor
To attach the FO cable to the housing you can use this. ($12.99 + Shipping)
You can unscrew the FO cable and insert the one that fits your strobe.
Intova Px25 : Cables / Accessories / Cameras [ 1 Review ]
You can cover it up with some tape to eliminate backscatter or use the slide film thingy.
Google 'INTOVA PX25' to get more prices.
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