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Quattro's are actually fairly popular with tech divers. You find them a lot in the MX caves. I would expect all the "tech" kicks to be fine in them as long as your doing it correctly.

A needle valve is always proper set. Doesn't matter if your kicking into current or riding the DPV. Do you adjust you CMF IP for every dive? Edit: typo

"Task, buoyancy, Team" Repeat this in your head. With each word, that's where you focus should be. Task, put your hand on the bolt snap preparing to pick up the tank. Buoyancy, add a puff to the wing. How does it feel? Team, where is my teammate, do they need assistance? Etc... etc... etc...

SW fanboy here, I think the problem with the tower isn't necessarily quality, but human factors. I found it was quite easy to only half attach the the bayonets and they would still pass the positive and negative tests. I never dove one like that, but I could see it coming lose. I'm running LM...

Practice, practice, and practice. Sometimes sh!t just happens though.

I'm going to try to be constructive. There are a lot of places in the US that don't have good instructors available. Find a location with a base of "hungry" divers that don't have many other options.

Cut the cord as short as possible. I also have my cord tied to the top side of the flange so it's always there on top.

I agree with @Mobulai , looks like the left tank is floaty, not the right. Hard to tell in the video, but I would start with the BCD inflator/deflator his pushing the tank around.

LP108s with 10/70 make AL80s with nitrox feel neutral.

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. Take your time. Grab the tank (don't pick it up) adjust buoyancy, then test the weight to see if you can stay neutral before trying to clip it on. Reverse the process to drop it. Set it down, but hold on until you dump your wing, then test buoyancy.

I use a stealth tech with custom skeleton harness. I use the same setup for all tanks. 8mm bungie, sliding Ds, and Drop Ds. For steel (Faber LP85,LP108) the bolt snap is clocked to the valve post. With nitrox they go on the drop D, with TRIMIX they go on sliding Ds. For AL80s I clock it at...

100% agree, those tanks need to come up and toward the knees several CM. Rais the tank bands, shorten the bungees, shorten the lower leash/move the drop Ds inboard.

If I'm doing "serious" dives I'm in a dry suit and don't need a redundant wing. For less "serious" dives, call it warm open water, AL 80s, no stages, couple 40s for deco. I may be in a wetsuit with my razor, witch has very simple and streamlined redundancy. I would call "advanced solo cave...

Just to make sure it clear to @nedrud , to dive a rebreather you need all your OC gear and the rebreather. You are not traveling lighter when diving CC.

Does the depth reading appear to be stable? My Shearwaters sensors are off by a few MB. Combined with the Nerd being higher in the water column, I've seen them as much as 5 minutes off, but I wouldn't describe it as "all over the place".

I sent you a DM.

@LFMarm I witnessed a disaster a few weeks ago, that I personally believe was rooted in poor DPV skills. You want to learn from a good cave instructor and you want to take the class on the loop. In my opinion, you won't go wrong going to Edd or his instructors. James Darker is also good if...

I learned with two different instructors out of High Springs and I found my training completely compatible with friends that learned from Edd after minimal discussion. It's not a big deal.

This is completely normal among my Shearwaters, and I know they are all running the same code. Always follow the most conservative one.

I have also rolled off the O2 bottle on my sidewinder, but I don't think I had it open very far.