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SJ4000. I have been using mine for three years now. Waiting for it to flood so I can get a new one. :-D

It was mentioned that they were using slates to plan their ascent. Could it mean that they were making a makeshift deco schedule?

Some price reduction and pictures might help.

A light coat of silicone grease on the corroded areas. But be careful not to get any on the environmental or main diaphragm sealing faces. It seems to work on my regs and makes disassembly much easier. I tried Christolube before but it seems to do the opposite and actually retain water. Also...

Nope. No harm done. I just use the vinegar for heavily corroded parts. Just use soap/simple green and a soft bristled brush for the lightly corroded parts. Areas you should watch out for are the sealing surfaces and the HP crown.

+1 for Maxdive2007. I get my valve supplies from him/her. I live in SE Asia, so shipping is not that expensive.

It is a "crush" washer. Perhaps it expands/gets flattened during assembly? But that 2.2 mm difference in ID seems a bit too much to be explained by expansion. Maybe you can re-measure it come service time?

HOG's and other DST clones use a transparent plastic washer between the diaphragm and diaphragm clamp which the original Apeks ones do not use. Omitting this part can cause the main diaphragm to leak or even blow.

How reliable is your power supply? Here in the Philippines, most compressors at resorts (non-urban areas) run on gas or diesel. Easier to maintain/troubleshoot since these same machines are also powering generators and agricultural machinery.

Is 40 PSI enough?

Mine are all nice and straight right now. I can post a pic later when the Monsoon season peaks and I start servicing some of my 2nd stages.

The lever gets "out of plane". Try attaching the hose and jam nut with the faceplate open and you will see what I mean. Annoying as sh*t. Sometimes I give it a little "pre-twist" such that it levels when i finally tighten it. OTOH, it does not seem to affect performance. But the OC part of me...

Same as the old ones. Loose and the plastic flexes a little. In short, not good enough to prevent rotation of the air barrel when tightening the jam nut or hose fitting.

Is there an o-ring on the diaphragm clamp too? That should solve the problem with the corroded/stuck threads.

The medical O2 regulators do not even have user accessible O-rings.

A little bit OT. I work in a hospital. Another curiosity is that the way O2 medical cylinders and regulators are handled. They get treated with less respect than LPG/Propane cylinders over where I am from, but no accidents seem to happen. What is so special about the CGA 540 valves?

The DGX O2 valves are also not chrome plated on the surfaces that will be exposed to O2. Will that help?

If you can export it in PDF format, having it electronically signed will prevent any alteration. You can even restrict copying and printing.

Not much around Manila in Batangas and Puerto Galera. I do not know the situation in the Visayas.

Get a Perdix instead.