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Most mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras have options to mount wet lenses over a zoom or prime. M43 system has 14-42mm, Sony APS-C has 16-50mm, Sony FF has 28-60mm, Fuji X has 15-45mm, Nikon Z has 16-50mm on crop and I think 24-50mm on FF, etc.

Plenty of people have reported issues with YS-D2J as well - they were better than the original YS-D2s, but not by much. That said, the problem was significantly exacerbated by Sea & Sea's approach to warranty support, something that Backscatter has a much better reputation in, at least for...

In theory, yeah, but it's a LOT of power to stuff into a very small package. By the numbers, they're dumping something like 350 W⋅s into each max-power flash, which is way more than any underwater strobe that came before - Inon Z-330 is something like 107 W⋅s from what I know; Seacams, OneUWs...

If I were in the market for new strobes right now, HF-1 would be my top choice. My one big question mark point about them is how well they're going to stand up to the massive amounts of heat they will put out, given the stated levels of power, but hopefully Backscatter has it covered. Given that...

I wrote to XTAR, they offered to sell me a replacement at 50% off. This coincided with a sale on Aliexpress (where I originally bought my light), so I ended up paying $37.

I do it all the time, haven't had any issues yet, although my housing (SeaFrogs) holds the camera body by multiple points of contact all around it, rather than a mounting plate on the tripod socket. The pressure difference thing doesn't really matter; it's an artifact of the time when vacuum...

Only thing that comes to mind is a flip adapter that clamps onto the outside of the port, instead of threading into it - there are some out there, targeting specific port models, example. Measure the outside diameter of your port and you might find one that fits, although as you can see, they...

It's always been supported, but whereas many housings (including SeaFrogs' new metal ones) extend it with a thumb lever, so that you can hold the housing by tray handle, press the shutter lever with your index or middle finger and AF-ON with your thumb, this housing keeps it as a regular button...

If I was in the market for a phone housing, I'd go with DiveVolk. No software issues or extra batteries to worry about, full access to phone features.

Start with the strobes. They're the biggest single improvement to underwater image quality that you can get, and you can carry them over to whatever new camera that you upgrade to eventually.

Since it has room for an additional battery + multiple cable connectors inside, that is to be expected.

Yeah, but I would wager that putting one in aperture priority and pointing it at the sun will result in a pretty fast shutter speed.

Typical use case is shooting against the sun, so you'd have a sunball in the frame. Controlling the sunball typically involves fast shutter speeds.

The OP has referenced a TG-5 - this is a leaf shutter camera, which does not suffer from the limitations of focal plane shutters, and can sync at any speed without HSS. The OP could use, say, a YS-D3 Duo in RC TTL mode (if their budget would stretch that far, which, to be fair, is a mighty...

You have to be very very careful with the terms here. What you're referring to here is specifically called High Speed Sync, or HSS, at it is used to sync strobes with cameras above their normal strobe sync speed. Most (but not all) interchangeable lens cameras use what is called a focal plane...

Any strobe can sync at any speed; the sync speed limitations are on the camera side. That said, at 1/2000s, most of the strobe's power will be cut off by the camera shutter, as typical strobes need at least 2-3ms for a full dump.

Just shoot RAW. You can edit (white balance, color correction, exposure correction, sharpening, etc) one picture from a dive, and apply its settings to a bunch of other photos taken under similar circumstances, up to and including multiple dives at a time. Working with Capture One Express (no...

FWIW Although, looking at the photos of the Isotta TG-6 housing, the complex shape of the rear panel might make it more challenging.

That's easy enough to DIY; I have printed a set of rails and glued them onto my SeaFrogs housing to hold a Nauticam LCD magnifier hood.

Weefine/Kraken also has a metal housing for TG-5/6/7, somewhat less expensive than Nauticam. No personal experience, but it has some interesting features, such as an internal 18650 battery to extend the camera's battery life, and an M16 port that allows you to connect an external monitor by HDMI.