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tbone, Actually a 3/4" box end wrench will do just fine for the yoke, and 6mm hex wrench for the DIN--unless, of course, one is into torque settings. Allowing 5 minutes will give you time for coffee.

Smokey. I don't think that little cannon on Windsock is the one they are talking about. It is a cute little sucker. but since it lies in the sand, storms sometimes cover it. Usually, when it is buried, there is a small portion exposed. I have dug away the sand at least twice. I believe that the...

I, too, am definitely not a fan of the Oceanic DVT, for the reason stated, and because some are very noisy as well. Currently we have 4 Titan LX's. 3 old style and 1 with the new style ACD first stage. I am used to checking the inlet filter quite often for dirt, saltwater discoloration, etc...

I NEVER dive without a compass. I prefer a wrist mounted compass and give it a quick check quite often just to make sure I am headed in the direction I intend. And, I make sure that it is never left behind by looping it over my octo between dives.

As Fishpie said, it is some of the yellow octos that have the greatest problem with cracks. Of course, a ham-handed tech (or tech wannabe) can break anything.

Dazzy, Any of the BC choices is ok. Legend LX. But a Titan LX will probably serve you just as well. STAY AWAY from Sherwood SR anything. The SR2 is supposedly an improvement over the SR1 (which was a total abortion) but I would not take the gamble. IMO, the Atomic is the best of the split fins...

Not to mention that some of the DVT's are noisy. The Aqualung ACD is not perfect either, but at least it is quiet.

Assuming that you are talking about the inlet filter, that one is easy to find and replace. There is another filter on older Sherwoods which is integral with the piston that can a greater problem. It is a scintered filter which is part of their rather unique air bleed system. I have tried...

Any competent Aqualung/Apeks dealer can service the Black Pearl. I agree that a bench test is probably all that is needed. In case you didn't know, the Black Pearl is nothing more than a garden variety Apeks ATX 200 with some added "bling", and priced for those who are into bling. It is a...

Neither of the Titans has a fully adjustable (breathing resistance knob) second stage. The plain Titan has a simple downstream unbalanced second, and the Titan LX has a balanced second which is the same as the older plain Legend. The adjustment knob can be added to the LX, but at ridiculous...

All of the XTX seconds are identical except for decal and the fact that the 40 and 20 do not have the breathing adjustment knob (which can easily be added) and the 20 does not have a heat sink at the hose.

Yes and AFAIK Catalina never used anything but 6061.

Fill it completely with air. Then fully submerge it in a bathtub, trash can or something similar and look for bubbles (they may be very small). You will know immediately not only if it is leaking, but where.

I know of no sane reason for the configuration as you received it. Your way will work fine. That is the way I have configured barrel first stages for more than 30 years.

That is an Australian Sea Hornet. Looks to be in good shape. The metal in the trigger mechanism is soft and parts can be difficult. It will last quite a while if you do not overload it.

I have never met Netdoc or Elena, but it sounds that they are really doing it right. I am especially impressed with the student learning nonsilting techniques and having to fill out a REEF survey.

That is the manufacturer's mantra since they have to worry about the idiots who are out there. People who service their own equipment (hopefully) do not have this concern. Personally, I use silicone for both internal and external O-rings--both dynamic and static and have for many years. For...

Are the Sherwood K-Valves currently being made in the US or are they imported? The reason I ask is that I recently purchased 4 Aluminum 80's (I already have a number, all with Sherwood valves) and on the first dive 2 of the Sherwood logos fell off. With the logos off, the finish is not at all...

Assuming that it is the VALVE o-ring (the one between the valve and the reg), I agree with Leadturn. If one is going to extrude (blow) it usually does it when the reg is first pressurized, or very shortly thereafter. A leaking O-ring at this location is very common and may happen at any time...