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they are pressed from a blank to an open cylinder shape and then the shoulder and neck portion is made by hot spinning process and further machining. I assume the variations could be mainly due to that neck portion process and the trimming stage and the original blanks would be very constant...

I'm a little sceptic how that retainer thingy would work when combined with a long hose setup. the thing with silicone necklaces may be that they are just too long to hold the octo comfortably without risking getting it entangled a bit more easily. I have managed to lose the octo multiple...

yes some people seem to rig it in a way that it cannot be ripped off unless cutting with a knife. I personally think it would be better that way... If in ooa situation would be better if at least someone gets air. I have also had bad experiences with rip off octos so will tie it permanently to...

I have seen numerous people use the normal XTX50 regulators as both primary and octo on a dir setup. should not matter unless the adjustment knob bothers you in some way. the yellow colour is not needed for a bungeed octo by the agencies as far as I have understood, the yellow is mainly for...

I don't know how much off they generally should be but I have a feeling none of my tank is exactly the weight stamped on the tank neck. I even have an old 70's tank which says 12.4kg on the neck and the real weight without boot and valve seems to be around 14kg. So I generally don't believe...

steel tanks can be bought online or from LDS pretty much everywhere in Europe. One of the common online shops people use is Deepstop in Germany, they also sell hot galvanized tanks Scubatanks & Acc - Deepstop GmbH . it is most common for steel tanks to have the normal thin galvanization and then...

back to the original topic, I am currently reading the Mark Powell book (Technical diving -An Introduction) and he clearly refers 80cf alu tanks as "12L" multiple times. It has to have something to do with the divers used to dive 12L steel stages in the past and transferred much later to the...

I originally bought the 5.5mm wetsuit for snorkeling and very basic freediving practicing. Scuba diving came later so I just transferred the suit to that. the 10mm wet hood I also bought before scuba just for snorkeling and transferred it to scuba use later. I did not see much point with the...

one would want to use stages or deco bottles on both sides if using steel tank stages which may be very negatively buoyant and thus would make swimming difficult if all would be clipped on the left. it is a practical solution. you can spot that in for example in the Mark Powell book. I guess it...

depends on the suit material and undergarments. for me the difference is couple of kilos compared to my 5.5mm wetsuit but not much more than that. depends on how much air you keep in the suit and so on. wetsuits have the advantage of being completely usable even if damaged. A leaking drysuit...

my outlet drysuit cost a little over double the price of a new 7mm wetsuit. the only imperfection it had was that it was a demo suit with a tiny 1mm hole on it which was repaired in the factory before they sold it to me. otherwise it was perfect and unused. if budget is a consideration you can...

yep but water bodies tend to have thermoclines and the water may be very cold below that even in the summer. your surface water may be anything but just couple of meters down below the thermocline it can be 10°C or lower, even 4°C if going deeper. If wanting to only stay in warm surface waters...

yep a 3 or 5mm would be best for vacation diving. the 5mm could also be used for summer activity locally if not going deeper than the warm surface water. 5mm suit is great for snorkeling here so it is useful in other ways even if not very warm for scuba diving. it may be possible to get a...

Here one can usually choose if doing OWD in wetsuit or drysuit. drysuit may be some extra pool training so the ow course could be slightly longer. Wetsuit divers here are mostly those who intend to dive only on vacations in tropics and will only do a practice dive or two locally per year...

just carry large size bolt cutters in your pocket, should get the job done easily :rofl3:

by my limited experience, tight bungee damages the hose surface pretty easily. though its not gonna explode due that... caveline slipping on normal rubber hoses?

if one is so concerned about attaching boltsnaps directly to the hoses maybe one could just put some inner tire rubber piece around the hose before attaching the snap with the caveline? that would do exactly the same thing than that Hose Hook but would be easier and cheaper and look much nicer...

how are you gonna cut that loose with a "DIR knife" if it gets entangled? one has to carry a proper screwdriver in the thigh pocket all the time? how long its gonna take compared to cutting a caveline knot? :popcorn: caveline is a much better method to tie bolt snaps to hoses.... that "hose...

on Scubaboard I only see scam ads. Especially those "you are the 1 000 000 visitor and have won 1000€, click here" and "learn to speak fluent English in 2 hours while you sleep, click here" etc.

if you want to do cave sidemount I have understood that it comes much later in GUE path than which is possible with other agencies. I have understood that it is not possible to mix and match courses with GUE (though don't know if it's possible to for example mix and match TDI and IANTD cave...