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You need a new dive shop, those parts are still available.....and are the same ones used in most of their other regs give or take a couple orings. Looking at the 2014 parts catalog (latest I have) all of the service parts used in that reg are the same ones used in all of their top end second...

Guess it depends on what you are calling vintage. If you are talking about a 80's Mk-5 or Conshelf, that is really not vintage and no different than modern gear...it really is modern gear just a few years old. Now if you are talking about double hose regs then you may have some issues but a...

While most of the time 11's and 12's will work fine, if you are having issues with a port sealing, sometimes using the 900 series will fix the issue.

About 2 weeks ago, the temp above the thermocline was mid 70's (74-77) can a bit chilly below it. The TC was about 19 ft. Vis was in the 20-25 ft range, not bad for this time of year. When are you come up, I may be there, always nice to meet SB members.

Where did you get a shelf life of 5 yrs for nitrile? All the searches I have done say 15 yrs, plenty long enough for scuba duty. I have never understood the big deal with viton orings. Sure they have a longer life span when subjected to higher O2 levels but unless you are really stretching the...

Most vintage divers tend to consider anything after the double hose era to be modern, for all intents and purposes that ended in 1970. Lets face it, there is really nothing different about a 1970 single hose reg and a 2022 one....other than the 70's is likely made of better materials.

IMO, The SPG spool is the one exception to the lightly lubed rule. Those spools are bad to corrode in place due to water getting in and it really can't be rinsed out. Once corroded in, you usually damage the hose and/or SPG trying to get it out. I put a good bit of lube in the area between the...

Welcome to the board from Raleigh. We have a couple nice quarries here as well.

The tool is nice to have but you reach in with a pair of needle nose pliers and gently hold the poppet.

no need for them to be 90, 70 would do fine since they really don't hold back any pressure.

I don't have anything annotated so no help there but remember the Nemrods are metric so I would assume the orings are as well.

Not sure I deserve the comments but I do stand by my previous post. The main reason to balance a second stage is to maintain a constant cracking pressure as IP varies with an additional benefit of usually having a lighter spring. As long as the first stage keeps IP within a reasonable range...

Not a good idea. First off, it's an old piece of equipment, the odds of having someone familiar with it is slim so it's likely they will either tell you to trash it or worse, damage it. Being a non-magnetic, it has a lot more value (collector) than a standard manifold so damaging it is a...

I routinely dive that way today -DH reg, tank and harness, it's a much more enjoyable way to dive. I will admit I do usually dive with a computer but it's mainly to keep up with depth and time, not really as a computer. It forces you to get your weighting dead on and to get very good control...

A little aside on the subject, the yoke screw is down on the breaker bar for a reason. Most of the time, the area that the socket has to engage is very narrow . Because of this, there is little surface area for the socket to engage and it is very easy for the socket to rotate up, damaging the...

I stopped making tools a while back. I highly recommend NOT trying to make them out of anything other than a hard steel. The problem with anything else is the circlip WILL shave off parts of the tool and deposit them INTO the reg. Bits of loose stuff in the reg is not good. I experimented...

I haven't seen anyone mention this, the orings that are subject to high pressure need to be 85-90 durometer, not the more common 70, basically all of the one in the main body. If you use 70, they are more likely to extrude (blow out) and can cause IP issues.

Sad to hear. I had the pleasure and honor of meeting her a number of years ago at a vintage diving event.

Disassemble it as much as possible then soak is a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water. Use a ultrasonic cleaner if you have one. Rinse with clean water after the vinegar bath. Keep an eye on it as it soaks, it does not take too long and it can eventually remove chrome.

This email address explains a lot. I got several DM's asking about equipment "I" had for sale, none of which I have. I have nothing to do with this.