$43 Helios Clone?

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He means for the Battery Pack. Battery Station has some NiMH taht have been sitting on the shelf for a year or so at a discount.
Eric
 
actually i dont, eric as i have already explained

i mean a complete cannister identical to the halcyon and stleath except it is pvc (like diverite uses) instead of delrin just the battery pack would cost about $18

no black magic it is all out of the airspeed press divelite companion book see the 'someone must have tried" thread here for the website

i will be posting pictures of my $43 cannister in a few days soon as i can borrow a digcam

actually it cost less since i got a few parts as samples but $43 is what i figure would cost if you have to buy everything dont want to be accused of exaggerating now do i

yes the cells are a year old but so will the ones you buy new for $7 be in a year still a damn good deal for anyone who wants to get into a nihm cannister cheaply so you have to replace the batteries in 4 instead of 5 years thats not the end of the world and they will probably have something better and cheaper to replace them with then you can buy with all the money you saved

or buy fresh cells and it will be a $100 cannister still a damn good deal

oh and who is to say the factory divelite you buy doesn't have the same cutrate nihms in it ;-)


ericfine50 once bubbled...
He means for the Battery Pack. Battery Station has some NiMH taht have been sitting on the shelf for a year or so at a discount.
Eric
 
Ah, DNAX, thank you....
I started a canister with 2" PVC pipe and fittings. No real magic, as you say. Some parts /info I need, please:
1. I assume a std toggle switch with a waterproof "boot". What kind of boot, where to get it and how to mount it? Other switch ideas?
2. Where to get SS side clips to hold top in place? Or, is there another method/design?
3. Built a lighthead out of 1-1/2 PVC w/ a 20W halogen MR16 - have about $7 in it so far, including bulb. Need a 1-7/8 dia lens that I plan to seal in place - any idea on material and source for lens. All so cheap and simple, if bulb goes, just dispose and throw togeher new head...unless you have good easy idea for removable lens/bulb.
4. Last question - plan to use10 NiMH "C" cells- maybe 11 for added brightness and for voltage loss in cable. This should last at least 90 minutes. Will discharge rate with 20W load overheat batts?

One objective - do all this with no power tools except a hand drill. Had to buy an NPT tap for threading for compression fittings, but that's it.

Tested the lighthead w/ 12V DC power supply. Very bright and broad coverage. Will check for narrower beam MR16. Left it on 1hr in air to test heating & heat resistance of components. Checked everything - all looks good. At hottest, I could still hold in hand - so maybe 130degF or a little more. Anyway, it works and will be much cooler underwater. The whole head is only 2-1/8 dia. and 2-1/4 long.

The biggest prob - the PVC I used is white - so definitely not "cool" looking. Maybe it will look better when it gets DIRty.
(Note - no plans to use this in extended or penetration diving - just as a bright, convenient general purpose dive light for infrequent use)
 
hi to answer all your qs in detail would take an hour and i would just be plagarizing the airspeed book its got part # and suppliers for everyting

ss clips a;ctaully latches are from macmaster-carr big mo idustrial supply house

i use their silicone switch boots too though my new lite has a diverite boot guard combination i got at a flor cave shop

testing divelites out of the water is asking for trouble most will burn up without water to cool them so it doesnt prove anything

go buy yourself a lenght of 2" electrical conduit pvc its just the same as plumbing but is pretty gray

DanL once bubbled...
Ah, DNAX, thank you....
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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