Aladin 2G battery replacement

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Messages
3
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Location
Denmark
# of dives
100 - 199
The battery indicator on my Aladin 2G dive computer, is down to 3 bars, which indicates that I should change the battery.
I'm leaving for vacation in 2 days and there is not time for having a battery plus o-ring kit send to me. I can probably bye a battery alone.
My plan is to do one day with 2 dives on my vacation.
What are my best options:
1 ) Don't change battery and just rely on the dive masters computer if my own computer shuts down.
2 ) Change battery and keep the old o-ring, no lube.
3 ) Change battery and apply the same silicone lube I use for my camera to the old o-ring. The manual states: "Do not lubricate the O-ring as the lubricant will chemically attack the battery cap."

Thanks.
 
The battery indicator on my Aladin 2G dive computer, is down to 3 bars, which indicates that I should change the battery.
I'm leaving for vacation in 2 days and there is not time for having a battery plus o-ring kit send to me. I can probably bye a battery alone.
My plan is to do one day with 2 dives on my vacation.
What are my best options:
1 ) Don't change battery and just rely on the dive masters computer if my own computer shuts down.
2 ) Change battery and keep the old o-ring, no lube.
3 ) Change battery and apply the same silicone lube I use for my camera to the old o-ring. The manual states: "Do not lubricate the O-ring as the lubricant will chemically attack the battery cap."

Thanks.
 
I would chose option 3.

When battery compartment will flood, the water can’t go to the electronics.

But my uwatec tec 2g didn’t flood after reusing the o-ring.
 
I would rent a backup and dive with the computer as is until you can get it replaced properly.
 
Uwatec/Scubapro unfortunately will not sell battery caps for these directly to customers. Your LDS may be willing to order you one, if you ask nice. That said, I've read a lot of reports of folks using lubricant during battery swaps on these, and have yet to find a report of a battery door being eaten by their lubricant, so you probably don't need a new battery door regardless. I'd go with option #3, in your situation. I have my Tec2G at the LDS right now for a battery swap, but was mostly motivated by wanting them to verify the depth is accurate, because it wildly disagreed with my buddy's computer on my last dive.

The last shop I had replace my battery on it nearly destroyed the door getting it off (which these are prone to, but I figured a dealer might have the correct spanner to do it right, instead of using a quarter) and failed to turn it all the way back on to "locked" position. I don't buy in to the mentality of "the dealer will do it correctly, you might screw it up." You may very well be capable of doing a better job of the simple swap than "having it done right" by a local shop.

If you're really concerned, order the proper o-ring, run it with lubricant for now (or rent for the trip, as @TGIF suggested) and swap in the correct Teflon-coated o-ring when you get back.
 
Swapped the battery on my 2G several times. Lightly lubed, no problems.Often re-use the O-ring. Never read that section on no lube. .
FWIW, there is almost no movement on the O-ring during insertion.
It would be poor engineering (stupid IMO) to use a plastic subject to deterioration by silicone lube. Lots of LSD would end up eating computer replacements because you KNOW the techs aren't going to read the fine details on every computer they change out.
 
I've never replaced the o-ring on either of my 2Gs and have had no problems with them
 
Change the battery and lube the oring.
I think silicone will be fine in the Aladin. I use PTFE lubes wherever I change them, without problem.

Having said that, if you're really planning only one day of diving, three bars will get you through it. Better to not tempt fate and have no computer at all.
 
I use PTFE lubes wherever I change them, without problem.

IIRC the manual states the o-ring is a special "teflon coated" o-ring, and cites that as why no lube is required. Teflon is the DuPont trade name for PTFE, so it stands to reason any PTFE lubricant would do the same damage to the battery door as the factory-spec Teflon o-ring (i.e. none).

Caveat: I could easily be mistaken in my memory of the manual saying anything about teflon o-rings. I know I've read folks here saying the o-rings are a special kind of "silicon impregnated," which is presumably supposed to be "siliconE impregnated," which logic would follow to "it's just a regular, un-special silicone o-ring."

For what it's worth, I intend to order a spare "correct" o-ring through Scubapro so I can measure it and post the dash number (standard trade size identification) here in the next few weeks. I haven't been able to find that info online anywhere, but it would enable everyone using these things to buy new o-rings for a few cents instead of OEM pricing.
 
You are correct, from the manual:

[6. Always insert a new O-ring when you
replace the battery and dispose the old
O-ring. Make sure that the new O-ring
is in perfect condition, and that O-ring,
O-ring groove and the sealing surfaces
are free of dust and dirt. If necessary,
clean the parts with a soft cloth. Fit
the O-ring in the O-ring groove of the
battery cap.
WARNING
7. Use only an original SCUBAPRO O-ring.
This O-ring is Teflon coated and does not
require additional lubrication.
8. Do not lubricate the O-ring as the lubricant
will chemically attack the battery cap.]

Agree that PTFE is just lube on a 'normal' O-ring. I have never seen silicone O-rings on this kind of battery door. Pretty much all manuals always say to replace the O-ring.
If it makes you feel more secure, just make sure both sealing surfaces are clean, and check the O-ring carefully for damage. The original lube should not have worn off as it was in a captive state and had no dynamic wear.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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