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My mother was receiving hyperbaric oxygen treatment for a severe sinus fungal infection and was run at 2.2Ata. (off topic, she dove 60 times last year in the chamber, more than me in the water)

I am not really a sharer, simply because when you dive on a wreck both parties involved are looking at the wreck.

My gas planning is done with a simple spreadsheet, assuming I know what the dives are in advance. Here is the spreadsheet, uploaded to google docs. Link I should mention this sheet is almost entirely in metric (except for a psi pressure readout as my pressure gauge is american).

I have never dove in that area, but tobermorry is closer to me, so I am not complaining.

There is really no way past a certain depth (depends on your tolerance). I can dive all the wrecks in toby with my 7mm farmer john + 3 finger mitts, but only for a little while. At 34m I can last 25 minutes before getting really cold. At 40m that is even shorter. If you want to stay warm you...

I dive a Mk.17 / A700, it has served me well on 40+ cold water dives, with 2 under the ice. I have never had a free flow that was not my fault (breathing into the reg above the ice once). I have heard posidins are the best, but for price and service I am sticking to my Mk.17 / A700. From a...

Out of curiosity, where are you diving?

Being relaxed before an exam is much better than being stressed. You should study like usual and let the diving decompress.

If you can find one, look for a used camera. I could in no way afford even the most basic decent UW camera, but my connection to the local dive community allowed me to get a used cannon elph with housing for $200 from $650 new. Also consider getting a waterproof camera in a depth proof housing...

Go with the 19 for sure. As the saying goes: 13 if you are shallow, 19 if you are deep, 30 if you want your (emergency) deco, and 40 if you want to finish the dive (just to clarify, finishing the dive with a 40 is a bad idea in most circumstances, I am saying the 40 is too much tank for a rec...

Well, you can ditch the console depth gauge no problem, but you should plan for some redundancy. Think about getting a wrist mounted depth gauge or bottom timer.

I am using a plastic coated hockey bag from Canadian tire, generic brand. After 10 years or hockey use and 50 dives worth of dive use it is no worse for wear. The only "dive bag" I use is my reg bag.

In Scuba we only (mostly) use metal tanks. The only people who use carbon fibre or fiberglass tanks are firefighters using SCBA. That is not to say a SCBA tank could not be adapted for SCUBA, but the tanks have a very limited lifespan compared to steel or aluminum tanks. You could possible use...

An Apeks WTX Harness with a SS back plate, SS STA, and Hog 32lb wing.

I have a 6' yellow one, it can orally inflate or be inflated from the bottom via a single way valve with a second stage. I have yet to find a good way to store and rig the thing, so the suggestions here are good. Here is a picture someone took which clearly shows my current "system". My trim...

For my AOW we went to 36m on a wreck in lake Erie (twice, the Boland). That is deeper than most are taken, but I feel better having done a deeper dive in terms of learning than I would have doing a shallower dive. I was diving with 28%, so there was a little more time for my instructor and I to...

Fine, Shadow boxes would look alright if the object was relatively flat allowing for an attractive shadow. A more three dimensional object would be (in my opinion) better displayed on a top lit shelf, possible on a stand. Here:

In general it is very bad form to remove anything from a wreck. If every diver who visits a wreck takes something then eventually there will be no interesting little bits left. I could maybe see taking a rock as okay, but if that rock were part of the ships ballast you would again be stripping...

Yes, and?

Waterproof to 10m, wow, that is useful. If there is a caseing for it the camera might be functional for a diver..