4040 to 5050 ?

[miked]

Hi everyone,
I've had an Oly C4040 for a little over a year, and I really like(d) it.
Unfortunately, the Pt 010 housing flooded on a dive this week, and the camera is toast. I called DEPP, and they instructed me to send it to U/W photo tech people to "verify the flood". When this is done, DEPP said I will have 2 options, (as the 4040 is discontinued):

1) try to get a 4040 on Ebay.
or
2)Upgrade to another camera, presently in production. ( For this option, I am leaning towards the Oly 5050.)

For either choice, DEPP will pay the policy amount.

My question:
How much more complicated is the 5050 vs. the 4040? Is this a "start over " situation, or are the 2 cameras "mostly" similar?
(I've just started the research, so I figured that I'd ask the experts here.)

I realize that a different camera will require a new housing, tray, etc.,($$$) but I'm not sure if I trust the old housing - I'm checking it out, but still not sure why the flood.

Any suggestions-especially about the 4040 vs 5050.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

 

[Finesse]

As you mention before making changes or buying new cameras I'd find out why the housing flooded ...... If its mechanical then I would guess you would get some money for that too......

But If it "human" error then the housing will work for a similar camera (no need to buy another housing unless you go for the 5050)

I would not be to worried about the learning curve to the 5050. Sure there is more going on but its similar to the older cameras .....I had the 3040 prior to this one at first I thought it was a lot different ... but that quickly went away.

With the 5050 you gain some new features like Super macro, wide range of media options, two media slots, my modes (allowing for your own custom presets....works great U/W)


The trust factor in the old housing ...that’s something you need to figure out ..... Other housings are out there .... but they increase in cost from “good deal more” to “a lot more” than the Olympus stuff.....

I think Park Ridge is all the way up in northern NJ ????.... I'd say we could get together and you could check out the U/W stuff I have in person.....

Good Luck

 

[conchnclyde]

Finesse and others who have been taking U/W pics for a while, could you provide your "maintenance program" for your housings. I have read several threads on other sites about the Olympus Housings floodeding (for what ever reason). As simple as the housing is mechanically, I would think that it has to be "o-rings or polymer rupture under pressure".

I have just ordered my equipment + housing, so I haven't received it yet, but what is a good practice for maintenance on these housings. I would really hate to have my Oly 5050 flooded at any time. I am going to get some insurance as well, but I would still hate it, especially if measures can be taken to lower the percentages.

Should all the orings be replaced on a regular basis (not sure what regular means here, but earlier than recommended). Perhaps keeping the orings lubricated frequently.

I wonder as well if this is a matter of getting what you pay for, as the other housings are more expensive, but I wonder if they flood as frequently?

Cheers,

Clyde

=-)

 

[conchnclyde]

Save your finger energy, as I got the answers to my questions and more (regarding Housing Maint.) by doing a search. If any others are interested, do a search for "Housing Maintenance". Alot of info on the subject. Even answered some of my insurance questions.

Sounds as if it does not matter whether you buy a "$200" or "$600" housing, sooner or later a flood is going to happen. This translates into one thing, if you are going underwater with camera, buy some insurance.

The insurance on the camera is about the same as my "92" Ford F150 per year (less than $150). However, if you want some protection and your desire is to shoot U/W, it becomes a necessity.

Safe Diving & Dry Shooting!

Clyde=-)

 

[Gilligan]

Aloha Mike,
I, and others I am sure, would appreciate your sharing your maintenance program as regards your housing. It would be a learning tool more than anything else. I assure you it is not to criticize you. I have been using the PT-010 for over a year about three times a week. My zoom control spring broke this week and a replacement is supposed to be available at the end of this month. I have already taken the zoom/shutter control assembly apart, cleaned and greased the O ring and put it back w/o the spring for now. I am soon to remove all the back panel plunger O rings and clean or replace them. I have some info/photos on my website for dismantling the shutter/zoom controls and will post more info as I take more of this housing apart. Thanks in advance.
:shades:

 

[Dee]

One of the truest things I've learned while taking cameras underwater is...it isn't IF something is going to flood, it's WHEN! A very high percentage of floods, I'd say 85-90% are caused by user error, not equipment failure. The best time to do camera maintainence is when you're relaxed, calm and can pay attention tot what you are doing. I generally do this the night before diving. If I'm rushed and have to hurry to prep my camera before a dive, I leave the camera behind. To me, it's just not worth the chance.

Here's what I do....

1) On a table, lay out an old flour cloth (tight weave, no lint) or an old T-shirt to work on.
2) Set out supplies....O-ring grease*, O-ring pick, micro cloth, zip-lock bags, pieces of old T-shirt.
3) Open housing and using pick, remove o-ring from groove. Gently pull o-ring through fingers, feeling for grit, flat/bubble spots, cracks, etc. If none of these things are found, set o-ring aside on zip-lock bag. If any of these things are found, gently wash o-ring in warm soapy water, dry on old t-shirt and grease.
4) Fold old T-shirt piece several times and using thick corner of fold, run it through and around the o-ring channel to remove anything there, especially old grease. Inspect the flat surface of both the door and the housing, looking for sand, hair fibers, etc. Remove any if found.
5) Once o-ring channel is clean, and o-ring is inspected and found to be clean and/or has been washed, re-grease o-ring. Use a spot of grease about the size of a match head. Too much grease will act like a magnet to sand, dirt and fibers, too little doesn't provide enough of a seal. So make sure the o-ring is covered enough to make it shiny and slightly tacky to the touch but the grease should not be visible.

If I am boat diving or shore diving where I don't have to go through silt, like a shore dive with a surg or a muddy exit in a local lake, I'll open the housing and inspect the o-ring after the second dive. Never on a boat, but I'll go to my room during the SI. This is when I need to change batteries in the camera so if I have to open the housing for that, it's a good time to check everything. I'll look to make sure there's not any 'stuff' sticking to the o-ring and that the flat surfaces are clean. If they aren't, the o-ring gets removed, cleaned, etc. just like the night before. I usually keep a second o-ring already greased in a ziplock bag for thopse times I don't have the time to or opportunity to clean one in safety or properly.

Someone mentioned removing and cleaning the o-ring after each dive. I don't feel this is necessary and only contributes to stretching the o-ring. Also every time that o-ring seal is broken, for whatever reason, you take a chance on a flood...you've just had another opportunity for a hair, lint fiber from your clothes, or sand blowing in the air to get on that o-ring and cause a flood the next dive.

*Manufacturers Grease - Others have mentioned using regular silicone grease on their o-rings. I've always stuck to the manufacturers brand of grease. The main reason is they have matched the material the o-rings are made of {and they are all different!} to the proper formulation of grease. It's not worth taking the chance of a flood just to save a few bucks. {BTW...I called and asked Olympus about the o-ring grease and was told the S&S's blue capped tubes of grease were safe to use.} One of those small yellow tubes of S&S blue capped o-ring grease lasts me for several years, so the price of that small tube is negligeable over time.

I wouldn't hesitate to replace my PT-10 with another Oly PT-XX housing.

 

[Finesse]

Wow that was thorough !!!

To add .... prior to camera removal ...Lots of fresh water or let it soak in a fresh water rinse tank on the boat/dock/dive center ....."work" all the buttons and knobs to help rinse out any salt (well that is if your diving salt water )

Keep the housing wet when on surface intervals ..... Dee has mentioned this in the past... and a very good idea. If there is no camera rinse tank on the boat ...... keep the housing "wet" under a soaked towel (even if its salt water)..... to stop the salt from crystallizing in all those nooks and crannies. I've seen water spots on lens ports that dried in the sun….

With some manufacturers you can send the housing in and they will go over it and do what’s needed to keep the housing in top shape. Kind of a yearly check up.

 

[Dee]

Finesse reminded me that I left out alot! Your maintainence includes care of your housing, not just the o-ring!

Alot of boats have camera buckets or tanks. Personally, I do not put my camera rig in these for several reasons....With other cameras in there, the movement of the water sloshing back and forth serve to make the cameras bump and rub against each other. It looks innocent enough until you notice a cracked strobe lens, a missing lever, scuff marks on expensive camera lenses, etc. The vibration from the boat has also been said to loosen small screws in the housing and camera both, although I personally haven't had that problem. Another reason is non-photographers frequently don't understand that the camera rinse tank is NOT for rinsing the soapy defog from their masks. That soapy residue is not good for any part of a camera.

One alternative to a communal rinse tank is take one of the collapsable ice coolers sized to fit your camera rig, fill it with water and voila! you have your own personal rinse tank. Obviously this isn't an option on a small boat where space is precious.

The only purpose of the rinse tank is to avoid the formation of salt crystals around sensitive buttons, gasgets, etc. Those dried crystals can slice an o-ring a cleanly as a knife will. So what to do? I keep my camera wrapped in a wet towel. It doesn't matter if it's wet with salt water, it does matter that whatever water is on it does not dry.

I also avoid the supposedly 'fresh water' rinse tanks on boat docks. The thought is a nice one but have you ever tasted that water to test the salinity? It may have started out fresh but by the end of the day it's almost as salty as the ocean is! On a trip, my camera stays wrapped in a wet towel until I return to my room where I put it in the tub with fresh water and work every button and knob. EVERY one. There's been mention late of maintaining the small o-rings around the buttons. A few small salt crystals around those teensy o-rings and we'll be calling Gilligan to get his source for new ones!

When diving at home around our local lakes in fresh water, I dry the water from my housing after every dive, paying particular attention to the lense port of the housing. I do this instead os using the ice cooler for a rinse tank because everyone usually wants to see the pictures! I don't open the housing unless I need to change batteries or memory, just view them through the housing.

 

[miked]

Finesse
Thanks for the input regarding the learning curve. Since my initial post, I have done some research on the 5050, and see the many similarities. The main differences are in button location, and in areas that I didn't get to explore with the 4040.
BTW, Park Ridge is up in NE New Jersey ("exit 172")

Gilligan,
I got your PM. I still am not sure what I'll be doing, but I'll let you know.
Regarding my "maintenance program", Finesse and Dee covered all the bases, with a few "minor detail" differences.

To all,
I may have found the cause of the flood-it seems that the front lens port ring(?)was loose-perhaps caused by boat vibrations, etc ??? it was "loose" as in not as tight as it could be, but it was not easy to turn.
I tightened it, cleaned it up,( including the o-ringaround the lense,gasket,etc.) and gave it a day long soaking in a bucket - so far it's dry inside. I realize that an "at depth" check still needs to be done.

I've also been looking at prices for 5050 and 4040(ebay, etc-not sureI'm comfortable with that approac), and am still not sure which way I'm going to go.
If the "old " housing is functional, then I could save $$ by getting a 4040, if possible.
The 5050 is more advanced, but getting it (via DEPP) would then require purchasing a new housing, tray, etc.
At this point, I'm still looking and thinking.

Thanks again to all.
Mike