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I am not talking about depth gauge accuracy. I depth gauge that is calibrated for fresh water reads ffw, while a depth gauge that is calibrated for salt water reads fsw regardless of the medium you are diving in. You would not calculate an MOD for fresh water when your depth gauge is...

Be careful. This assumes that your depth gauge is reading ffw. A depth gauge that reads fsw will read fsw in salt or fresh water.

PO2 is based on the absolute pressure. Here are the tiny errors that can occur and their result: You didn't zero your depth gauge for the altitude, and it reads from see level: You read fsw from 1 atm, so the results are spot on for PO2. Your computer switched to ffw. The computer reads...

Not a scuba Snope but.. My sister got nitrogen in her tires, and thought they would explode if she put air in them after that.

I saw a decent size seahorse once on my own. The dive master told me he had only seen 5 in ten years of diving in the area. The viz was really crappy that day, and said that was the best time to see seahorses because you aren't busy looking ahead for the next thing.

This is exactly why it is important to know when to call a dive. I had an incident once where I had some great anxiety of unknown source. I couldn't slow my breathing. I decided that I would rather abort the dive then and there when I was still in control of myself, rather than wait for...

Must remember to look at the thread date.

If the viz is so bad that you can't keep contact with your buddy without the buddy line, the viz is too bad to see anything worth seeing anyway. Some dives really just aren't worth continuing.

I would buy the MK17 over the MK25. It is cheaper and, as it is a sealed regulator, the dive-to-dive maintenance is much easier. You have to give the MK25 good soak to get all the salt and crap out of the ambient chamber. For a MK17, a rinse will do. The annual service is more difficult on...

On a single air source for two people with no redundancy?

I have a 3 inch knife. My biggest criteria for a dive knife is that it be in easy reach if and when I need it which I hope I never do.

How about... I saw an awesome shark on my first dive, and some really cool seahorses on my second. Who cares how deep the dives were?

I don't "support" my LDS, or subscribe to any of the propaganda he tries to feed me. However, he has really good prices (usually as good as or better than leisure pro) on big ticket items, so I buy from him often.

The local dive charter operator where I live uses facebook exclusively to post when the dives are going to be. So...No facebook, no diving.

If you look at the problem closely, it becomes obvious that there is a problem with trim shift. If the tank extends past the bottom of the BCD, and the air in the BCD is used to compensate the air in the entire length of the tank, your center of mass will start out back, and work its way...

PPO2 of 1.4, when diving within the time limits has a virtually zero risk of CNS toxicity. If you dive to 1.6, you have small, non-zero risk. However, if you go into CNS toxicity while submerged, you die. Your chances of being rescued even by the most proficient rescue diver are extremely...

Of course, you need to trim for planned depth. The more air required in your BCD, the higher up the weight will need to be on your body.

My wife had the exact same issue. The problem is that you are trying to clear your mask all in one go. Here is the fix: First, learn to breath through your regulator comfortably without a mask. Then, replace your mask, while gently blowing a little air out your nose to prevent the water...

I think the more accurate phrase would be "You should not use 235 bar regulators on cylinders filled to 300 bar". The cylinder design pressure is irrelevant.

Out of curiosity, were you allowed to use fins. This would be a relatively easy skill for someone like me who sinks like a rock, but absolutely impossible for my wife who, without fins, cannot reach the bottom of a 12 ft pool.