Aqua Lung SEA Regulator - Spring Retainer Frozen

[tech3324]

A friend gave me a SEA 1st stage that was condemned by a lds because they couldn't disassemble it for service. The 30mm Spring Retainer is solidly frozen in place and I can't rotate it with reasonable force. The assembly torque is supposed to be 20 ft-lbs, but this one wouldn't budge at twice that. It's impossible to apply more torque than that because there's no way to secure the reg body from moving, a threaded 1st stage handle isn't up to the job.

Any suggestions on what else to try, penetrating oil, multiple 1st stage handles? Or just give up?

 

[buddhasummer]

I had a similar issue with a MK10 yoke inlet, I let it sit in fresh water for a few days. Then alternated between very hot water and a refrigerator, in the end I attached a first stage holding tool to a hP port and jammed the handle under the tire of my car and stood on the T bar attached to the socket, it finally broke free. On the SEA there's only a few threads connecting it to the body, I certainly wouldn't give up. It'll break free just a question of what combination will do it. US? If your first stage handle is squared can you not put it in vice? Good luck.

 

[buddhasummer]

Leave it soaking in a vinegar solution for 10 mins, that might do it assuming it's corrosion that's causing the bind.

 

[runsongas]

you got a bench vise? stick the first stage holder into the vise, use a wrench and deadblow hammer on the retainer.

 

[tech3324]

Thanks guys. I soaked it overnight and will try the deadblow hammer with a wide jaw 30mm wrench. I forgot I had a deadblow hammer.

I also think I have the wrong 1st stage handle for this task. I have this one First Stage Handle, Heavy Duty, Brass which has vise flats only in the center. Whereas this one First Stage Vise Handle has flats the entire length and is designed for being held securely in a bench vise.

 

[tech3324]

Got it broken free and the regulator disassembled. The sad part is that the lds damaged the spring retainer flats by using too thin a 30mm wrench when they tried and failed to loosen it. But it's still a nice DIN regulator and worth rebuilding.

 

[buddhasummer]

I just picked one up for around $40 that looks to be new or very near to new. When will it stop... if anyone is looking for SEA/Cousteaus, MK10s or G250s let me know, they appear to be breeding in my closet. No sooner did I do a cull when more came up on auction and I couldn't help myself. I need professional help.

 

[tech3324]

I just picked one up for around $40 that looks to be new or very near to new.

Me too! Found a nearly new SEA4 1st, 2nd, and octo for around $40. This was the later model that has 8mm hex plugs at both ends. Seriously heavy 1st stage at 39oz IIRC, may have to do another buoyancy check with this one. I ordered a 26mm yoke nut socket from Scuba Tools and plan to service and dive it soon.

I understand your compulsion to buy them, beautiful pieces of gear at bargain prices.

 

[buddhasummer]

I have 3 later models with the 8mm hex and the latest (new) one is the older slotted version, the chrome is I n pristine condition. I recently bought a whole stock of parts for them for cheap. Most parts are shared with the Titan save a few odd O rings and the filter. I was advised that a conshelf disc filter can be used in its place, I'll check it out this weekend. Those cone filters are hard to find. I don't like the Cousteau yoke knob, it's too long, so have been swapping them for conshelf ones.

 

[buddhasummer]

Interestingly, contradictory to what I believed about diaphragm regs, the ip drops around 6psi from full 3000 to 500psi, they behave the same as my MK10s. Also interesting to me is that a conshelf (21 and 14) ip changes the least of any reg I've ever seen with an increase in ip of around 2psi full to near empty, "old technology" eh...