3D print gopro 9 housing for deep dive

[Etmutt]

Hi all,

I've been entertaining a little project lately : to 3d print a gopro housing for deep (idealy 150m) dive.
There are a couple available on the market, but I think they price it too high. Most of the time you end up paying the same amount as the gopro.

So far I've only done the 3D files ; and I'm looking for a 3D printer nearby. Meanwhile; I put the files here in case anyone has a comment.

Once it will be printed ; still to be done :

- find some 4mm plexiglass or equivalent ; ideally with good optical properties (for the lens and the back panel).
I also need to work out how to assemble it water tigth (not to sure how to do this one yet, I'm thinking a mix of silicone and a small space planned for it so that it act like an oring of some sort)
- Built the buttons (needs spring ; 3mm orings; small washer and 3mm stell rod)
- find the main seal oring

 

[The Ruttmeister]

I'm curious to see if it works.
When you say 3D printed, what process/material?

The other option would be to mill one out of 2 or 3 pieces of Polycarbonate.

The buttons are always the biggest challenge though.

 

[dm9876]

I don't think there are any consumer grade 3d printing technologies that could create a suitable waterproof enclosure (appropriate tolerances for o-rings etc) but this space is moving quick so I'd love to be proven wrong. I think it's better to get it CNC milled out of aluminium / delrin / polycarbonate etc. There is a really good high level overview and design guide on the subject here: Nothing Gets In: Waterproof Enclosure Design 101 (and IP68) - Fictiv

Dean

 

[Etmutt]

There is a really good high level overview and design guide on the subject here: Nothing Gets In: Waterproof Enclosure Design 101 (and IP68) - Fictiv

Good link! I'm going to largely oversize the o ring and I will go for the softer material. Hopefully that will compensate for the printing short comings

 

[stiebs]

You've done a good job on the design, but I think you've got the hardest parts ahead of you.

But as @dm9876 suggested, I don't think there is any consume grade 3d printing that will work for something like this.

The o-ring lands will need to be very smooth and with tight tolerance - a 3d print will leave layer artifacts which will work against you for creating a reliable seal, especially for the push buttons. If you use something like ABS you can smooth the final surface out with acetone, but I'm not sure if you'll get a finished product that is acceptable for a reliable seal.

Especially the side button - that needs supports, so to break out the support and smooth it will require a lot of patience and detailed finishing.

How are you planning on making the button rods? You will need to machine a stainless rod with, I would suggest, two oring grooves, plus a notch for a circlip to keep the button assembly in place. If you want to use a straight rod, you will need find away to secure the orings in the housing. On your current model, it looks like you have a seat suitable for a spring, but nowhere for an oring.

Oh, and you might also want to add a mounting bracket on the bottom of the housing.

IMO, it's a great exercise to do for the challenge, but for my money it will most likely be cheaper to buy a housing - even if they do seem expensive for what they are.

 

[Etmutt]

You've done a good job on the design, but I think you've got the hardest parts ahead of you.

But as @dm9876 suggested, I don't think there is any consume grade 3d printing that will work for something like this.

The o-ring lands will need to be very smooth and with tight tolerance - a 3d print will leave layer artifacts which will work against you for creating a reliable seal, especially for the push buttons. If you use something like ABS you can smooth the final surface out with acetone, but I'm not sure if you'll get a finished product that is acceptable for a reliable seal.

Especially the side button - that needs supports, so to break out the support and smooth it will require a lot of patience and detailed finishing.

How are you planning on making the button rods? You will need to machine a stainless rod with, I would suggest, two oring grooves, plus a notch for a circlip to keep the button assembly in place. If you want to use a straight rod, you will need find away to secure the orings in the housing. On your current model, it looks like you have a seat suitable for a spring, but nowhere for an oring.

Oh, and you might also want to add a mounting bracket on the bottom of the housing.

IMO, it's a great exercise to do for the challenge, but for my money it will most likely be cheaper to buy a housing - even if they do seem expensive for what they are.

good points, I'm actually more concerned by the main seal than the button one, as I imagine it will be harder to stay within tolerances on a much bigger surface.

For the button, I intend to use straight rod. the way I see it the or ring seats on the rod and is kept in place by a washer and the spring. Is there any issue with hat kind of design ?

 

[Etmutt]

updated files (more clearance with the back panel to allow more deformation and new Oring (2.6mm one))
I hope to get it printed by next week max

 

[emoreira]

I think that no FDM 3D printed underwater case is enough watertight to withstand 150 meters pressure, this is 15 bar.
3D printed parts are porous, no mater if it's printed at 100 % infill. There are always some places where the melted plastic does not cover every space, leaving some porous. Plane surfaces are also not smoth enough to ensure a perfect seal with an o-ring.
I do print many scuba parts, but none is subject to pressures above a few cm of water column. And I always must grind surfaces where a rubber seal makes contact.
I wish good luck with your project, though I recommend you to test your UW case at maximun depth with nothing inside.

 

[The Ruttmeister]

Some of the really high strength resins from FormLabs might well stand up to the forces involved... If you have access to a Form 2/3.
And already have the resin and a tank for it. I have some clear and a tank for that, but the upfront cost of the resin and a new tank would be close to the cost of a housing.
And SLA will certainly give you a smooth enough finish for o-rings.

Not sure how well the SLA resins will stand up long term though. They get brittle with UV, don't know about prolonged salt water.

And I'd absolutely beef up most of the features in the model, that looks like a normal supersuit, the deep cases are all much thicker material. Plus they are normally aluminium.

I had been thinking about making a silly exhaust diffuser for my double-hose... this might be an easier test for the resin.

 

[Etmutt]

Some of the really high strength resins from FormLabs might well stand up to the forces involved... If you have access to a Form 2/3.
And already have the resin and a tank for it. I have some clear and a tank for that, but the upfront cost of the resin and a new tank would be close to the cost of a housing.
And SLA will certainly give you a smooth enough finish for o-rings.

Not sure how well the SLA resins will stand up long term though. They get brittle with UV, don't know about prolonged salt water.

And I'd absolutely beef up most of the features in the model, that looks like a normal supersuit, the deep cases are all much thicker material. Plus they are normally aluminium

I'm thinking of nylon print as it seems to have both he strength and the precision needed. Abs would be fine also.

My initial plan to get the model printed didn't turn out , so now I'm getting in touch with a Chinese printing company. Look like I should be able to get it for around 40euro with shipment.

For the strength, the walls are all at least 5mm thick, and about 8mm at the corners, I think it shows od be fine considering the original gopro case is less than 2mm thick and withstand 7bars.in any case I will test it empty the 1st time