Advice/comments on my recsea s95 setup

[MikeWebb]

Hi there all. :admingreet: Just pulled the trigger on a canon s95 and a recsea s95 housing

Just looking at the all the other bits and bobs now.

First off, the interweb is just freakin awsome, so much good info and valid advice from so many people speaking from their own experiences. Good for cutting through the all the marketing blurbs. It did my head in at times doing all that late night forum trawls. On-line shopping and strong aussie doller..again awsome, not limited to the great nothing being offered where I live.

Right now, down to business.

Lenses. Really sold on the idea of bayonet adaptors so I am going to get the Inon UFL-165AD and Inon UCL-165AD lenses (may get another for stacking soon enough as the better half luvs her muck diving so might get into super macro soon enough) . I will attach all this to the housing using the Dyron M67 adapter for Seatool S90/95 housings and the famous 10Bar M67-AD adaptor.

Strobe. Just the one. I think I'll go the INON Z-240. I looked at the s-2000 but it lacked External Auto mode (for s95 manual mode issues) and seemed a bit "weak". The z-240 has a future with the canon 5D if I decide to get a housing for it. Now I know I will need to get the strobe blind mask but what else do I need to get in the way of optical connections? Are these blue type diffusers worth it?

Arms and tray. ULCS Base Tray and arms look alright and have good reviews. I have no idea about the arms, should I get float ones? lengths? two or one? I have worked out that I will need the z-ball adaptor for the INON strobe. I would like to mount the lenses on the arms. I just come across H20-Tools arms and trays and has my attention but have not heard much about them. I would hate to get something that jam up or rust out only after a year or 2 of diving.

Focus lights. Needed? stick it on the shoe or of the arm? Rather fond of the Sola 600 and its red mode for the beloved night dives with no swarm of mystery wigglies.

There, I think that has it about all covered for now. Looking forward to hearing your views. Looking forward even more to geting it all and going diving.

 

[BuceoFilipinas]

Hello Mike,

Thanks to the posts on this subject, specially from Nemrod, I decided of putting together a very similar set up… S95+Recsea+inon bayonet fisheye and macro lens (with same Dyron+10Bar adaptors)…. So far I have one Z240 and planning to try a second hand D2000 with arm included.

Below is a PS composition of the set up including arms/tray I am planning to use (maybe I will remove 1 arm between the Z240 and grip if it comes out too long). So for the Z240 a Z-ball, 3 clamps, 2 fantasea arms and 1 optical fiber cable, on the D2000 the Loc-line arm with ULCS Base Adapter T-Plate, optical cable and both strobes arms and housing over a ULCS base tray TR-D and grip + TRUP extension tray. I may also add an Inon AD Lens Holder for the macro lens and a focuss light on the hot shoe.

If I had to buy the new arms like your case, I would go for “float ones”

Hope it can help… Please post some pictures and experiences when you test your set up…

Any other suggestions will be highly appreciated
Thanks.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

[BuceoFilipinas]

Just put everything together...

 

[Durwin99]

Hello Mike, did you go ahead and get all the kit you mentioned in your post - RecSea, Z240, ULCS base & arms etc? Did you have any problems at all with that configuration if so? I'm planning exactly the same setup, I'm just not sure what ULCS parts I need - looks like the TR-D base, but I can't work out whether it makes a secure fit to the housing without wobbling! Did you consider the Quick-disconnect grip for the base? I've only just seen it, no idea if its any good but sounds useful if you don't want to dive with strobe sometimes. And did you get a lens holder for your AD lenses? The photos from BuceoFilipinas seem to show the lens holder attaching to the base for some reason, ie pointing downwards, which seems a little unprotected to me, I'd prefer it higher on the arm somewhere - maybe its like that because his arms are from another mfr.

Anyway, if you have any comments on your configuration, please do let us know, I'm itching to buy in the next day or two (from Yuzo in Japan, no RecSea dealer here in the UK)
Many thanks!
-Durwin

 

[MikeWebb]

Hi Durwin,
Yep...got the bits, had a few phone calls to Yuzo about some specifics then pulled the trigger only to go away for work for a couple of months, leaving my better half to open all the packages and try and workout how it all goes together

There is no point posting pics as this seems to be a popular combo (for good reason)and there are a load of pics out there already that, surprise, look just like ours.

I ordered the canon s95 and an 8GB SDHC card along with another canon NB-6L battery pack. Maybe I should have looked around for a third party 1400mAh NB-6L (jap cell) but at the time it was just easier to get the canon one. I am about to order a clarivue LCD protector and a custom cut size for the RecSea housing.

I ended up going with the Inon z-240, it just seemed more future proof and more capable/flexible then the d2000 or s2000, it is alot bigger and heavier then expected and if I was looking at a truely compact/light travellers system, maybe I would have gone with a s2000. Not having much experience on these matters I can't say what I would have really lost or gained but I have seen some great shots using the s2000's. All up I am happy with my z-240 pruchase and got the strobe cover to help protect and add just a tad more float to it.

I did not bother with getting blue diffusers that I read some canon users recommending. Shoot RAW and save. Type-L INON optical cable is the one you want for the z-240 type IV, Yuzo's come with the two fittings, use the smaller (wireless) one. The Optical D Cable Type L (length approx. 43cm/17in.) seems long enough for me, even once I get another arm length.

Don't forget to get the strobe blind mask for FIX housing and some batteries (and charger if needed). I ordered the SANYO eneloop AA battery (4p) but should have grabbed another pack at the same time.

For the tray and arms I got the ULCS Base Tray TR-D and TR-DH grip (standard blue grip no quick disconect), I believe that UCLS have a TR-DM new digital tray for housings with two screw holes for attaching on the bottom.

I find that the TR-D tray works fine and the slots allow better positioning for hand size and reaching the control ring knob. Some fashionistas maybe go for the grey handle to match the funky black housings and black z240's. I think the blue looks more fun . Only gotcha I found was:

a) Assemble TR-DH with the TR-D upside down so that it-s lip does not catch on the door and you will need washers with the screws that come with it (if not supplied) as the attachment will be sloppy

b) Place the washer between the gousing and the tray for better clearance door and tray so that the tray wont flex against door, I read somewhere concerns this may lead to leaks.

Not knowing much about arms and worried about making a mistake and making things easier for my partner to put together, I opted for the ULCS arm set that Yuzo does. I went with the 5" arm length to start with. You will need the Z-ball adaptor for the z-240 (AD-IN). Yuzo was clued in enough to know that there was a part not needed in this set as a had ordered a tray and handle, he deducted it from the order as well as adding an extra screw for the tray (2 fixing screws more stable then one)

I am starting to look into float arms now, since I already have clamps etc for 1" balls I have options.

For the lens adaptor side of things I got:
-Dyron M67 adapter for Seatool housings for S90/95 (DY.ADFIXS90)
-10 Bar AD adaptor ring (ADF-M67)
It all snugs up nice but have yet to try it with a lens but this combo will allow me to try out the various M67/AD lenses my freinds have. I did come accross a post (sorry, I can't post links yet) where this guy had some issues/concerns about the 10bar combo but I have not come accross anyone else say they had this issue.

I was tossing up between a couple of macro lenses but have decided on the inon UCL-165AD, I like the stacking option for futureproofing and flexability. When I order it I will be grabing some spare o-rings for the housing as well.

No doubt I forgoten something but all the above I have gleened from from the countless s90/95 threads and sites on the internet. Just need to/want to do way more diving now.

Cheers

Mike

oh and big thanks to all the guys like nimrod and compuguy and others who took the time to find out, experiment and pass on the info.

 

[Durwin99]

Thanks Mike for that update ! Lots of useful information in there... I was recommended the Z240 as it has some kind of functionality over the D-/S-2000 when shooting in full manual on the camera, but I can't remember what it is now, information overload! I was going to get the D2000, Z240 doesn't look any bigger so I may just get it instead. You've got the 5" arm, would you add another 5"? I was thinking the 5" plus 8" eventually, for flexibility - in which case the 17" optical cable may be too short once you factor in the clamps and other bits... will get advice on that!

Don't forget to get the strobe blind mask for FIX housing

I can't see this on the UWdigcam website, is it not supplied with the RecSea housing? I'll have to ask Yuzo for it specifically. Those Eneloops look very good, I'll get a batch off Amazon I think!

I believe that UCLS have a TR-DM new digital tray for housings with two screw holes for attaching on the bottom

I've looked all over and can't find a photo of the BOTTOM of the RecSea housings! Do they have one or two screw holes? But Yuzo did recommend the TR-D to me this week so I guess that's the one to go for still.

Some fashionistas maybe go for the grey handle

I like the blue, obviously no sense of style here!

Assemble TR-DH with the TR-D upside down

Yuzo did tell me to do this, I presume the grip still mounts vertically up... Did you have to ask for the washers to mount between tray and housing? I don't have any to hand...

I opted for the ULCS arm set that Yuzo does

I will do the same, is the part you didn't need the "Direct ball base/T-slide adaptor, I'm not quite sure what those refer to!

Re lenses, I will go with bayonet, I think I'll stump up for the Inon 28AD adaptor, definitely the UCL-165 macro, and debating whether to go UWL-100 28AD wide angle and see if its wide enough for my needs, or the UFL-165 - I don't want the bulk of a fisheye dome if I don't need it, and the only way to find out if I really need it... etc. I will test out the single macro lens on a trip in March if everything arrives on time, I have a trip to Lembeh, Indonesia in Autumn - lots of macro - and may decide on the second UCL-165.

My last lowly canon S70 camera & housing lasted me 6 years (although not happy with the results, that's a different story) so I hope (and I'm going to carry a piece of wood with me the whole time!) this expensive set does the same...

Hey, thanks again for that info, and thanks to all the other regulars on here for their input, can't believe I'm this close to a purchase!
-Durwin

 

[Nemrod]

Thanks Mike for that update ! Lots of useful information in there... I was recommended the Z240 as it has some kind of functionality over the D-/S-2000 when shooting in full manual on the camera, but I can't remember what it is now, information overload! I was going to get the D2000, Z240 doesn't look any bigger so I may just get it instead. You've got the 5" arm, would you add another 5"? I was thinking the 5" plus 8" eventually, for flexibility - in which case the 17" optical cable may be too short once you factor in the clamps and other bits... will get advice on that!

The Z240 is vs the D2000:

1. Slightly more powerful GN24 vs GN20
2. Is gray colored instead of red colored
3. Has a wired sync capability with a few cameras as well as optical, D2000 is optical only
4. The preflash/flash selector switch is a rotary knob on the Z240 and on the D2000 is a magnet
5. The Z240 cost a lot more money than the D2000

Other than that they are identical in size, function, coverage etc. Please note that the equation for strobe GN is:

Underwater GN/Distance = f stop

Underwater GN = Surface GN/3

OK, now plug in GN24 vs GN20 into above equation and see if it is worth the extra money unless you need wired sync?

Re lenses, I will go with bayonet, I think I'll stump up for the Inon 28AD adapter, definitely the UCL-165 macro, and debating whether to go UWL-100 28AD wide angle and see if its wide enough for my needs, or the UFL-165 - I don't want the bulk of a fisheye dome if I don't need it, and the only way to find out if I really need it... etc. I

The UFL165AD has a 50% increase in FOV over the WAL100-28AD and is only SLIGHTLY larger than the WAL100-28AD without the dome and much smaller than said lens with the dome and only slightly more expensive (460 dollars vs 400 dollars and with the dome the WAL100 series lenses are about 800 plus dollars).

N

 

[Nemrod]

I've looked all over and can't find a photo of the BOTTOM of the RecSea housings! Do they have one or two screw holes? But Yuzo did recommend the TR-D to me this week so I guess that's the one to go for still.

The Recsea95 housing which is made by the same company as previously made the FIX90 and is nearly identical to it has two screw holes on the bottoms as does the FIX90 housing. They are 1/4X20 size on both housings with the same exact spacing because they are the very same housing save for minor updates to take the S95 camera.

N

 

[M_Bipartitus]

Sounds like a great setup. Now you just need to practice with it pool dives, easy ow dives and even on land. Experience can improve photos as well as equipment you've already invested int eh equipment, sounds like your ready to invest in some time taking photos and finding out what works best for you.

P.S. I've had mixed results from the off-brand imitation batteries. You can't go wrong with the real canon ones, if you can stomach the cost.

 

[Durwin99]

Thanks for the updates Nemrod - I take your point about the D2000. I think this is the item I was referring to:

4. The preflash/flash selector switch is a rotary knob on the Z240 and on the D2000 is a magnet

The advice I had was that if you wanted to switch the camera between AV/TV mode and full-manual on a dive (manual setting disables the pre-flash it seems), then the Z240 was a better bet. I can't work out what the "magnet" does or doesn't do, is it something you have to insert/remove before the dive? I would like to have the option to shoot manual on the camera without losing capabilities of the strobe ... just don't know enough to say whether the D2000 would be OK for that.
Cheers
-Durwin