Accessory lights for composition

[Scubaroo]

Hi,

Has anyone used underwater aiming lights in UW photography and had any problems with exposure? I'm thinking of adding one on my Nikonos using the accessory mount, and the C-lite holder Ikelite manufacture, for use as a combined dive light, and composition light for macro photography using framers (ie illuminating the subject by pointing the light directly at the subject within the framers, rather than arm mounting, and aiming strobes with it). Seeing as I want to use it for a dive light as well, it needs to be powerful, so I'm looking at the Super C-lite. The question is, will this additional artificial light cause problems with exposure? Or is the flash so much brighter anyway that the additional light from the C-lite is negligible? I think the C-lite mount is intended to be used with the weaker Mini C-lite, which presumably has no adverse effect on exposure.

By mounting the light on the accessory shoe, I can leave my strobes locked in position for the framers, rather than mounting it on an arm like the C-lite mount is intended, and having to re-adjust the arm after each time I use the light as a primary light. To use the light as a dive light on the accessory mount, I just tilt my camera slightly as I move about.

thanks,

Ben

 

[Dee]

I use a small spotting light that's not real bright. I hate bright lights on night dives and try not to be around anyone who uses them. They really scare the normally noctornal fish and creatures and disturbs the natural order of things...even more than our intrusion does.

What I've been using lately is one of those mini-lights about 6" long and big around as my thumb....can't think of the name of it now! I made a holder for it out of inner tube rubber and mount it on my strobe arm base on the right side. If you're interested I can tell ya how.

Anything much brighter than that causes hot spots in the pictures, or least in my experiences.

 

[scorpiofish]

No problem. Your strobe is what lights up the scene. Your aiming light will have no effect. You will probably be shooting TTL anyway.

 

[Scubaroo]

Thanks for your answers. A hotspot is what I am worried about - TTL should treat the dive light as ambient light, but I guess too tight a beam will cause a hotspot. Maybe a dive light diffuser would help to avoid a hotspot (if one is available for a C-lite - I've seen someone use a piece of pantyhose material over a strobe as a makeshift diffuser which could work).

Very interested in hearing how you attach the mini lights Dee - I have a pair of SubStrobe 50's on Ikelite arms. Post a picture of it if you can!

Maybe someone can invent a night-vision dive mask Or did I just give away the 1 original idea left in the world? Actually I'm not doing night dives, but northern california dives, and I find a light is a must have during the daytime anyway. Red starfish should be red when I look at them, not greeny-brown!

 

[Dee]

I don't have my digital camera with me so I'll try to describe it.

First I took a slice from an inner tube 2" wide then cut the 'ring' so it would lay flat.

I then cut an X 1/2" from each end with an Exacto knife. It really stretches so don't worry about getting the opening too small. My X is about 1/2". You can cut a neat round circle but the X is quicker

Wrap this strap around the strobe arm and insert the light through the X's. Position the light where you want it.

If the strap is too long to fit your strobe arm/light, just trim a bit off one end and cut another X.

Remember you want this tight enough to hold that light in position even if it's bumped in some way. It needs to be tight without being stretched to the limit.

Hope this helps!

 

[scorpiofish]

I only addressed one facet of your question. My answer on that one is still good. An aiming light with a power of about 7 watts isn't going to give you a hot spot.

Now, let me enlighten you with my experience with aiming lights.

Aiming lights make lousy dive lights. I use two Ike 200's with built in aiming lights. As advertised, they can be used as your dive light. In practicality, they stink as dive lights, unless you only want to see what you intend to shoot 1.5ft in front of you. Waving my housed camera around to search is pretty silly.

I carry a dive light for general searching. It's cumbersome. Often I just follow other people around with my dive light turned off. With a housed system you need light on the subject to auto focus. Not so with the Nikonos.

If you place the aiming on top of the camera you make it a lot easier, but you still have to swish your camera around to see the world. While I stated that you will not get a hot spot, mounting the aiming light directly above the shoe may light up particulate and create backscatter in your shot. If you mount it high enough to avoid backscatter, you lost that edge you wanted in ease of use as a dive light.

My recommendation would be to go ahead and mount the aiming light on the arm. Use it as an aiming light. You want to see where your framer is so as to position the subject properly.

Carry a dive light to search for critters. Place with lanyard on left wrist. If you want to be creative, get a PClite, lanyard around wrist, velcro or strap the light to the back of your hand so it is pointing straight ahead while gripping the handle. You can then point it wherever you want, while still having the aiming light focused on where your subject will be.

The best deal is having a buddy with a new UK HID light cannon and just follow them around!!!

 

[blacknet]

Hello,

A correctly used aiming/modeling light can make a wonderful photo or a very ugly photo, depending on how it's used. In most cases it won't show up in the end photo. Some cases it can like if your using a limited area flash and the modeling light is pointing in a different area. In this case the camera will see both lights and result in a not-so-good image.

With out a doubt the BEST place for a modeling light is within the strobe if possible. If not then as close as possible and aligned with the strobe. The least desired place is away from the strobe and not aligned. Reason is simple. the mai
n purpose is to align the modeling light where you want the center of the flash to be.

Ed

 

[Scubaroo]

scorpiofish has knocked my idea on the head - I didn't consider backscatter from an accessory shoe mounted light.

Oh well we always dive with a buddy - mine has somewhat limited experience, so I'll have to convince her that all good buddies lead the way with the light while I have all the fun taking photos!

I think when I move from macrophotography to close up wide angle I'll consider arm-mounting a pair of aiming lights, but seeing as I only have SubStrobe 50's they're probably too weak for that anyway - trying it out will tell.