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In case you need 2nd stage info, please see attached. -Z

I don't understand the comments stating the diver should "eat it" or should check their insurance to see if it covers a the loss/refund. The operator should either have insurance or allocate funds for these kind of contingencies. Good customer service would never have the customer asking for a...

See attached. Enjoy! -Z

No doubt, all the companies I mentioned had great designs which often turned into great products. But none of the owners that I mentioned could handle criticism without some kind of meltdown and could be found to crap on their customers when inquiring about issues with the product. While you...

Seems kind of sh!ty that you are aware of what is causing the problem with your product (when it occurs), and have called it out as a manufacturing process issue...TWICE. In the post above, you mention it is related to moisture control and heat treatment, and earlier in the discussion you...

Congrats on finding such a clean specimen given the age of the components in your setup. Now, Dive the crap out of it and have fun! Cheers, -Z

If you are using your Ultimas with a drysuit that has the PU ring from the Si-Tech QCS oval system installed, then you should be able to swap over to the Rolock 90 without any issue. -Z

Looks like a Mares MR12S with DIN connection, and Cold Water Dry kit installed. Service kit part # should be 46201828 per the tech bulletin attached to post #255 above in this discussion thread. -Z

Get a boot/glove dryer and stick one side through the opening of the wing after removing the OPV. This will circulate mildly warm air through the wing without doing any damage. I have the one in the 4th picture...its dual voltage and breaks down to be portable, it is the Hotronics Snapdry...I...

Well, barring you being a little bit more helpful and posting a picture of your actual 2nd stage...I'll peer into my crystal ball and provide what I see:wink:: First up is a US Divers/Aqualung 2nd stage with a body and faceplate made from composite/plastic material marked with the model name...

It looks to be an Aqualung Aquarius made between 1994-1997: -Z

I have a mouldable mouth piece on my primary second stage and a comfobite on my octo. If you go with mouldable, just do yourself a favor and avoid "clear" as a color option....if you don't see the gunk, its not there....unfortunately, the cleare ones make you work a lot harder at lying to...

Even at $350 that is a pretty good deal. Could you please DM me the name of the shop so I can look into this further? -Z

Do they have any more? -Z

My only question really is whether it is a Helix octo or is it the ABS octo? If it is the Helix octo it is a very good deal. If it is the ABS octo, I would recommend asking if they would be able to substitute the Helix octo for a nominal fee. -Z

It would be helpful if you could expand on "...and do not bother with IP" -Z

Neptune Divers (801-466-9630) and Dive Addicts (801-572-5111) are both listed as Aqualing dealers in the Salt Lake City area. Call them and ask if they can order you part # VS900006 -Z

Yes, I was refering to the style similar to that used in the Conshelf. With regards to the cone style poppet, I didn't think the market chose that style. Perhaps I worded it poorly. I was just recognizing that there are some brands that have the cone style poppet, and those brands seem to be...

Thanks....I guessed that was the case, but was not sure. Interesting that 1st stages oriented towards tech divers typically have the flat-topped conical seat head poppet, where as recreation oriented 1st stages seem to trend towards the "T" style poppet....why is that? -Z

Indeed. Your point about Dacor is spot on. Although I did not specify, my post was primarily refering to Aqualung's 1st stages. In my mind, the issue with Dacor not having the aftermarket support after Mares killed off the brand was that they were well over engineered and more complex than they...