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I have a mix of XTX40 and XTX50 regs. Personally I use the XTX40 for my necklace (since that's detuned basically all the time), and I use the XTX50s on my long hose and deco reg. Reason being that I expect to be breathing off those regs for the entire dive, but I want to be able to detune...

I don't cave dive, just open-water tech in the chilly PNW. I have a canister light and a bunch of cordless lights. I generally prefer the cordless light, especially when there's a lot going on (deco bottles, scooter) for the cord to keep catching on, or if I anticipate needing to clip the light...

I think 'Deco for Divers' is a great book to give an overview of decompression theory, and set me up well for the classroom portions of Fundies. Even if the material is not a 1:1 match with the deco 'philosophy' of GUE, it's an excellent overview of the history, the different schools of thought...

I'm a big proponent of sealed diaphragm regs for maximum longevity, especially if you're diving in saltwater, and especially if there is sand/muck involved. Mk17/19 for Scubapro; if you're buying used, my entire reg fleet is used Apeks regs, and they all take the same (readily available) service...

The idea here is basically to do the first half of what you describe - exterior fresh-water rinse, rinse/disinfect the counterlungs and loop on the stand, pull the scrubber and dry/repack it, and add the 'water scrubber' to the head and dry everything else in place. Flipping the unit (in the GUE...

That’s pretty much what I’m thinking, yep. I can’t think of a ton of reasons it won’t work, and it would let me rinse and then dry the rebreather entirely on the stand. Also, frankly, I think it’s hilarious to turn it from a CO2 scrubber into a water vapor scrubber.

But what's the fun in that?!

In my endless quest for optimization, I'm thinking about how I can dry the loop of my JJ most efficiently/effectively (preferably without breaking down the entire unit). I've seen a few options for loop drying that use a fan pointed at either the head or straight into a counterlung, but now I'm...

This is an incredible resource. Am I to understand that all the O-rings, with the exception of those marked as Viton, are Buna-N D75? Is the 75 just for availability, or is there some incredibly subtle difference vs D70 o-rings? (My motivation - given current exchange rates, trying to source...

My DIY tips are: - Crab pot floats, they tend to be about 1lb of buoyancy, foam doesn’t collapse at depth, very cheap ($2 per float at my local marine store) - If you want to get fancy, a 3D printer and ASA Aero foam. I’ve successfully made float mounts for DPV accessories and cameras for...

FWIW, I just did my CCR-F course. Started with DS4s, but the hose routing (especially with the drysuit off the left post - not a long-term problem, hopefully) wasn’t great. I switched to my FSR regs with the 5th port and the routing is much better. I imagine the DST would also be ideal, but I...

Is that 18lbs of weight in addition to a steel backplate and a steel tank, for a 2-3mm wetsuit? To me, that sounds like quite a lot - about what I use diving a drysuit with fairly thick undergarments. To your point about trim, where on your rig is the weight?

There aren't really rec or tec passes any more. You do Basic Fundamentals or Technical Fundamentals (or fundies-lite, Performance Diver). For a newer diver, Basic Fundamentals looks like the course you're probably after.

I’ve had some luck printing scooter accessories (bottom timer/compass mounts) in ASA Aero, which has a density around 0.6g/cm3. It’s light enough that my 180g bottom timer can be neutral when placed in its 3d printed mount. I also have some designs for Goodman handles that combine a 3D printed...

No, he asked for one that charges without opening. Nanight X1 is a really good middle ground (I think): charges with an external connection, but you always have the option to easily replace the battery (any button-top 21700).

Nanight X1. I have one; it's very much (to me) like a smaller, better version of the Sola 2500 S/F, but with a user-replaceable battery (21700) and a tighter spot.

I can’t talk to the ‘simplest’ gloves, but I use the 720s (or 721) with the Smart system and they’re not bad to install. Easier than on the Kubi/Rolock systems for sure.

there's no actual confirmation of this, but I don't see how they get to the power/runtime numbers in this scooter or the new Goldfinders without using a brushless motor.

This is super interesting! I'd be very curious about one of these, even in a pure communication form. Don't really need the rest.

Pricing appears to be around $3500 USD for the Quantum, probably $2500 for the Nemo (maybe a little more once imported). Full spec sheet: