I get that.
So you take Fundamentals in the full tech gear. And you do great to the rec standards. But almost, but not quite, to the tech standards. What is the class outcome?
tech provisional? And if not converted in 6 months nothing?
But is rec pass with tech provisional an outcome?
"In tech gear you did great at the rec standards, but you need a little more practice for the tech cert. So...."
(Either Rec cert or Tech provisional.)
Door # 1: Hold out, practice, let's meet cross country in a few months.
Door # 2: Take home...
The standards reads as if for any training you can get (1.5.2):
- provisional rating
And under Fundamentals, it lists a rec (18.104.22.168 (A)) and a tech (22.214.171.124 (B)) rating. Which suggests:
- rec: fail...
My apologies, my understanding was derived from SB and GUE public data and was: fail < rec < provisional < tech. With: rec always being able to upgrade, and provisional having a 6 mo window to reevaluate for tech.
Was there a provisional tech pass that I was confused with?
The rec pass seems preferable for a new diver as it doesn't come with a 6-month time limit to possibly upgrade to tech, like the provisional tech does. Plus you'll be more relaxed and learn more if you're not worried about tech, and more likely to do the class in the gear that you're comfortable...
Best is to play around in the pool for a really detailed and slow look at your weight distribution, and posture.
If you need to shift more lower:
- Heavier fins are likely the most impactful.
- You can put lead on the crotch strap. Sidemount divers often have a rear butt plate and may add a...
Excepts from slides I created while teaching a class in bouyancy and trim:
You as a skin diver with just fins, and weight vest and belt:
Arms and legs can move in and out giving a range of placement of their negative ballast (or positive ballast).
Lungs are variable volume and thus variable...
What I am doing is listening to what the student has reported. Not just saying we always start with steel.
Yes. And it is all simple physics.
- head tilt matters, some.
- leg and arm position matters and provides dynamic adjustment, assuming they are not neutral...
- Tank selection...
They are head heavy with AL plate and all their lead in hip pockets. So switching to a steel plate will move some of their adjustable ballast higher not lower. Making things worse.
The center of mass of that plate (and the cam bands) is higher than the center of mass of the lead on their hips...
It's really just the same physics as on a grade-school playground see-saw. Just some bits are more constrained in where they can go.
Pushing super heavy/negative fins is more work, but your feet being a bit negative means you can dynamically adjust your weight distribution by pulling them in a...
- A weight belt with six to eight pounds of that lead might help by putting that much a bit further down.
- Negative fins would help, even simulating them at first with a one pound weight strapped to each of them.
- The HP80 is not helping as its negative buoyancy is a bit higher up due to...
The watch thread above really liked the Casio MDV106 for $50 to $70 as a basic sturdy actual dive watch.
And here is Aqua Lung's analog depth gauge for $90
Aqualung Depth Gauge
This way you wind up with a useful watch and a perfectly fine SPG.
That looks like $260. Understand you are in Australia, so these sources will not help much, but:
A good pressure gauge here costs only $50.
DGX Thin SPG, Naked.
The standard gauge about every sidemount diver is using.
And here is a dive computer for $230.
I do not know much about it, but...
Is your argument that lack of a computer never prevents any dive as people can just use their own boat?
That is what I get from your several posts here.
So lack of a few hundred dollar tool can be solved by having a few tens of thousand dollar tool? Or am I missing something in your argument?
If the bottom of the lake is at 20', you do not need computer, depth gauge, or timer. Well, except to ensure you ascend slowly....
If you need to know the depth and time, to be sure you did not get one or more of them wrong..., then a cheap computer may not be much more expensive and does more...