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There were *two* links there. Did you read the first? I included the second because it was very clear about what was happening as the fields collapsed. It's the higher voltage temporarily induced by the field collapse in the primary coil that's at issue when it comes to sparking across the...

Oh, no question. Everything is more difficult when you're shallow.

We can lead you further afield without much difficulty (grin). Just ask!

Oh, poo. You made me actually look it up. These folk and others disagree: How Ignition Systems Work https://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/how-capacitors-protect-ignition-circuits/ However, I had the sequence wrong. It's there to absorb the initial energy from the field collapsing, not the...

Technically true, but as you advance some courses will have minimum number of dives at minimum depth requirements. Best to look at that while you map your way. I had dozens of dives from 93-99' (most with bottoms of 100' or more, but I wasn't focused on "going as deep as possible"), and I...

Yes, a dwell meter can let you set pitted points properly. But as the plating is already shot (along with the condenser if it was the right size), it's a temporary fix at best. I thought the condensers were sized to absorb the remaining energy contained in the collapsing field in the ignition...

My point was that, even by the side of the road, it was easy to have a matchbook cover or IBM card at the time (both were pervasive back then), and knowing their thickness allowed measurement to something pretty close to spec. I'd be fascinated to learn how setting the points using dwell can...

Eyeballs: Good. Measurements: Better.

Point gap by the side of the road is 5 IBM cards or 2 matchbook covers. At 2 matchbook covers you *might* get a little ping under hard acceleration, but 5 IBM cards won't give you too much advance. With either an IBM card or a matchbook and a screwdriver, Bob wuz yer uncle.

Used to use those patterns ("cat's eyes") to align disc drive heads on 1970's era computers. With a 'scope displaying a Lissajous pattern and a Jacob's ladder made from a oil burner transformer and a couple of steel rods, you could have a horror movie set in a heartbeat!

Best bet: Find a shop that will let you try out all their fins in scuba gear in a pool. You don't have to be using the scuba gear, just have it on. Buy the ones that work the best. Try flutter, frog, and dolphin kicks. If you don't know them all, learn them first. Even then, the odds are...

I have a couple of scopes. I've been using them for a Long Time. I have no clue why one would be useful for diagnosing the average scooter. Can you elaborate?

You do know the difference between MechEs and CEs, right?

In conjunction decent dive planning software for Trimix (such as MultiDeco in Buhlmann mode) and appropriate conservatism adjustments to more or less match the software's schedule, with a backup air computer (acting as a bottom timer) and a laminated set of tables for Buhlmann, *I* would run a...

That is great news. Your asking price + $78 is still a good deal for a solid trimix computer. Unless it's $78 per PIN and you need a bunch of them. For mine there are five: C4 (Open and closed circuit Air, Nitrox, Trimix) C9 (External O2 Sensor Active) C11 (I/O Port Active) HDCOL (Color...

Every once in a while, my VR3 would lose its lunch, usually or perhaps always when the battery died in storage. To unlock its functions I would have to re-enter all the PINs. There is no way to display them, so if they're lost and the computer forgets them, you now have an air/nitrox computer...

For a trimix dive computer, this is a good deal, particularly for someone starting out. I have one I keep in case one my my Shearwaters dies. Worth pointing out a few things: - Unless I've missed something (I have an earlier version), it only does VPM. VPM kept me from getting bent for some...

While I never actually wound up ordering anything from you, thanks for being a resource to the community. I completely understand why you're done, thiough.

I won't vouch for your numbers, but in my opinion you are thinking about it the right way. With a good filter stack, the catalyst (Hopcalite or similar) should remove nearly all CO, turning it into CO2. CO2 has its own problems but they're not as bad as CO's problems. Nearly all my diving is...

I have tossed a few stages (mostly 2nds) that weren't worth fixing or for which I couldn't get parts. The now-spare firsts work great as tire fillers. But generally I agree with you. Most of my regs were bought used. The ones in service all work perfectly.