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There is definitively no need to hire a dive guide to dive at Silfra. You just need a permit from the National Park. It can be booked easily via internet and costs about 1.000 ISK (7,50 €) per day. The only problem is may be to get a parking space. The place is well attended by commercial...

Silfra on Iceland is not a quiet spot anymore. But Silfra is still one of the top 10 dive spots of the world. My recommendation: take a beer with you on the dive - it will be very cold afterwards.